What? No! Roger Moore would transport himself in either an Aston Martin, or maybe at his current age a Broadspeed tuned jáág like Steed.? (yes, I háve watched that TopGear episode ) )
Turning back a couple of posts. The Impala rear lights are straight it is the printed detail on the lights - some kind of decorative pattern - that is wonky I guess. At least it is on mine.
I did notice the Impala rear light decals seemed a bit wonky on the close-up.Mine appear to be better.Anybody get annoyed by the greasy fingerprints/film left on some models?If they look too bad,I have to clean them up.I think I must suffer from OCD.
you don't suffer from anything, My models have that as well and I can't stand it either . the top of my Caddy hearse was almost shiny from all the fingerprints...
Here is a few pictures of the Impala. I like it, being in the uk I am not sure how good it is compared to the real thing with it being a yank tank . I am going to try and source some alligators for it.
The old tail-lights don't look too straight????? -{ :007)
On another note, models 106 & 107 were shown on the Bissett website as planned for despatch on 5 August. Today the information changed and it says they should be despatched on 19 August. That's a 2-week delay and about 6 weeks since the last installment. Bissett actually called me (without being asked) to apologise and explain that they were waiting for one more model to arrive (presumably 107, as I already saw 106 - Ford Consul at a newsagent's). Looks like we may be entering a distribution bottleneck, probably because of catching up with the UK where the majority of subscriptions are.
Cheers for the info Jag. Hopefully they arrive Monday as I leave for a 3 month trip then. I'd like to make sure they are in A1 condition before I go. Did they say anything about the Aus extension?
Four days after the despatch date was changed, Bisset is still saying that 106 and 107 are scheduled to be sent out on 19/08/11. So that is now an almost 3-week delay. And at the same time subscribers in WA (which is the collection started early already had 107 despatched. Looks like Bissett's run our of models! Sorry Dickiebart, you may have to wait for 3 months before you see your models...
The tail lights are indeed a bit crooked with regard to the printed part. Not a huge deal. I'm more concerned with how they did the rear window on the '73 Impala Custom Coupe (something I'm probably going to have to see in person...), which has sort of a weird slant look to it in real life. The lights up front are crooked, sure, but that's a super-easy fix. Just unscrew the base, poke them out, and re-attach them. Problem gone!
There really seems to be only one genuine error that I can make out from the photos so kindly provided by Diecast007: on the front bumper, the two grille slits are squared off on all four sides. In real life, they were rounded on the lower inside corners. The top portion of the bumper itself might also be just a tad too thick, but I'd literally have to have it in my hand to tell. Superb job done on the actual logos, though. The side mirror is also shaped correctly...this was an issue on the prototypes we saw as factory rejects, which seem to have had more rounded mirrors.
As for the fingerprints, remove them using hot water and a soft-bristled toothbrush. Not TOO hot since the prints generally show up on plastic and the last thing you want to do is melt the plastic, but it's that simple. Some disassembly may be needed if your glue stains are inside the car. IMMEDIATELY dry the car out to prevent it from rusting, though. Also make sure your toothbrush won't harm plastic finishes. You could practice on scrap pieces or even broken cars!
Both the tailights and headlights are easy to fix, as well as the fingermarks. A bit of fine polishing compound may be necessary - toothbrushes may scratch some surfaces, and hot water may dull some clear plastics, so it's safer to use a soft cloth. The result will probably look much better than a perfect factory specimen, due to extra shine!
The issue is, however, that most of us are paying a full price for the collection, so we should not accept anything but perfect models. If they were selling them at half price then I would have absolutely no complaints about having to fix crooked lights. This is something that quality control should check at the factory. If Fabbri want us to do their job, fine, but we should get paid for it!
I agree about a polishing compound also working and probably being even better than hot water (unless it's your intent to dull the plastic), though by "soft-bristled" toothbrush, I'm thinking the kind you see for sale to people with really sensitive teeth where they have rounded ends and REALLY soft bristles...softer than most paintbrushes, I may add. You may need to go to a dental supply store to get these...our local drug store doesn't stock them. However, they have worked for me better than a rag (although if you do use a rag, an old sock or torn sweater is generally best because the weave picks up so much). Your mileage may vary!
