Bill Tanner"Spending the money quickly" iPosts: 261MI6 Agent
edited December 2005
Sorry to be a nuisance - you wait three years for some new information and then two pieces come along on consecutive days.
I just followed a link to some Dalton interviews which cast some more light on the clothing from his films. I've pasted them into the 2nd article, which you can jump to from here: http://www.ajb007.co.uk/articles/007/jamesbondclothing2/
...and roll down to the Dalton section.
Bill Tanner"Spending the money quickly" iPosts: 261MI6 Agent
A copy of a letter from Ian Fleming to the art director of Playboy is published in James Bond - The Man and His World.
It concerns the way that 007 should dress, right from the horses mouth and is interesting in some of the details that I don't recall being in the books:
To quote:
Wears two-button single-breasted suit in dark blue tropical worsted. Black leather belt.
White Sea Island cotton shirt, sleeveless.
Black casual shoes, square toed
Thin black knitted silk tie, no pin
Dark blue socks, cotton lisle.
No handkerchief in breast pocket
Wears Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch
I've been meaning to have a look at this for a while. There are a few contradictions that spring out: we are only told in the novels that his shoes are black moccasin-types with no laces ("Bond abhorred laces") so I'm surprised at the specific reference to his shoes being square-toed and not mentioning the laces at all.
Next we have the sleeveless shirts. The fact that Fleming had a predilection for these is a recent revelation to me, and one he certainly kept secret from his readers if this was also the intention for his character. Make of it what you will.
The lack of a handkerchief in the breast pocket: we know that Bond carries a handkerchief; it's been mentioned in a few of the books. Now we know that he carries it in his trousers.
Last point I'd highlight is the leather belt. Traditionally, this has been considered as slightly naff on a bespoke suit, which shouldn't need a belt at all, or even have belt loops (unless the customer specifically requests them). Perhaps Bond's "first expensive tailor" (Dr No) wasn't as good as he'd thought.
Taking the list as a whole, I'd point out that it was written in 1962, some 9 or 10 years after the first book was written. Fleming often contradicted the detail of his earlier books, or perhaps his taste had changed. Who knows?
superadoRegent's Park West (CaliforniaPosts: 2,656MI6 Agent
A copy of a letter from Ian Fleming to the art director of Playboy is published in James Bond - The Man and His World.
It concerns the way that 007 should dress, right from the horses mouth and is interesting in some of the details that I don't recall being in the books:
To quote:
Wears two-button single-breasted suit in dark blue tropical worsted. Black leather belt.
White Sea Island cotton shirt, sleeveless.
Black casual shoes, square toed
Thin black knitted silk tie, no pin
Dark blue socks, cotton lisle.
No handkerchief in breast pocket
Wears Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch
I've been meaning to have a look at this for a while. There are a few contradictions that spring out: we are only told in the novels that his shoes are black moccasin-types with no laces ("Bond abhorred laces") so I'm surprised at the specific reference to his shoes being square-toed and not mentioning the laces at all.
Next we have the sleeveless shirts. The fact that Fleming had a predilection for these is a recent revelation to me, and one he certainly kept secret from his readers if this was also the intention for his character. Make of it what you will.
The lack of a handkerchief in the breast pocket: we know that Bond carries a handkerchief; it's been mentioned in a few of the books. Now we know that he carries it in his trousers.
Last point I'd highlight is the leather belt. Traditionally, this has been considered as slightly naff on a bespoke suit, which shouldn't need a belt at all, or even have belt loops (unless the customer specifically requests them). Perhaps Bond's "first expensive tailor" (Dr No) wasn't as good as he'd thought.
Taking the list as a whole, I'd point out that it was written in 1962, some 9 or 10 years after the first book was written. Fleming often contradicted the detail of his earlier books, or perhaps his taste had changed. Who knows?
Yesterday, I stumbled across the reproduced image of the correspondence in question. It reinforces my own assumption that Fleming has a running image of Bond and his world and what we see in the novels are mere transcriptions of these, whether or not they happened to calibrate at those times is a different matter.
We now have more information about the location of Bond's vertical 3-inch scar, which begins downward from the right cheekbone, without which it could have otherwise been placed anywhere on Bond's right cheek.
Bond's height is also placed at 6'1", which is 183 cm rounded up to the nearest inch?
As I've relayed before, I was earlier advised that "moccasins" as used to describe a certain style of shoes during the 1950's did not resemble loafers that seems to be a logically closer match; instead, moccasins were ankle-length shoes with elastic to allow the feet to slip in.
About the leather belt, where else will Major Boothroyd incorporate the miniaturized cable and piton contraption?
On another related issue, do these support what's been written about Fleming wearing out his suits to the point of them becoming thread-bare?
For me, these "extra-canonical" bits of information, such as the bound notes Fleming compiled for each novel, make these speculations about Bond's world more fun. Also, to me this information is gravely relevant since much of my Bond related collectibles hobby oftentime depends on the smallest minutiae.
"...the purposeful slant of his striding figure looked dangerous, as if he was making quickly for something bad that was happening further down the street." -SMERSH on 007 dossier photo, Ch. 6 FRWL.....
Bill Tanner"Spending the money quickly" iPosts: 261MI6 Agent
As I've relayed before, I was earlier advised that "moccasins" as used to describe a certain style of shoes during the 1950's did not resemble loafers that seems to be a logically closer match; instead, moccasins were ankle-length shoes with elastic to allow the feet to slip in.
Think I missed this - I remember you asking the question a while back but don't think I saw a reply. Can you point me in the right direction to a link or the original posting?
Not wanting to dampen your enthusiasm, I had a quick look at the Savile Row Co. site, and have to say I'm a little dubious.
