No newsagents here stock them. They'll order them in but you get no choice then. If all 3 have wipers at that angle suspect that it is deliberate - have you already got one with wipers at different angle?
So all those with Savoys out there - what angle are your wipers at? Is this a batch 2 feature or a general one??
Get 2 ( of the same) models from Forbidden Planet,Bristol, UK and if you know of anyone who wants them, they have one spare each of Nos.103,105,106,107,108,109,110,111,112,113,114,115,116,117. Due to someone giving up on them.
The Bond collectors I know already have them.
Well mine had an angled left rear light and a tipping left rear door handle, but the worst fault was a rattle which was the front bench seat being loose and moving an inch back and forth when tipped ! Difficult to see when it's black on black background.
"
Bleuville. P.S.-I see the BBFC (film classifications) have made DAF a "12 instead of "12A". (Bra strangling scene.)
I was frankly expecting the QC problems. That is what happens when Ixo speeds up their production without taking shortcuts like an unpainted interior and a minimal (or even no) base (typically, that's how they're able to churn out so many "lesser" partwork cars so quickly).
EDIT: To be clear, in no way do I advocate those shortcuts to be taken on this particular partwork. But I'm not a fan of the speed-up, either, since it's clearly at the expense of quality.
I think there's always been a bit of a problem with quality control related to the JBCC ever since day one. Usually it's only minor problems such as ill fitting parts that are easy to correct but very occasionally you do come across things that can't, such as the body damage on Maz's Savoy. Having said that, out of a hundred or so models, I've only complained about two on the grounds of unfixable problems, as against at least ten replacements sent because of cracked cases. The real problem is for those who are not subscribers, paying over the odds, or for those who choose to keep their models in the blister packs, then a small fault can be extremely annoying.
Finding a top-notch dealer is becoming more and more important too IMHO, because through bad experiences on eBay, I'm pretty sure there IS quality control at the JBCC. A while back I bought three models from an eBay seller in the North East, all of them unopened in blister packs, bagged with magazines and supposedly mint. When I got them, all three had serious defects clearly visible - bent A pillar, cracked glass, missing light - all unfixable. It looked to me they were probably all rejected by the JBCC quality control but had subsequently found their way onto eBay when they should have been junked or given away strictly 'not for re-sale'. Under these circumstances it would be easy to assume you've bought an item that's passed a QC guy with unbelievably low standards.
On the point of quality control.... not sure how much there is! My Savoy arrived with the roof and window section, (all the non metallic part), almost seperated from the body. The windscreen wipers were inserted between the window frame, one inside the car the other out and the offside of the roof/windows was clipped into the body but the rest was at 45 degrees.
Managed to recover it and clip it into position. But really not sure how its possible to go through the assembly of the card insert, boxing up and taping. And then picked and packed without it being noticed. This was practically in two pieces! X-(
There was no way it had become seperated in transit due to the wipers.
I guess this is the only one since day one ive had thats been 'faulty' so i guess i should be thankful.
Right, thats me finished whining. Ill get my coat.
On the point of quality control.... not sure how much there is! My Savoy arrived with the roof and window section, (all the non metallic part), almost seperated from the body. The windscreen wipers were inserted between the window frame, one inside the car the other out and the offside of the roof/windows was clipped into the body but the rest was at 45 degrees.
Managed to recover it and clip it into position. But really not sure how its possible to go through the assembly of the card insert, boxing up and taping. And then picked and packed without it being noticed. This was practically in two pieces! X-(
There was no way it had become seperated in transit due to the wipers.
I guess this is the only one since day one ive had thats been 'faulty' so i guess i should be thankful.
Right, thats me finished whining. Ill get my coat.
Like you I have been very lucky and had only one damaged edition and was the BMW Z3 a way back in 2007 , after my complaint and replacement my models have been arriving in a very secure cardboard box. Still missing two issues ,though have been assured they are ordered and on their way.
I think I tend to be more lenient regarding qc and either don't notice something is really that wrong or really not bothered as most minor things can be sorted by myself.