Also, the tail lights on Diecast007's car are not possible to fix. The designs were stamped on wrong/slightly slanted too much.
If they were selling them at half price then I would have absolutely no complaints about having to fix crooked lights. This is something that quality control should check at the factory.
Welcome to the wonderful world of Ixo partwork headlights. In every partwork save the two Atlas DDR collections (both cars and trucks)...so long as the headlights have ribs on them, they WILL be crooked. If there's no ribbing, then the light is fine, but otherwise? It's crooked. I've literally yet to see ONE example with headlights where the ribbing is perfectly straight up and down. It's Ixo's one and only partwork-wide defect if you ask me.
My dentist told me a long time ago that you should always go for the softest bristles on your tootbrush that you can get, and I have only used the ultra-soft kind since. Anything harder than soft is apparently harmful to the enamel and only suitable for dentures. Any dentist collectors here who can corroborate that? )
You are probably right about the detail stamped wrong on the taillight, though if I were to get such a model at half-price, I would not complain, and I still think it could be corrected, with the help of some clear epoxy glue and clear red Tamiya paint. Would just take longer to do the job!
I would have to check my previous Ixo JBCC models, but I am very particular about the lights and do not recall having to correct them so far (perhaps like you say they were not ribbed?).
The rear lights can't easily be corrected. The pattern is tampo printed in white onto the red plastic lenses. The tampo printing is crooked. Sure the pattern could be removed but then one would face putting it back again. As far as part work quality is concerned that is one of the corners part works cut to keep prices down. IXO and others apply higher quality standards to models in full price ranges such as the Museum Series than they do to part work models. Faults that would lead to a model being scrapped on the full price ranges are let through on part works. Fabbri themselves wouldnt pay for higher QC standards since it would increase unit costs. Well unless we all always demanded replacement of every model with a fault.........
I read that Roger Moorw drives a Renault 5, and is not a big car fan in general. I saw him in the South of France about 6 years ago driving a c.1990 VW Golf Convertible, with 4 other people in the car.
As an aside, a friend of mine met him in a restaurant last summer, and asked him for his autograph - he signed one for him, was apparently an absolute gentleman, and now the autograph is framed and hanging in my friend's house. They say you should never meet your heroes, but it seems Roger Moore is just as you would hope he would be.
I would have to check my previous Ixo JBCC models, but I am very particular about the lights and do not recall having to correct them so far (perhaps like you say they were not ribbed?).
Check out the ZIL-117, Ford Country Squire, and Ford Consul (also the Econoline, but I don't believe you have that in Australia yet...it's difficult to see, but MovieCarFan posted pics of one [not his own] a while back where it actually had one straight headlight and one crooked one...). The Ford Bronco II's lights will be correct without exception because they're squared off/can't be put in crooked. Likewise the Ford Crown Vic. Both of the hearses' headlights lack ribbing. I can't speak for the Range Rover Convertible because so far, it's the only Ixo car I'm missing.
As far as part work quality is concerned that is one of the corners part works cut to keep prices down. IXO and others apply higher quality standards to models in full price ranges such as the Museum Series than they do to part work models. Faults that would lead to a model being scrapped on the full price ranges are let through on part works.
Absolutely correct. They can't turn a profit otherwise, unless they actually say "well, we're going to make an expensive, slowly-issued partwork and you've been warned" a la what they did and are doing with Atlas DDR Auto-Kollektion and Atlas DDR Trucks, respectively. The model quality there is actually just as good as Ixo Classic, Ixo Museum, or Ist Models (and prices...much to the detriment of the thrifty among us...reflect it, too!). Likewise, many Ixo partworks lack painted interiors, although that's easily corrected (and quite fun to do!). Still, for the most part, other than the headlights and the lack of painted interiors (although they averted this with the French Cars series and probably will avert it from about Issue 6 onward with the Russian partwork Avtomobili na Sluzhba as well as the JBCC), plus the aforementioned glue stains (almost without exception on the windows), even the cheapest Ixo partworks generally don't cut too many corners.