Yes, they have a premises on Savile Row, but if you read the small print you'll notice that the goods are actually dispatched from a factory in Londonderry. Also, the shirts they're selling seem to be 100% cotton - not the highly prized Sea Island variety. I also doubt the quality of construction, which is what you pay for with T&A: single needle stitching for the seams and a collar made up from separate layers (rather than fusing) giving that much-prized, gentle ruffled effect after a few washes.
The shirts are fine in themselves and will give the general look, but they're nothing particularly special that you couldn't buy in any high street retailer for the same price or cheaper. As for 'Savile Row' as a brand, that's another matter. The Row is an area of London where some of finest tailors in the world are located, it isn't any one, specific shop. Use of the name in a label strikes me as slightly spurious - especially when the clothing appears to be made elsewhere.
For Sea Island on a budget I'd recommend Charles Tyrwhitt: www.ctshirts.co.uk
I don't know about their construction (they conveniently omitted this information from their brochure) but at least the material is right.
Bill,
Yes, a good bit of what you said is true; however, depending on which Savile Row site you visited, they are made internaitonally and some in London. Yet, the idea that I was going for was that of the Savile Row label as listed on the Dr No script ("My tailor, Savile Row.") What I was clarifying is that it is a good shirt, and of a nice fabric, in the 'classics category' but I was thinking along the lines of, "Hey, this is Bondian!!!!"
For those who did not want to pay the $310 for the Turnbull and Asser shirt, this is a good place to turn to. Truth is, in a mall nearby where I live, they sell shirts at Joseph A. Bank for $50, and the Savile Row's starting at $30 is not a bad alternative to the expensive T&A.
Just a suggestion....
Oh yeah, and one more thing. I wear an Omega Seamaster Professional Series 300M Diver's Chronometer, as seen in DAD (beginning sequence) and it clearly shows the words "Omega" and the symbol. Yet again, if I am correct, Thunderball (when Bond arises from the water in his pink skivvies, after Domino gives the directions, he looks at his watch, near the end of the film). Well, I paused it on his watch, and with exception of the weird band on it (not an Omega), Bond is using the chronometer face of the Omega as his watch. Can you clarify, because their is some confusion, and Pierce Brosnan avoids the Rolex in his life and Bond films, and he picks up the Omega. Also, if you look carefully at the watchface on your Part IV, please note how close it is to an Omega, if not the real thing. All of these watches that I have seen are Omegas or are some close type. Please advise.
In James Bond: A report, OF Snelling wrote of Ian Fleming (Chapter 2, His Image - page 43 in my paperback edition):
"...he does wear blue, sea island shirts without sleeves (pure Bond), because'I cannot stand dirty shirt cuffs,' and he prefers casual shoes (also Bond, who can't bear shoe laces),..."
I'd always taken Bond to wearing short sleeved shirts too.
NightshooterIn bed with SolitairePosts: 2,917MI6 Agent
Wait, so what's up with the turnback cuff thing, then?
Bill Tanner"Spending the money quickly" iPosts: 261MI6 Agent
edited December 2005
Crikey, you take one day off and the questions really pile up.
Jones: Regarding the Savile Row thing - yes, you could regard this as a Bondian label as it's something mentioned in a 007 movie, but I can't help feeling that would be like buying a baseball cap with Aston Martin written on it. Ok, perhaps that's a bit of an extreme example.
Oh yeah, and one more thing. I wear an Omega Seamaster Professional Series 300M Diver's Chronometer, as seen in DAD (beginning sequence) and it clearly shows the words "Omega" and the symbol. Yet again, if I am correct, Thunderball (when Bond arises from the water in his pink skivvies, after Domino gives the directions, he looks at his watch, near the end of the film). Well, I paused it on his watch, and with exception of the weird band on it (not an Omega), Bond is using the chronometer face of the Omega as his watch. Can you clarify, because their is some confusion, and Pierce Brosnan avoids the Rolex in his life and Bond films, and he picks up the Omega. Also, if you look carefully at the watchface on your Part IV, please note how close it is to an Omega, if not the real thing. All of these watches that I have seen are Omegas or are some close type. Please advise.
I'm a bit confused as to your question. Connery wore Rolex Submariners (and at least one Breitling) throughout his tenure - no Omegas. They weren't introduced until the Brosnan era. For exact information on the individual Submariner model numbers and straps used, Donald Grant is the man to PM. His knowledge on the subject is impeccable. The Omega looks very similar to the Sub; no doubt why it was chosen. And yes, the watch in my photos is a Rolex Submariner of early nineties vintage (I'm hopeless on model numbers). I should know because it's my wrist and my watch.
In James Bond: A report, OF Snelling wrote of Ian Fleming (Chapter 2, His Image - page 43 in my paperback edition):
"...he does wear blue, sea island shirts without sleeves (pure Bond), because'I cannot stand dirty shirt cuffs,' and he prefers casual shoes (also Bond, who can't bear shoe laces),..."
I'd always taken Bond to wearing short sleeved shirts too.
Yes, I know the Snelling book well, and had seen this information a long time ago. Trouble is, this business of the short sleeved shirts with suits is never clarified in the Fleming novels and for some reason Snelling has got it into his head that Bond wears nothing but dark blue. Yes, it's mentioned that he prefers a dark blue, short sleeved shirt whilst off duty or in a hot climate, but with a suit we're always told that he prefers white, sometimes silk, and the cuffs, whether barrel, French, turnback or non-existent, are never mentioned. The fact that Fleming was so specific in mentioning the lack of shoelaces lead me to believe he would have mentioned Bond's aversion to dirty cuffs and lack of sleeves as it's quite a major sartorial faux pas, but perhaps Fleming just forgot. I don't know whether Snelling was taking his information from the same source as Chandler or from one of the many other contradictory interviews that Fleming gave.