I notice on some of the skyfall pr shots there is a met police Volvo v70 this would be a good edition especially as we don't have a uk police vehicle in the collection not that I can remember .
On the point of quality control.... not sure how much there is! My Savoy arrived with the roof and window section, (all the non metallic part), almost seperated from the body. The windscreen wipers were inserted between the window frame, one inside the car the other out and the offside of the roof/windows was clipped into the body but the rest was at 45 degrees.
Managed to recover it and clip it into position. But really not sure how its possible to go through the assembly of the card insert, boxing up and taping. And then picked and packed without it being noticed. This was practically in two pieces! X-(
There was no way it had become seperated in transit due to the wipers.
I guess this is the only one since day one ive had thats been 'faulty' so i guess i should be thankful.
Right, thats me finished whining. Ill get my coat.
I assume there must be two stages of quality control - one at the factory then a second at the JBCC UK distributors to check for any 'transit damage' when they're bagged up with the magazines (wasn't there talk of an entire shipment being rejected a while back? Was it some of the Econolines?) I think it's significant that I got three 'mint bagged' cars off eBay that were rogues - I'm sure they were QC rejects from the 'bagging' stage. The Savoy with the window problem is unacceptable though, you probably still could phone Database and ask for/demand a replacement even though you've opened the package, the fact still remains that it's sub-standard. You don't usually have to return the faulty one, they just send another.
On the point of quality control.... not sure how much there is! My Savoy arrived with the roof and window section, (all the non metallic part), almost seperated from the body. The windscreen wipers were inserted between the window frame, one inside the car the other out and the offside of the roof/windows was clipped into the body but the rest was at 45 degrees.
Managed to recover it and clip it into position. But really not sure how its possible to go through the assembly of the card insert, boxing up and taping. And then picked and packed without it being noticed. This was practically in two pieces! X-(
There was no way it had become seperated in transit due to the wipers.
I guess this is the only one since day one ive had thats been 'faulty' so i guess i should be thankful.
Right, thats me finished whining. Ill get my coat.
I assume there must be two stages of quality control - one at the factory then a second at the JBCC UK distributors to check for any 'transit damage' when they're bagged up with the magazines (wasn't there talk of an entire shipment being rejected a while back? Was it some of the Econolines?) I think it's significant that I got three 'mint bagged' cars off eBay that were rogues - I'm sure they were QC rejects from the 'bagging' stage. The Savoy with the window problem is unacceptable though, you probably still could phone Database and ask for/demand a replacement even though you've opened the package, the fact still remains that it's sub-standard. You don't usually have to return the faulty one, they just send another.
Yes I agree I complained about the Z3 and a replacement was sent. Without a doubt any serious problems you should always phone.
Ordered replacement Lincoln (tyres too big) and Savoy (damaged light cowl) and as ever database warehouse customer service is good and they are sending replacements. It is an advantage over web ordering or even shops who dont carry enough to let you choose a good one from the start.
I agree with Dalko110 if IXO rush QC is hit straight away. Looking at some partworks I bought in from Poland the build quality is higher even though models retail for slightly less money.
Asked again about 135 or 140. Official Database warehouse line is 135 is it officially confirmed by Eaglemoss.
Ordered next two parts and Dalko110 was right again about Dodge Ram its already sold out on newstrade sales and needs another batch made.
I agree with Dalko110 if IXO rush QC is hit straight away. Looking at some partworks I bought in from Poland the build quality is higher even though models retail for slightly less money.
As mentioned, the reason Ixo gets away with that for Kultowe Auta PRL-u is because they don't paint the interior and the door handles are sometimes (not always) moulded into the car. They're great representations of the real thing, but I would recommend painting the interior. If you need photos, just PM me, I have some I think I could help you with.
I think Ixo chose the wrong models to speed up on. If they'd done this around, say, Issue 114, you'd get five consecutive 100% recycled moulds, which also really eases the transition.