My Ford Country Squire is being replaced due to being received damaged, so I don't even remember looking at its lights, and the Ford Consul is due to arrive in the next delivery, which has been delayed by almost 3 weeks now. Maybe they are working on getting the lights right???
The Econoline is not here either. So it looks like I have not had that much opportunity to experience Ixo's crooked lights.
Out of interest... what's the official price of the DDR partwork models?
Out of interest... what's the official price of the DDR partwork models?
I think the cars are about 15 EUR each and the trucks are closer to closer to 20 EUR. You do indeed get what you pay for, though...they're top notch models and could easily pass for Ist.
As a matter of fact, I almost always ask for a replacement when I receive a model with a fault.
How much slack do people on the forum generally give Fabbri when it comes to faulty models? I tend to accept some faults such as ill-fitting components (like rear screens sometimes projecting out for instance) on the assumption it's a problem they all have, whereas I won't stand for clumsy blobs of touch up paint where the model has been chipped.
What's the worst fault found? - and I wonder who's the fussiest amongst us? :v
As a matter of fact, I almost always ask for a replacement when I receive a model with a fault.
How much slack do people on the forum generally give Fabbri when it comes to faulty models? I tend to accept some faults such as ill-fitting components (like rear screens sometimes projecting out for instance) on the assumption it's a problem they all have, whereas I won't stand for clumsy blobs of touch up paint where the model has been chipped.
What's the worst fault found? - and I wonder who's the fussiest amongst us? :v
I have been really lucky I think with my models. Only one real issue with the BMW Z3 GE, The model must have been caught under something heavy as the box was smashed and model partially crushed. I reported to GEFabbri and model was replaced. I now get my models in a cardboard box and no issues since then. I tend to be less critical of the models re straight lights etc etc, as they are models and except that all cannot be perfect. When I posted the pictures of the impala i genuinely believed it was a good model of the real car but having read the response it obviously isn't but generally I find the manufacturing quality of these acceptable with little or nothing to complain about. The Blunderbird is different as it is a blatant rehash of an existing issue.
Comments
Naw!!! I think Bond should stick to a British car
Why??? We still have the Sinclair C5...Coupe!!!
Or, what about this?
I'll shut up now :007)
Anyway, on with the Modelcars...
I am truly shocked at the level of disrespect you two have shown towards our Sir Roger.
And for your information he now drives a walking frame with retractable machine guns - this will be issue number 131.
And neither do the front lights!
Four days after the despatch date was changed, Bisset is still saying that 106 and 107 are scheduled to be sent out on 19/08/11. So that is now an almost 3-week delay. And at the same time subscribers in WA (which is the collection started early already had 107 despatched. Looks like Bissett's run our of models! Sorry Dickiebart, you may have to wait for 3 months before you see your models...
There really seems to be only one genuine error that I can make out from the photos so kindly provided by Diecast007: on the front bumper, the two grille slits are squared off on all four sides. In real life, they were rounded on the lower inside corners. The top portion of the bumper itself might also be just a tad too thick, but I'd literally have to have it in my hand to tell. Superb job done on the actual logos, though. The side mirror is also shaped correctly...this was an issue on the prototypes we saw as factory rejects, which seem to have had more rounded mirrors.
As for the fingerprints, remove them using hot water and a soft-bristled toothbrush. Not TOO hot since the prints generally show up on plastic and the last thing you want to do is melt the plastic, but it's that simple. Some disassembly may be needed if your glue stains are inside the car. IMMEDIATELY dry the car out to prevent it from rusting, though. Also make sure your toothbrush won't harm plastic finishes. You could practice on scrap pieces or even broken cars!
The issue is, however, that most of us are paying a full price for the collection, so we should not accept anything but perfect models. If they were selling them at half price then I would have absolutely no complaints about having to fix crooked lights. This is something that quality control should check at the factory. If Fabbri want us to do their job, fine, but we should get paid for it!