Wait, so what's up with the turnback cuff thing, then?
The turnback cuffs were introduced by Terence Young for the first film in the series, Dr No in 1962. He used to buy his shirts from T&A, had a preference for this cuff style and thought it would suit the fledgling Connery.
They became a Bond trademark as they were used in every Bond film up to and including TMWTGG, as well as appearing (in modified form) in Connery's NSNA.
There's no mention of a turnback cuff in any of the Bond novels.
Bill Tanner is correct, Connery's Bond never wore an Omega. Connery's Bond wore an early version of the Rolex Submariner through most of his movies. The scene you are referring to is in Thunderball when Bond goes to the S.P.E.C.T.R.E. rendesvous point, swallows the radioactive pill, looks at his watch and then waits for the opposition to assemble before taking an operative out. The other watch that Connery wore, again in Thunderball, was a Breitling Top Time with a custom case design and doubled as a geiger counter.
DG
So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
Okay! Jesus, you guys are pounding my face in it. You guys are probably right, maybe COnnery did wear the Rolex Submariner. It is possible, the reason why I ask is that it is very close to the watchface on my Omega Seamaster Professional Series. Okay, fine, the reason why it threw me was that bracelet on the watch (SPECTRE rendevous point area in THunderball), because it looked like a cloth band.
You guys remind me of the rich people in D'Orcia restaurant talking about their wristwatches. "I wear a Rolex....and Jones only wears Omega. HMMMM...."
You guys remind me of the rich people in D'Orcia restaurant talking about their wristwatches. "I wear a Rolex....and Jones only wears Omega. HMMMM...."
Did not mean to rub your face in it. Not a bit of it. Just thought I could help clarify. I own an Omega Seamaster and love it. I'm a bit of a watch nut, so owning one watch is to me like courting one woman to some. I need variety. As for the cloth band, I have a theory on that.
Rolex made a military version of the Submariner. Until several years ago, it was believed that only the 5513 vintage Submariners had a military version with sword hands (instead of mercedes hands) a T in a circle on the dial for the presence of tritium, and a nylon strap. But now it is known that even the earliest Submariners, including Connery's Submariner had a military counterpart. Apart from the markings on the case back, the military version of Connery's Submariner differed from civilian version only in that it had a nylon strap. No other type of band could be fitted because the lug bars were permanently attached to the case ulike the civilian version with spring bars. The use of the nylon strap (usually olive drab or grey) by the Royal Navy, Royal Marines, Austrailian Navy and Canadian Navy served two purposes. First, the nylon strap was anti-reflective, and second it could be easily cut off in case of injury.
My theory is that the the Bond producers became aware of the military version of the Submariner, and decided to give Bond one. Since Bond has a naval background it was perfect, and to those in the know it projected the propper image. I don't believe that Connery's Submariner was a true military Submariner because you can see the lug holes on the sides of the watch case. On the military version you might have a circle where the fixed lug bars were sanded smooth, but there would be no indentation. In any case, I think the producers were trying to convey the look of a military Submariner and by extension give Bond a military bearing while out of uniform. Anyway this is just my theory.
DG
So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
NightshooterIn bed with SolitairePosts: 2,917MI6 Agent
Hey, DG, you seem like the right person to ask about this:
What's up with the Tudor Rolex Submariners?
Also, it's agreed that owning one watch is like courting one woman, in that one needs variety. I mean, as of now, I only have an Omega, but I'm hoping to branch out when I secure the necessary funds.
The Tudor Submariner is a very nice watch. It shares the same case as the Rolex Submariner, but has an ETA movement. There are vintage Tudor Submariners without crown guards including, from what I understand, the thick cased version. In effect the thick cased, no crown guard Tudor Submariner is essentialy the Connery version of the Submariner with an ETA movement and Tudor on the dial instead of Rolex. In case you did not know, Tudor is owned by Rolex.
DG
So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
I hope that Bill Tanner doesn't have to change much on his clothing features.
In fact, Sean Connery's shirts were obviously Turnbull and Asser, but While I was out of AJB, I did some more shopping at the Newest office of T$A in Beverly Hills, and guess what? I found the personal tailor for Sean Connery! I am not going to divuldge his name, but we will just call him Mr. Tailor. I managed to set up for a setting of some of my clothes, and later, we got to talking about Connery. He told me, and showed me pictures of him and Connery as a younger man (he looked different without make-up). Apparently, he also made all of the suits for Connery in DN, FRWL, and Thunderball. He did the suits for Connery, not a Savile Row tailor, but in their local Jermyn Street store. At first I did not believe him, but then he showed me some of the exact same fabrics that were on Connery's suits, and showed replicas (made to measures).
So, for those who say otherwise, i believe I jsut shot down the whole thing of Savile Row tailor, for the most of it. The SR tailor may have been true for GF and later pictures, but I also know that Brosnan had his latter wedding completely in the hands of another tialor in the NYC store.
Aren't you all glad that I get around. {:) cause I'm gonna hear it now!!!!
Hey
I was wondering if anyone would know what brand od swimwear did Bond wear in Thunderball. The logo can be seen in several scenes but I just don't know what it is, also the sunglasses that were worn when he was on the beach with Domino, you can see the brand logo but what is it. And if Mr. Tanner is going to read this I just want to ask, you mentioned that we wouldn't wear jeans but I do recall that in one novel Bond in fact did put on a pair of jeans, and also the windsor knot, its funny because in the very first film Bond wears that knot and in DAF he also wears it, so I guess it shoudn't be a such a topic.