Asked again about 135 or 140. Official Database warehouse line is 135 is it officially confirmed by Eaglemoss.
Interesting they confirmed it. To be honest, I think EM was strongly leaning toward a 136-140 extension at one point, but have since either left the door open to shutting everything down at 135 and are leaning that way or are planning on it/have already decided it.
Ordered next two parts and Dalko110 was right again about Dodge Ram its already sold out on newstrade sales and needs another batch made.
On this side of the pond, we do love our pickup trucks. B-) Unfortunatelly, that's something I'm sure the eBay guys are aware of, too.
Arymore, just request a replacement car. I may not be a subscriber or even live in the UK, but we've had so many people request not only replacements, but multiple replacements without any kind of issue that I have a feeling it would go well.
(wasn't there talk of an entire shipment being rejected a while back? Was it some of the Econolines?)
Apparently, the glue being used to hold in the side mirrors was non-existent or not applied correctly.
A while back I bought three models from an eBay seller in the North East, all of them unopened in blister packs, bagged with magazines and supposedly mint. When I got them, all three had serious defects clearly visible - bent A pillar, cracked glass, missing light - all unfixable. It looked to me they were probably all rejected by the JBCC quality control but had subsequently found their way onto eBay when they should have been junked or given away strictly 'not for re-sale'.
I'm guessing someone either knows or knew someone at the QC department. And you're right...for most cars, there are two levels of QC: one in China to make sure the car was manufactured correctly and one by the importer to make sure models weren't damaged in transit. The kind you got were the latter, I'm sure. By the way, sometimes QC rejects actually have nothing to do with the car. I know a guy in Hong Kong I do a ton of business with who gets in real nice stuff (pretty much exclusively Neo and Ebbro) where almost invariably, the case is cracked but there's nothing else wrong (he'll point out if something is; I know him well enough). I have a ton of cars on my layout in otherwise perfect shape thanks to that.
I know a guy in Hong Kong I do a ton of business with who gets in real nice stuff (pretty much exclusively Neo and Ebbro) where almost invariably, the case is cracked but there's nothing else wrong (he'll point out if something is; I know him well enough). I have a ton of cars on my layout in otherwise perfect shape thanks to that.
This is quite some way off topic, but Dalkowski, could you maybe put me in touch with this guy? I really like Neo models but I try not to pay £50 if I can avoid it, and I'm not too bothered about cracked boxes.
I know a guy in Hong Kong I do a ton of business with who gets in real nice stuff (pretty much exclusively Neo and Ebbro) where almost invariably, the case is cracked but there's nothing else wrong (he'll point out if something is; I know him well enough). I have a ton of cars on my layout in otherwise perfect shape thanks to that.
This is quite some way off topic, but Dalkowski, could you maybe put me in touch with this guy? I really like Neo models but I try not to pay £50 if I can avoid it, and I'm not too bothered about cracked boxes.
Okay, just got my Plymouth Savoys in great shape! The lights and door handles are fine, so the whole handpick thing definitely worked out! B-)
Now, Maz wants to know about the wiper blades, and I'll be happy to oblige. One of the two cars has almost exactly even wiper blades. The other, oddly, has the driver's side wiper up and the passenger side wiper down, not the other way around as seen on Maz's three cars!
As a sidenote, I'm not sure why, but the magazine claims the Plymouth Taxicab Special originated in 1960 (otherwise, the description of the Savoy was really nice). This is not true, as we've demonstrated by the 1959 brochure. The claims that this car was Belvedere-based really got me looking into it and it did indeed use the MP1-M chassis (same as the 6-cyl Belvedere), not the MP1-L chassis (same as the 6-cyl Savoy). However, it also had REALLY limited production output for whatever reason during the 1959 model year. I can find exactly ONE photo of a 1959 Plymouth Taxicab Special, and it's pretty lousy quality at that.
In 1960, the name was formally changed to Plymouth Taxi Special (which replaced the Taxicab Special) and it was based on the Savoy, with a down-rated version called the Plymouth Fleet Special replacing the Savoy Taxi.