Also, the tail lights on Diecast007's car are not possible to fix. The designs were stamped on wrong/slightly slanted too much.
Welcome to the wonderful world of Ixo partwork headlights. In every partwork save the two Atlas DDR collections (both cars and trucks)...so long as the headlights have ribs on them, they WILL be crooked. If there's no ribbing, then the light is fine, but otherwise? It's crooked. I've literally yet to see ONE example with headlights where the ribbing is perfectly straight up and down. It's Ixo's one and only partwork-wide defect if you ask me.
You are probably right about the detail stamped wrong on the taillight, though if I were to get such a model at half-price, I would not complain, and I still think it could be corrected, with the help of some clear epoxy glue and clear red Tamiya paint. Would just take longer to do the job!
I would have to check my previous Ixo JBCC models, but I am very particular about the lights and do not recall having to correct them so far (perhaps like you say they were not ribbed?).
As an aside, a friend of mine met him in a restaurant last summer, and asked him for his autograph - he signed one for him, was apparently an absolute gentleman, and now the autograph is framed and hanging in my friend's house. They say you should never meet your heroes, but it seems Roger Moore is just as you would hope he would be.
Check out the ZIL-117, Ford Country Squire, and Ford Consul (also the Econoline, but I don't believe you have that in Australia yet...it's difficult to see, but MovieCarFan posted pics of one [not his own] a while back where it actually had one straight headlight and one crooked one...). The Ford Bronco II's lights will be correct without exception because they're squared off/can't be put in crooked. Likewise the Ford Crown Vic. Both of the hearses' headlights lack ribbing. I can't speak for the Range Rover Convertible because so far, it's the only Ixo car I'm missing.
Absolutely correct. They can't turn a profit otherwise, unless they actually say "well, we're going to make an expensive, slowly-issued partwork and you've been warned" a la what they did and are doing with Atlas DDR Auto-Kollektion and Atlas DDR Trucks, respectively. The model quality there is actually just as good as Ixo Classic, Ixo Museum, or Ist Models (and prices...much to the detriment of the thrifty among us...reflect it, too!). Likewise, many Ixo partworks lack painted interiors, although that's easily corrected (and quite fun to do!). Still, for the most part, other than the headlights and the lack of painted interiors (although they averted this with the French Cars series and probably will avert it from about Issue 6 onward with the Russian partwork Avtomobili na Sluzhba as well as the JBCC), plus the aforementioned glue stains (almost without exception on the windows), even the cheapest Ixo partworks generally don't cut too many corners.
With Ixo partwork headlights...let's just say you'll be asking for an awfully long time before they get the ribbing straight...
The Econoline is not here either. So it looks like I have not had that much opportunity to experience Ixo's crooked lights.
Out of interest... what's the official price of the DDR partwork models?
I think the cars are about 15 EUR each and the trucks are closer to closer to 20 EUR. You do indeed get what you pay for, though...they're top notch models and could easily pass for Ist.
How much slack do people on the forum generally give Fabbri when it comes to faulty models? I tend to accept some faults such as ill-fitting components (like rear screens sometimes projecting out for instance) on the assumption it's a problem they all have, whereas I won't stand for clumsy blobs of touch up paint where the model has been chipped.
What's the worst fault found? - and I wonder who's the fussiest amongst us? :v
I have been really lucky I think with my models. Only one real issue with the BMW Z3 GE, The model must have been caught under something heavy as the box was smashed and model partially crushed. I reported to GEFabbri and model was replaced. I now get my models in a cardboard box and no issues since then. I tend to be less critical of the models re straight lights etc etc, as they are models and except that all cannot be perfect. When I posted the pictures of the impala i genuinely believed it was a good model of the real car but having read the response it obviously isn't but generally I find the manufacturing quality of these acceptable with little or nothing to complain about. The Blunderbird is different as it is a blatant rehash of an existing issue.