Hey
I was wondering if anyone would know what brand od swimwear did Bond wear in Thunderball. The logo can be seen in several scenes but I just don't know what it is, also the sunglasses that were worn when he was on the beach with Domino, you can see the brand logo but what is it. And if Mr. Tanner is going to read this I just want to ask, you mentioned that we wouldn't wear jeans but I do recall that in one novel Bond in fact did put on a pair of jeans, and also the windsor knot, its funny because in the very first film Bond wears that knot and in DAF he also wears it, so I guess it shoudn't be a such a topic.
NightshooterIn bed with SolitairePosts: 2,917MI6 Agent
Weren't Connery's sunglasses in TB Ray-Ban's? Possibly the Wayfarer? I could be completely wrong, but that would be my guess.
I believe the swim trunks were Jantzen. The logo is of a diving board diver. Blue shirt with white logo was Fred Perry. White swim trunks unknown.
DG
So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
Bill Tanner"Spending the money quickly" iPosts: 261MI6 Agent
Actually, it was my mistake, his original tailor is not this Mr. Tailor, however, he did do his clothes from, I think Goldfinger, forward, and he is in either his late fifties or early sixties.
Also, because it is TURNBULL and ASSER, he keeps all of the favoured clothes b all celebs and hotshots, including royalties, on file, and if you walk into his store, though he did not handle the FRWL clothing, and want the suit Connery wore in FRWL, with the same fabric, he can look it up, and then make it for you.
I actually purchased the same suit that Connery worein THunderball, the dark grey one from the PTS, and had him make it from the exacting cut and materials as is Connery's.
BTW, I found out this info exclusively for Bill Tanner, where is he? Anyone know where Bill is?
Bill here. I don't visit as often these days - I grew tired of the anti-Craig squabbling and I'm trying to avoid spoilers for the new film.
Anyway, interesting report about the tailor you've found, though a little confusing. Michael Fish used to work for T&A in Jermyn St during the sixties and was responsible for at least some of Connery's original shirts. He later went on to set up his own shop called 'Mr Fish'. I don't recall seeing it on Jermyn St so I'm not sure that it's still there.
As for shooting down the whole Savile Row thing: none of the Bonds, literary or cinematic, was ever tailored in Savile Row. Fleming once had a jacket made at Huntsman (for which it's said he refused to pay). The myth seems to be entirely perpetuated by Connery's namecheck in Dr No. Connery's original tailor was Anthony Sinclair in Conduit St (just around the corner from the Row) and full details can be found in the Closet Spy series of articles.
Records seem to be a little hazy from Goldfinger onwards, and it's possible that several different tailors were used. Certainly in GF and DAF there have been claims that some American tailors were used.
Not sure why a tailor would be working for T&A (as opposed to a shirtmaker), unless the suit side of their business has grown in America; in the UK I think they just use local tailors.
Also not sure why you're keeping the name of your chap a secret, unless he asked you to do so. But in that case why doesn't he want the information broadcast? I'm not doubting that his claim might be true and I'd be glad to incorporate anything new into the articles, but at the moment all you're giving me is hearsay - anything firm to go on?
Bill Tanner"Spending the money quickly" iPosts: 261MI6 Agent
Just a quick note to let you all know that articles 2, 3 & 4 have undergone another editing process to incorporate some of the new information I've received over the last six months.
Nothing major, just adding to and tinkering with a few sections and attempting to clear up a few of the points that some readers seemed to have misinterpreted.
The Closet Spy Spy series was a great read, but I was hoping that some of you might have some input on formal wear. I'm planning to buy a tuxedo and was looking for suggestions to get that Bond sort of look. I searched through the archives and did see a thread on dress shirts for formal wear, but must admit some of the terminology went a bit over my head. As it stands now I'm planning to buy a standard black tuxedo for an upcoming event. I don't normally wear a tux, but I would like something in the closet that is ready for any future formal event that comes up. I'm not a fan of vests, so I'm planning to go with a cumberbun. What would be a wise choice for shoes? Will standard black dress shoes work or is it better to get the ones that typically (again forgive the lack of proper terminology) go with tuxedos? Is it wiser to go with a notch or wing label? Any advice on putting together a sharp looking formal outfit would be greatly appreciated. If anyone has any specific links for merchandise online as an example I'd love to see it. Thanks.
EDIT: Come to think of it, I could probably use some advice on the bow tie/cumberbun to get, as well as the cufflinks/studs. I haven't worn a tuxedo since my Senior Prom in high school, so I'm really out of the loop on this.
Bill Tanner"Spending the money quickly" iPosts: 261MI6 Agent
I didn't add a specific section to the series on evening wear, but maybe it's a good idea if there's enough interest.
Regarding some general rules for looking good (and avoiding the rented look) at black tie events:
As Hardy Amies always used to advise, 'black tie' means just that. Don't be tempted by a coloured or patterned variety – Bond always wears black and so should you. If you can get one that you tie yourself it will look even better (they're usually packaged with tying instructions).
Second most important thing is to avoid the wing collar. Again, Bond never wears one and they look particulary bad when you can see the metal clasp for the pre-tied bowtie. Wing collars are naff, avoid.
Next point is the shirt itself; if you can afford a proper dress shirt, go for it. A regular white shirt is ok, but the plain buttons and front spoil the overall look. If you’re buying a dress shirt you have several choices between a pleated front, a ‘pique’ pattern (a kind of waffle-like texture), ruffles and a few others. Bond has worn most of them over the years but the pleated or pique fronted versions have stood the test of time and always look good. I recently tried to buy a ‘heavy silk’ shirt as worn in the books, but it seems these are all but impossible to get these days (T&A quoted around £400 to make one up, but were still doubtful about the availability of the material).