As to the model, it's good. Very good. I'm quite glad I wound up getting two of them and actually, they did such a nice job that I only plan on replacing the license plates on one model to simply get different Turkish plates.
Okay, I FINALLY have an explanation (as in, a verifiable one) as to why the tops of the perspex cases on the dioramas tend to be so ill-fitting (or at least have been since Ixo started using the normal-sized cases): the clear plastic part is not made by Ixo. To save money on certain issues that conformed with the standard-sized cases, they've been using a Universal Hobbies top over the Ixo diorama base and car. The thing is, the cards being printed up for the inside of the dioramas are made to fit Ixo perspex cases...which is why they're very slightly off and why there's slight damage to the insert, usually.
Likewise, I had a second source confirm that the blister packs made for standard-sized cases that say "G.E. Fabbri" and give the U.H. name and address are re-used. Here's an excerpt from that email (despite being a professional translator, English is not this first guy's language, so I corrected a few misspellings...I did NOT alter any word as he meant it, though)...
"Look at the side of the Plymouth's box insert i]i.e. diorama insert[/i. You notice that the trademark reads 'Eaglemoss' and not 'GE Fabbri'. IXO makes boxes that fit inside like a glove, so there is no reason to make a change. The blister cases are already printed. Note, however, that every issue (Mercedes-Benz, Rolls-Royce that will be issued) where a trademark hologram is needed explicitly features no manufacturer, 'Eaglemoss', and no mention of GE Fabbri or Universal Hobbies. This also happens with longer cases like the Lincoln Continental limo."
I have a question about bettering your modells. When you want to adjust the foglight and/or reverse light (is this the correct English word) what colors do you use? Deepred and silver? Another question, do you pace tape or something around the spot you want to paint?
I have a question about bettering your modells. When you want to adjust the foglight and/or reverse light (is this the correct English word) what colors do you use? Deepred and silver? Another question, do you pace tape or something around the spot you want to paint?
When adjusting the headlights and turn signals (up front) and the taillights (the ones in back), I actually take the car and unscrew the top. Just take the car completely apart then quite literally poke out the lights. If there's glue holding them in there, you can always glue it back on with a dab of Superglue. That saves you from getting paint around the lights. If I may make a suggestion, paint the BACK of the lights; the side touching the metal of the car. This gives the effect of having the lights turned on.
If you need to paint around a particular spot that isn't removeable, make sure to use masking tape to tape around it. This type of tape doesn't harm the car's paint.
I have a question about bettering your modells. When you want to adjust the foglight and/or reverse light (is this the correct English word) what colors do you use? Deepred and silver? Another question, do you pace tape or something around the spot you want to paint?
When adjusting the headlights and turn signals (up front) and the taillights (the ones in back), I actually take the car and unscrew the top. Just take the car completely apart then quite literally poke out the lights. If there's glue holding them in there, you can always glue it back on with a dab of Superglue. That saves you from getting paint around the lights. If I may make a suggestion, paint the BACK of the lights; the side touching the metal of the car. This gives the effect of having the lights turned on.
If you need to paint around a particular spot that isn't removeable, make sure to use masking tape to tape around it. This type of tape doesn't harm the car's paint.
Hope I was of some help!
Great ideas, I use similar techniques. My rule, however, is not to use even the best superglue if it can be avoided, and not to use it at all around clear plastic, as most tend to "fog" it. I recommend a clear epoxy glue (the one where you mix two components). You can get it with different setting times - 15 or 30 minutes is usually the best, the 5 mins one usually hardens too quickly (sometimes you need to re-position the parts). Make sure you get the ultra clear variety, as some cheaper clear ones go yellow over time, and it may show on the model. If any glue gets out, you should be able to wipe it off with a cotton cloth straight away, as it will be very difficult to do later. Alternatively, you can also use any PVA woodworking glue instead. It looks white, but dries up clear.
Thanks for both your reactions.
It is no use to unscrew the top, because it is on a place that is unremovable. So I will use the masking tape and carefully try.
Not sure if or how different countries' glues have ingredient changes, but I use Loctite, which hasn't fogged anything since I've been using it. Then again, Loctite, while Cyanoacrylate-based, has a bit of a different formula. It's not like Gorilla Glue or Krazy Glue, though, which CAN fog clear plastic. However, when I've been out of Loctite (which I believe is a US-only product), I have used Superglue (brand name) to good effect.
The irony is that in the US, virtually all clear epoxy is sold as one component. There are two exceptions: Hy-Poxy, which I know nothing about, and MAX 1618, which I have heard good reviews about. Still, the pre-mixed stuff isn't without issues. Although it doesn't "yellow" parts, it "frosts" them, as if someone basically coated the part in ice.
I do use woodworking glue on resin models, though. That won't hurt anything, although you have to be careful with it; sometimes it doesn't want to stick.
It is no use to unscrew the top, because it is on a place that is unremovable.
Before going through with this, because there may be a language barrier, what particular part are you trying to repaint? If it's a seperate part from the car itself, then unscrew the top of the car from the bottom of the car (after having unscrewed the bottom of the car from the base) and poke the part out from the inside of the body shell.
Good news for the '73 Chevy Bel Air! At least I think so. It's been assigned Premium X Diecast numbers PRD233 and PRD234 as a blue sedan and (ready for this, Code 3'ers?) a New York City private fleet taxi (i.e. a "gypsy cab"). We actually see the latter as Bond navigates the FDR Expressway! The reason I say this is good news aside from there being a taxi version is because they'll be paying attention to the rear bumper if they hope to resell the car on an upscale market.
LOL My replacement Savoy turned up today. Headlights are straight but BOTH wipers are perched up the screen and not at rest. Now where is that screwdriver!
LOL My replacement Savoy turned up today. Headlights are straight but BOTH wipers are perched up the screen and not at rest. Now where is that screwdriver!
Save yourself some effort and pretend it's raining, Maz... )
I am looking forward to the bel air, it's from my favourite bond and other than bond cars it
Stands out as a car from bond don't know why just like it :-)
I am looking forward to the bel air, it's from my favourite bond and other than bond cars it
Stands out as a car from bond don't know why just like it :-)
Well then, you're going to get a grand total of four Bel Airs if we count the two in the JBCC and the two from Premium X (because face it, I'm sure the blue one showed up somewhere in the film... ) ), plus of course the Impala Custom Coupe (replete with 454 Turbo-Jet V8). I'm betting they still have the lower portion of the grille straight up and down rather than sloping inward slightly, but honestly, it's something I can overlook. If they screwed around with the actual body, that would be a tad more problematic.
Before going through with this, because there may be a language barrier, what particular part are you trying to repaint? If it's a seperate part from the car itself, then unscrew the top of the car from the bottom of the car (after having unscrewed the bottom of the car from the base) and poke the part out from the inside of the body shell.
I have a modell, not from JBCC, where the 2 lights I mentioned are twisted around.
The left light on the bumper should be the foglight, which they paint silver (?) and on the right side the light for driving backwards they painted red as being the foglight. Both lights are painterd on the bumper.
In other words, they painted it as for a righthand side car and it is a lefthand side car.
I put a link to the model, a Mitsubishi Lancer 2000 Turbo, which car I owned and enjoy for 3 years when I was still in my twenties. And now enjoy the modell ) http://www.neoscalemodels.com/images/Large_f747a9d3-b.jpg
I have a modell, not from JBCC, where the 2 lights I mentioned are twisted around.
The left light on the bumper should be the foglight, which they paint silver (?) and on the right side the light for driving backwards they painted red as being the foglight. Both lights are painterd on the bumper.
In other words, they painted it as for a righthand side car and it is a lefthand side car.