Usually a good dress shirt will come with some form of black studs instead of buttons – again a good look that is very ‘Bondian’ and lifts the whole outfit above the level of the ‘rented it and couldn’t be bothered to buy a proper shirt’. If you’re going to attend more events you might like to upgrade the studs to more expensive versions later on. A dress shirt will require cufflinks and these should be subtle; black is good to match the studs, but as long as you avoid novelty items or anything too colourful it's all down to taste.
On to the suit. A real dinner suit will have double breasted lapels on a single breasted jacket (wider wings on the bottom halfs), or have the shawl collar with no notches (Connery in Dr No). I seem to remember that Moore also wore a double-breasted jacket from time to time, but they’re quite rare today. Most of the high street retailers will try to sell you their standard single breasted suit, with normal notched lapels, to which they’ve added a bit of satin. Try to seek out the correct version – it usually won’t cost any more than the chain store variety. If you’re on a budget or have an eye for a bargain, try the charity shops where you can often find several to choose from. They’re usually in excellent condition as they’re so rarely worn.
Also in the ‘naff’ category these days is the white dinner jacket – unless you’re going to a James Bond theme party perhaps.
Avoid wearing a belt with your suit, but braces (suspenders) are acceptable if you feel the need.
Cumberbunds: I tried one once but didn’t feel comfortable; it’s a matter of personal choice.
Vests or waistcoats: I like the idea of these as I think it gives a more bespoke look to the suit, but you rarely see them on off-the-peg dinner suits. Cinematic Bond has looked good with or without, so again, it’s up to you.
Shoes: few people are likely to fork out for a pair of black shoes that they will only wear with their dinner suit, so your most subtle black shoes will usually do. If you are planning to spend a little more you can go for some plain black oxford lace-ups or some lace-less variety for a smoother look. The so-called proper look is to go for a pair of patent (shiny) leather pumps with a subtle ribbon or tassle, but again I haven’t seen a pair at any of the functions I’ve attended for years. Perhaps I’m attending the wrong functions...
One final touch that gives the whole outfit a lift above the norm is to stuff a white silk handkerchief into your jacket breast pocket (folding it looks a bit too precious). It’s surprising how this simple touch improves the whole look and lifts it to a much more ‘Bondian’ level.
Hi, great entry. Wondering if you knew what kind of cufflinks James Bond typically wore. Was there a brand of cufflinks he wore more often? Thanks!
Bill Tanner"Spending the money quickly" iPosts: 261MI6 Agent
Hello jkro and welcome to AJB.
I covered the cufflinks in the Closet Spy feature articles (part 4 I think).
Sorry I can't post a link, but my cut'n'paste facility seems to have gone awry. Just look for the feature article section in the main menu and look for the Closet Spy series
Bill Tanner"Spending the money quickly" iPosts: 261MI6 Agent
edited January 2007
Paste now working, so...
Cufflinks:
Literary Bond would wear them only with evening dress, Connery and Moore occasionally wore them during the day and Brosnan seems to wear them all the time. Fleming's original Moonraker manuscript apparently credits Cartier for Bond's choice of links, though the recent films have gone for Dunhill. The shop isn't critical as there are many around the Bond St area that 007 might frequent - Tiffany are also good. There's no specific design which Bond favours, but as always go for something plain and discreet.
As a side note, there's been a fair amount of speculation on the 'three diamond clips' also mentioned in Moonraker. I can confirm the suspicion that these may have been ladies items purchased for his various girlfriends; he mentions buying one for another girl in the novel of FYEO.
Bill Tanner"Spending the money quickly" iPosts: 261MI6 Agent
Just a quick note to notify of a re-write (already!) to a chapter of the most recent article (5).
The chapter headed 'The Second Coming' has undergone some changes to acknowledge the contributions of the scriptwriters (sorry to have overlooked you first time, guys) and highlight the important Fleming-throwbacks in Bond's wardrobe attitudes.
About the cufflinks: the ones that DC wears in Casino Royale are from S.T. Dupont and are available for around $200. I saw a pair here in Amsterdam for euro 180 and am very tempted.... They're long, vector shaped, and have a very nice little 007 logo on the attaching backpart of the cufflink. They come in a special CR box.
The price for these CR ones (clearly visible in many scenes) is pretty reasonable, compared to other cufflinks from S.T. Dupont. The same store also has some old S.T. Dupont 007 cufflinks (more square, red stone in one end, with the PPK-gun effect, and they're around 225 euro, but these are never used in a movie, just have the 007 brand on it.
Comments
I just followed a link to some Dalton interviews which cast some more light on the clothing from his films. I've pasted them into the 2nd article, which you can jump to from here:
http://www.ajb007.co.uk/articles/007/jamesbondclothing2/
...and roll down to the Dalton section.
I've been meaning to have a look at this for a while. There are a few contradictions that spring out: we are only told in the novels that his shoes are black moccasin-types with no laces ("Bond abhorred laces") so I'm surprised at the specific reference to his shoes being square-toed and not mentioning the laces at all.
Next we have the sleeveless shirts. The fact that Fleming had a predilection for these is a recent revelation to me, and one he certainly kept secret from his readers if this was also the intention for his character. Make of it what you will.
The lack of a handkerchief in the breast pocket: we know that Bond carries a handkerchief; it's been mentioned in a few of the books. Now we know that he carries it in his trousers.
Last point I'd highlight is the leather belt. Traditionally, this has been considered as slightly naff on a bespoke suit, which shouldn't need a belt at all, or even have belt loops (unless the customer specifically requests them). Perhaps Bond's "first expensive tailor" (Dr No) wasn't as good as he'd thought.