I put a link to the model, a Mitsubishi Lancer 2000 Turbo, which car I owned and enjoy for 3 years when I was still in my twenties. And now enjoy the modell ) http://www.neoscalemodels.com/images/Large_f747a9d3-b.jpg
Okay, resin models (Neo only makes resin) are a whole different thing from diecast regarding modifications. Instead of cyanoacrylate-based glue (i.e. Superglue), which I recommend for diecast, I recommend woodworking glue for resin models should they sustain any damage. Likewise, even with masking tape, be VERY careful with the car's details...it could pull them right off. You almost may be better off painting free-hand and then touching up afterwards; I know some people that prefer to do this with resin. Still, if you're really careful with masking tape and don't press it on too hard (which is harder than it sounds in the case of resin models), you should be able to get this done.
I have lost database warehouse phone number again - I promise to save it on phone next time... Would someone be kind enough to post it again since search of web site site doesnt turn up previous posting
Comments
Get 2 ( of the same) models from Forbidden Planet,Bristol, UK and if you know of anyone who wants them, they have one spare each of Nos.103,105,106,107,108,109,110,111,112,113,114,115,116,117. Due to someone giving up on them.
The Bond collectors I know already have them.
Well mine had an angled left rear light and a tipping left rear door handle, but the worst fault was a rattle which was the front bench seat being loose and moving an inch back and forth when tipped ! Difficult to see when it's black on black background.
"
Bleuville. P.S.-I see the BBFC (film classifications) have made DAF a "12 instead of "12A". (Bra strangling scene.)
EDIT: To be clear, in no way do I advocate those shortcuts to be taken on this particular partwork. But I'm not a fan of the speed-up, either, since it's clearly at the expense of quality.
Finding a top-notch dealer is becoming more and more important too IMHO, because through bad experiences on eBay, I'm pretty sure there IS quality control at the JBCC. A while back I bought three models from an eBay seller in the North East, all of them unopened in blister packs, bagged with magazines and supposedly mint. When I got them, all three had serious defects clearly visible - bent A pillar, cracked glass, missing light - all unfixable. It looked to me they were probably all rejected by the JBCC quality control but had subsequently found their way onto eBay when they should have been junked or given away strictly 'not for re-sale'. Under these circumstances it would be easy to assume you've bought an item that's passed a QC guy with unbelievably low standards.
Managed to recover it and clip it into position. But really not sure how its possible to go through the assembly of the card insert, boxing up and taping. And then picked and packed without it being noticed. This was practically in two pieces! X-(
There was no way it had become seperated in transit due to the wipers.
I guess this is the only one since day one ive had thats been 'faulty' so i guess i should be thankful.
Right, thats me finished whining. Ill get my coat.
Like you I have been very lucky and had only one damaged edition and was the BMW Z3 a way back in 2007 , after my complaint and replacement my models have been arriving in a very secure cardboard box. Still missing two issues ,though have been assured they are ordered and on their way.
I think I tend to be more lenient regarding qc and either don't notice something is really that wrong or really not bothered as most minor things can be sorted by myself.
I notice on some of the skyfall pr shots there is a met police Volvo v70 this would be a good edition especially as we don't have a uk police vehicle in the collection not that I can remember .
I assume there must be two stages of quality control - one at the factory then a second at the JBCC UK distributors to check for any 'transit damage' when they're bagged up with the magazines (wasn't there talk of an entire shipment being rejected a while back? Was it some of the Econolines?) I think it's significant that I got three 'mint bagged' cars off eBay that were rogues - I'm sure they were QC rejects from the 'bagging' stage. The Savoy with the window problem is unacceptable though, you probably still could phone Database and ask for/demand a replacement even though you've opened the package, the fact still remains that it's sub-standard. You don't usually have to return the faulty one, they just send another.
Yes I agree I complained about the Z3 and a replacement was sent. Without a doubt any serious problems you should always phone.
I agree with Dalko110 if IXO rush QC is hit straight away. Looking at some partworks I bought in from Poland the build quality is higher even though models retail for slightly less money.
Asked again about 135 or 140. Official Database warehouse line is 135 is it officially confirmed by Eaglemoss.