Taking the list as a whole, I'd point out that it was written in 1962, some 9 or 10 years after the first book was written. Fleming often contradicted the detail of his earlier books, or perhaps his taste had changed. Who knows?
Yesterday, I stumbled across the reproduced image of the correspondence in question. It reinforces my own assumption that Fleming has a running image of Bond and his world and what we see in the novels are mere transcriptions of these, whether or not they happened to calibrate at those times is a different matter.
We now have more information about the location of Bond's vertical 3-inch scar, which begins downward from the right cheekbone, without which it could have otherwise been placed anywhere on Bond's right cheek.
Bond's height is also placed at 6'1", which is 183 cm rounded up to the nearest inch?
As I've relayed before, I was earlier advised that "moccasins" as used to describe a certain style of shoes during the 1950's did not resemble loafers that seems to be a logically closer match; instead, moccasins were ankle-length shoes with elastic to allow the feet to slip in.
About the leather belt, where else will Major Boothroyd incorporate the miniaturized cable and piton contraption?
On another related issue, do these support what's been written about Fleming wearing out his suits to the point of them becoming thread-bare?
For me, these "extra-canonical" bits of information, such as the bound notes Fleming compiled for each novel, make these speculations about Bond's world more fun. Also, to me this information is gravely relevant since much of my Bond related collectibles hobby oftentime depends on the smallest minutiae.
Think I missed this - I remember you asking the question a while back but don't think I saw a reply. Can you point me in the right direction to a link or the original posting?
Bill,
Yes, a good bit of what you said is true; however, depending on which Savile Row site you visited, they are made internaitonally and some in London. Yet, the idea that I was going for was that of the Savile Row label as listed on the Dr No script ("My tailor, Savile Row.") What I was clarifying is that it is a good shirt, and of a nice fabric, in the 'classics category' but I was thinking along the lines of, "Hey, this is Bondian!!!!"
For those who did not want to pay the $310 for the Turnbull and Asser shirt, this is a good place to turn to. Truth is, in a mall nearby where I live, they sell shirts at Joseph A. Bank for $50, and the Savile Row's starting at $30 is not a bad alternative to the expensive T&A.
Just a suggestion....
Oh yeah, and one more thing. I wear an Omega Seamaster Professional Series 300M Diver's Chronometer, as seen in DAD (beginning sequence) and it clearly shows the words "Omega" and the symbol. Yet again, if I am correct, Thunderball (when Bond arises from the water in his pink skivvies, after Domino gives the directions, he looks at his watch, near the end of the film). Well, I paused it on his watch, and with exception of the weird band on it (not an Omega), Bond is using the chronometer face of the Omega as his watch. Can you clarify, because their is some confusion, and Pierce Brosnan avoids the Rolex in his life and Bond films, and he picks up the Omega. Also, if you look carefully at the watchface on your Part IV, please note how close it is to an Omega, if not the real thing. All of these watches that I have seen are Omegas or are some close type. Please advise.
Also, the watch shown in that article is a Rolex Submariner.
@Bill Tanner - re shoes and sleeveless shirts:
In James Bond: A report, OF Snelling wrote of Ian Fleming (Chapter 2, His Image - page 43 in my paperback edition):
"...he does wear blue, sea island shirts without sleeves (pure Bond), because'I cannot stand dirty shirt cuffs,' and he prefers casual shoes (also Bond, who can't bear shoe laces),..."
I'd always taken Bond to wearing short sleeved shirts too.
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Jones: Regarding the Savile Row thing - yes, you could regard this as a Bondian label as it's something mentioned in a 007 movie, but I can't help feeling that would be like buying a baseball cap with Aston Martin written on it. Ok, perhaps that's a bit of an extreme example.
I'm a bit confused as to your question. Connery wore Rolex Submariners (and at least one Breitling) throughout his tenure - no Omegas. They weren't introduced until the Brosnan era. For exact information on the individual Submariner model numbers and straps used, Donald Grant is the man to PM. His knowledge on the subject is impeccable. The Omega looks very similar to the Sub; no doubt why it was chosen. And yes, the watch in my photos is a Rolex Submariner of early nineties vintage (I'm hopeless on model numbers). I should know because it's my wrist and my watch.
Yes, I know the Snelling book well, and had seen this information a long time ago. Trouble is, this business of the short sleeved shirts with suits is never clarified in the Fleming novels and for some reason Snelling has got it into his head that Bond wears nothing but dark blue. Yes, it's mentioned that he prefers a dark blue, short sleeved shirt whilst off duty or in a hot climate, but with a suit we're always told that he prefers white, sometimes silk, and the cuffs, whether barrel, French, turnback or non-existent, are never mentioned. The fact that Fleming was so specific in mentioning the lack of shoelaces lead me to believe he would have mentioned Bond's aversion to dirty cuffs and lack of sleeves as it's quite a major sartorial faux pas, but perhaps Fleming just forgot. I don't know whether Snelling was taking his information from the same source as Chandler or from one of the many other contradictory interviews that Fleming gave.
The turnback cuffs were introduced by Terence Young for the first film in the series, Dr No in 1962. He used to buy his shirts from T&A, had a preference for this cuff style and thought it would suit the fledgling Connery.
They became a Bond trademark as they were used in every Bond film up to and including TMWTGG, as well as appearing (in modified form) in Connery's NSNA.
There's no mention of a turnback cuff in any of the Bond novels.
Bill Tanner is correct, Connery's Bond never wore an Omega. Connery's Bond wore an early version of the Rolex Submariner through most of his movies. The scene you are referring to is in Thunderball when Bond goes to the S.P.E.C.T.R.E. rendesvous point, swallows the radioactive pill, looks at his watch and then waits for the opposition to assemble before taking an operative out. The other watch that Connery wore, again in Thunderball, was a Breitling Top Time with a custom case design and doubled as a geiger counter.
DG
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
You guys remind me of the rich people in D'Orcia restaurant talking about their wristwatches. "I wear a Rolex....and Jones only wears Omega. HMMMM...."
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Did not mean to rub your face in it. Not a bit of it. Just thought I could help clarify. I own an Omega Seamaster and love it. I'm a bit of a watch nut, so owning one watch is to me like courting one woman to some. I need variety. As for the cloth band, I have a theory on that.
Rolex made a military version of the Submariner. Until several years ago, it was believed that only the 5513 vintage Submariners had a military version with sword hands (instead of mercedes hands) a T in a circle on the dial for the presence of tritium, and a nylon strap. But now it is known that even the earliest Submariners, including Connery's Submariner had a military counterpart. Apart from the markings on the case back, the military version of Connery's Submariner differed from civilian version only in that it had a nylon strap. No other type of band could be fitted because the lug bars were permanently attached to the case ulike the civilian version with spring bars. The use of the nylon strap (usually olive drab or grey) by the Royal Navy, Royal Marines, Austrailian Navy and Canadian Navy served two purposes. First, the nylon strap was anti-reflective, and second it could be easily cut off in case of injury.
My theory is that the the Bond producers became aware of the military version of the Submariner, and decided to give Bond one. Since Bond has a naval background it was perfect, and to those in the know it projected the propper image. I don't believe that Connery's Submariner was a true military Submariner because you can see the lug holes on the sides of the watch case. On the military version you might have a circle where the fixed lug bars were sanded smooth, but there would be no indentation. In any case, I think the producers were trying to convey the look of a military Submariner and by extension give Bond a military bearing while out of uniform. Anyway this is just my theory.
DG
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
What's up with the Tudor Rolex Submariners?
Also, it's agreed that owning one watch is like courting one woman, in that one needs variety. I mean, as of now, I only have an Omega, but I'm hoping to branch out when I secure the necessary funds.
The Tudor Submariner is a very nice watch. It shares the same case as the Rolex Submariner, but has an ETA movement. There are vintage Tudor Submariners without crown guards including, from what I understand, the thick cased version. In effect the thick cased, no crown guard Tudor Submariner is essentialy the Connery version of the Submariner with an ETA movement and Tudor on the dial instead of Rolex. In case you did not know, Tudor is owned by Rolex.
DG
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
I hope that Bill Tanner doesn't have to change much on his clothing features.
In fact, Sean Connery's shirts were obviously Turnbull and Asser, but While I was out of AJB, I did some more shopping at the Newest office of T$A in Beverly Hills, and guess what? I found the personal tailor for Sean Connery! I am not going to divuldge his name, but we will just call him Mr. Tailor. I managed to set up for a setting of some of my clothes, and later, we got to talking about Connery. He told me, and showed me pictures of him and Connery as a younger man (he looked different without make-up). Apparently, he also made all of the suits for Connery in DN, FRWL, and Thunderball. He did the suits for Connery, not a Savile Row tailor, but in their local Jermyn Street store. At first I did not believe him, but then he showed me some of the exact same fabrics that were on Connery's suits, and showed replicas (made to measures).
So, for those who say otherwise, i believe I jsut shot down the whole thing of Savile Row tailor, for the most of it. The SR tailor may have been true for GF and later pictures, but I also know that Brosnan had his latter wedding completely in the hands of another tialor in the NYC store.
Aren't you all glad that I get around. {:) cause I'm gonna hear it now!!!!
I was wondering if anyone would know what brand od swimwear did Bond wear in Thunderball. The logo can be seen in several scenes but I just don't know what it is, also the sunglasses that were worn when he was on the beach with Domino, you can see the brand logo but what is it. And if Mr. Tanner is going to read this I just want to ask, you mentioned that we wouldn't wear jeans but I do recall that in one novel Bond in fact did put on a pair of jeans, and also the windsor knot, its funny because in the very first film Bond wears that knot and in DAF he also wears it, so I guess it shoudn't be a such a topic.
I was wondering if anyone would know what brand od swimwear did Bond wear in Thunderball. The logo can be seen in several scenes but I just don't know what it is, also the sunglasses that were worn when he was on the beach with Domino, you can see the brand logo but what is it. And if Mr. Tanner is going to read this I just want to ask, you mentioned that we wouldn't wear jeans but I do recall that in one novel Bond in fact did put on a pair of jeans, and also the windsor knot, its funny because in the very first film Bond wears that knot and in DAF he also wears it, so I guess it shoudn't be a such a topic.
DG
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
Bill here. I don't visit as often these days - I grew tired of the anti-Craig squabbling and I'm trying to avoid spoilers for the new film.
Anyway, interesting report about the tailor you've found, though a little confusing. Michael Fish used to work for T&A in Jermyn St during the sixties and was responsible for at least some of Connery's original shirts. He later went on to set up his own shop called 'Mr Fish'. I don't recall seeing it on Jermyn St so I'm not sure that it's still there.
As for shooting down the whole Savile Row thing: none of the Bonds, literary or cinematic, was ever tailored in Savile Row. Fleming once had a jacket made at Huntsman (for which it's said he refused to pay). The myth seems to be entirely perpetuated by Connery's namecheck in Dr No. Connery's original tailor was Anthony Sinclair in Conduit St (just around the corner from the Row) and full details can be found in the Closet Spy series of articles.
Records seem to be a little hazy from Goldfinger onwards, and it's possible that several different tailors were used. Certainly in GF and DAF there have been claims that some American tailors were used.