Ordered next two parts and Dalko110 was right again about Dodge Ram its already sold out on newstrade sales and needs another batch made.
As mentioned, the reason Ixo gets away with that for Kultowe Auta PRL-u is because they don't paint the interior and the door handles are sometimes (not always) moulded into the car. They're great representations of the real thing, but I would recommend painting the interior. If you need photos, just PM me, I have some I think I could help you with.
I think Ixo chose the wrong models to speed up on. If they'd done this around, say, Issue 114, you'd get five consecutive 100% recycled moulds, which also really eases the transition.
Interesting they confirmed it. To be honest, I think EM was strongly leaning toward a 136-140 extension at one point, but have since either left the door open to shutting everything down at 135 and are leaning that way or are planning on it/have already decided it.
On this side of the pond, we do love our pickup trucks. B-) Unfortunatelly, that's something I'm sure the eBay guys are aware of, too.
Arymore, just request a replacement car. I may not be a subscriber or even live in the UK, but we've had so many people request not only replacements, but multiple replacements without any kind of issue that I have a feeling it would go well.
Apparently, the glue being used to hold in the side mirrors was non-existent or not applied correctly.
I'm guessing someone either knows or knew someone at the QC department. And you're right...for most cars, there are two levels of QC: one in China to make sure the car was manufactured correctly and one by the importer to make sure models weren't damaged in transit. The kind you got were the latter, I'm sure. By the way, sometimes QC rejects actually have nothing to do with the car. I know a guy in Hong Kong I do a ton of business with who gets in real nice stuff (pretty much exclusively Neo and Ebbro) where almost invariably, the case is cracked but there's nothing else wrong (he'll point out if something is; I know him well enough). I have a ton of cars on my layout in otherwise perfect shape thanks to that.
This is quite some way off topic, but Dalkowski, could you maybe put me in touch with this guy? I really like Neo models but I try not to pay £50 if I can avoid it, and I'm not too bothered about cracked boxes.
Thanks very much.
Sure, I'll PM you...
Now, Maz wants to know about the wiper blades, and I'll be happy to oblige. One of the two cars has almost exactly even wiper blades. The other, oddly, has the driver's side wiper up and the passenger side wiper down, not the other way around as seen on Maz's three cars!
As a sidenote, I'm not sure why, but the magazine claims the Plymouth Taxicab Special originated in 1960 (otherwise, the description of the Savoy was really nice). This is not true, as we've demonstrated by the 1959 brochure. The claims that this car was Belvedere-based really got me looking into it and it did indeed use the MP1-M chassis (same as the 6-cyl Belvedere), not the MP1-L chassis (same as the 6-cyl Savoy). However, it also had REALLY limited production output for whatever reason during the 1959 model year. I can find exactly ONE photo of a 1959 Plymouth Taxicab Special, and it's pretty lousy quality at that.
In 1960, the name was formally changed to Plymouth Taxi Special (which replaced the Taxicab Special) and it was based on the Savoy, with a down-rated version called the Plymouth Fleet Special replacing the Savoy Taxi.
As to the model, it's good. Very good. I'm quite glad I wound up getting two of them and actually, they did such a nice job that I only plan on replacing the license plates on one model to simply get different Turkish plates.
Sure, typing up the PM now...also PM'ing you something else you might enjoy.
Likewise, I had a second source confirm that the blister packs made for standard-sized cases that say "G.E. Fabbri" and give the U.H. name and address are re-used. Here's an excerpt from that email (despite being a professional translator, English is not this first guy's language, so I corrected a few misspellings...I did NOT alter any word as he meant it, though)...
"Look at the side of the Plymouth's box insert i]i.e. diorama insert[/i. You notice that the trademark reads 'Eaglemoss' and not 'GE Fabbri'. IXO makes boxes that fit inside like a glove, so there is no reason to make a change. The blister cases are already printed. Note, however, that every issue (Mercedes-Benz, Rolls-Royce that will be issued) where a trademark hologram is needed explicitly features no manufacturer, 'Eaglemoss', and no mention of GE Fabbri or Universal Hobbies. This also happens with longer cases like the Lincoln Continental limo."