Not sure why a tailor would be working for T&A (as opposed to a shirtmaker), unless the suit side of their business has grown in America; in the UK I think they just use local tailors.
Also not sure why you're keeping the name of your chap a secret, unless he asked you to do so. But in that case why doesn't he want the information broadcast? I'm not doubting that his claim might be true and I'd be glad to incorporate anything new into the articles, but at the moment all you're giving me is hearsay - anything firm to go on?
Nothing major, just adding to and tinkering with a few sections and attempting to clear up a few of the points that some readers seemed to have misinterpreted.
EDIT: Come to think of it, I could probably use some advice on the bow tie/cumberbun to get, as well as the cufflinks/studs. I haven't worn a tuxedo since my Senior Prom in high school, so I'm really out of the loop on this.
Regarding some general rules for looking good (and avoiding the rented look) at black tie events:
As Hardy Amies always used to advise, 'black tie' means just that. Don't be tempted by a coloured or patterned variety – Bond always wears black and so should you. If you can get one that you tie yourself it will look even better (they're usually packaged with tying instructions).
Second most important thing is to avoid the wing collar. Again, Bond never wears one and they look particulary bad when you can see the metal clasp for the pre-tied bowtie. Wing collars are naff, avoid.
Next point is the shirt itself; if you can afford a proper dress shirt, go for it. A regular white shirt is ok, but the plain buttons and front spoil the overall look. If you’re buying a dress shirt you have several choices between a pleated front, a ‘pique’ pattern (a kind of waffle-like texture), ruffles and a few others. Bond has worn most of them over the years but the pleated or pique fronted versions have stood the test of time and always look good. I recently tried to buy a ‘heavy silk’ shirt as worn in the books, but it seems these are all but impossible to get these days (T&A quoted around £400 to make one up, but were still doubtful about the availability of the material).
Usually a good dress shirt will come with some form of black studs instead of buttons – again a good look that is very ‘Bondian’ and lifts the whole outfit above the level of the ‘rented it and couldn’t be bothered to buy a proper shirt’. If you’re going to attend more events you might like to upgrade the studs to more expensive versions later on. A dress shirt will require cufflinks and these should be subtle; black is good to match the studs, but as long as you avoid novelty items or anything too colourful it's all down to taste.
On to the suit. A real dinner suit will have double breasted lapels on a single breasted jacket (wider wings on the bottom halfs), or have the shawl collar with no notches (Connery in Dr No). I seem to remember that Moore also wore a double-breasted jacket from time to time, but they’re quite rare today. Most of the high street retailers will try to sell you their standard single breasted suit, with normal notched lapels, to which they’ve added a bit of satin. Try to seek out the correct version – it usually won’t cost any more than the chain store variety. If you’re on a budget or have an eye for a bargain, try the charity shops where you can often find several to choose from. They’re usually in excellent condition as they’re so rarely worn.
Also in the ‘naff’ category these days is the white dinner jacket – unless you’re going to a James Bond theme party perhaps.
Avoid wearing a belt with your suit, but braces (suspenders) are acceptable if you feel the need.
Cumberbunds: I tried one once but didn’t feel comfortable; it’s a matter of personal choice.
Vests or waistcoats: I like the idea of these as I think it gives a more bespoke look to the suit, but you rarely see them on off-the-peg dinner suits. Cinematic Bond has looked good with or without, so again, it’s up to you.
Shoes: few people are likely to fork out for a pair of black shoes that they will only wear with their dinner suit, so your most subtle black shoes will usually do. If you are planning to spend a little more you can go for some plain black oxford lace-ups or some lace-less variety for a smoother look. The so-called proper look is to go for a pair of patent (shiny) leather pumps with a subtle ribbon or tassle, but again I haven’t seen a pair at any of the functions I’ve attended for years. Perhaps I’m attending the wrong functions...
One final touch that gives the whole outfit a lift above the norm is to stuff a white silk handkerchief into your jacket breast pocket (folding it looks a bit too precious). It’s surprising how this simple touch improves the whole look and lifts it to a much more ‘Bondian’ level.
Good luck,
Bill.
I covered the cufflinks in the Closet Spy feature articles (part 4 I think).
Sorry I can't post a link, but my cut'n'paste facility seems to have gone awry. Just look for the feature article section in the main menu and look for the Closet Spy series
Cufflinks:
Literary Bond would wear them only with evening dress, Connery and Moore occasionally wore them during the day and Brosnan seems to wear them all the time. Fleming's original Moonraker manuscript apparently credits Cartier for Bond's choice of links, though the recent films have gone for Dunhill. The shop isn't critical as there are many around the Bond St area that 007 might frequent - Tiffany are also good. There's no specific design which Bond favours, but as always go for something plain and discreet.
As a side note, there's been a fair amount of speculation on the 'three diamond clips' also mentioned in Moonraker. I can confirm the suspicion that these may have been ladies items purchased for his various girlfriends; he mentions buying one for another girl in the novel of FYEO.
You can read the full article here:
http://www.ajb007.co.uk/articles/007/jamesbondclothing4/
The chapter headed 'The Second Coming' has undergone some changes to acknowledge the contributions of the scriptwriters (sorry to have overlooked you first time, guys) and highlight the important Fleming-throwbacks in Bond's wardrobe attitudes.
The price for these CR ones (clearly visible in many scenes) is pretty reasonable, compared to other cufflinks from S.T. Dupont. The same store also has some old S.T. Dupont 007 cufflinks (more square, red stone in one end, with the PPK-gun effect, and they're around 225 euro, but these are never used in a movie, just have the 007 brand on it.
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