When adjusting the headlights and turn signals (up front) and the taillights (the ones in back), I actually take the car and unscrew the top. Just take the car completely apart then quite literally poke out the lights. If there's glue holding them in there, you can always glue it back on with a dab of Superglue. That saves you from getting paint around the lights. If I may make a suggestion, paint the BACK of the lights; the side touching the metal of the car. This gives the effect of having the lights turned on.
If you need to paint around a particular spot that isn't removeable, make sure to use masking tape to tape around it. This type of tape doesn't harm the car's paint.
Hope I was of some help!
Great ideas, I use similar techniques. My rule, however, is not to use even the best superglue if it can be avoided, and not to use it at all around clear plastic, as most tend to "fog" it. I recommend a clear epoxy glue (the one where you mix two components). You can get it with different setting times - 15 or 30 minutes is usually the best, the 5 mins one usually hardens too quickly (sometimes you need to re-position the parts). Make sure you get the ultra clear variety, as some cheaper clear ones go yellow over time, and it may show on the model. If any glue gets out, you should be able to wipe it off with a cotton cloth straight away, as it will be very difficult to do later. Alternatively, you can also use any PVA woodworking glue instead. It looks white, but dries up clear.
It is no use to unscrew the top, because it is on a place that is unremovable. So I will use the masking tape and carefully try.
Not sure if or how different countries' glues have ingredient changes, but I use Loctite, which hasn't fogged anything since I've been using it. Then again, Loctite, while Cyanoacrylate-based, has a bit of a different formula. It's not like Gorilla Glue or Krazy Glue, though, which CAN fog clear plastic. However, when I've been out of Loctite (which I believe is a US-only product), I have used Superglue (brand name) to good effect.
The irony is that in the US, virtually all clear epoxy is sold as one component. There are two exceptions: Hy-Poxy, which I know nothing about, and MAX 1618, which I have heard good reviews about. Still, the pre-mixed stuff isn't without issues. Although it doesn't "yellow" parts, it "frosts" them, as if someone basically coated the part in ice.
I do use woodworking glue on resin models, though. That won't hurt anything, although you have to be careful with it; sometimes it doesn't want to stick.
Before going through with this, because there may be a language barrier, what particular part are you trying to repaint? If it's a seperate part from the car itself, then unscrew the top of the car from the bottom of the car (after having unscrewed the bottom of the car from the base) and poke the part out from the inside of the body shell.
Save yourself some effort and pretend it's raining, Maz...
Stands out as a car from bond don't know why just like it :-)
Well then, you're going to get a grand total of four Bel Airs if we count the two in the JBCC and the two from Premium X (because face it, I'm sure the blue one showed up somewhere in the film...
I have a modell, not from JBCC, where the 2 lights I mentioned are twisted around.
The left light on the bumper should be the foglight, which they paint silver (?) and on the right side the light for driving backwards they painted red as being the foglight. Both lights are painterd on the bumper.
In other words, they painted it as for a righthand side car and it is a lefthand side car.
I put a link to the model, a Mitsubishi Lancer 2000 Turbo, which car I owned and enjoy for 3 years when I was still in my twenties. And now enjoy the modell
http://www.neoscalemodels.com/images/Large_f747a9d3-b.jpg
Okay, resin models (Neo only makes resin) are a whole different thing from diecast regarding modifications. Instead of cyanoacrylate-based glue (i.e. Superglue), which I recommend for diecast, I recommend woodworking glue for resin models should they sustain any damage. Likewise, even with masking tape, be VERY careful with the car's details...it could pull them right off. You almost may be better off painting free-hand and then touching up afterwards; I know some people that prefer to do this with resin. Still, if you're really careful with masking tape and don't press it on too hard (which is harder than it sounds in the case of resin models), you should be able to get this done.
Regardless, nice model despite the light defects!