hi all im a newby and have bought all the up to date parts of the G.E Fabbri AstonMartin and i have a problem with the clear front lenses that cover the machine guns they have a tiny plastic stub on the side with a tiny hole that goes the a small metal rod the plastic stub with the small hole is so flimsy and weak that it breaks very easily does anybody know how thuis problem can be corrected to work as it should
Hi i am new to this forum and my issue is the Lights that cover the machine guns on the G.E.Fabbri AstonMartin they have a little plastic stub on the side of the light with a tiny small hole that a little metal bar goes through it to cover the machine guns the small plastic stub is so flimsy and weak that it breaks almost Immedietley does any one have any ideas how this problem can be corrected
Has anyone worked out just how much this poor value for money car is costing,remember no electric working parts apart from lights that a 5 year old could make.For this kind of money I would have expected motorized sheild guns overiders ect.They could do it in the sixties with tin plate cars so there is no excuse for the makers to do it now other than ripping you off. PS.. AND YOU HAVE GOT TO BUILD THE DAMNED THING!
Well the value for money debate ran for quite a while when the model first hit the press.
I didnt go in for it as I a) couldn't afford to commit to it, b) there were too many unanswered questions regarding details and build quality, c) the details should IMO be sharper than they are and d) I was worried the full subscription would never get printed.
Do I regret not signing up? I'm afraid to say it but, yes.
You have to take a step back john and see this model for what it is. £600 is actually very good money for the scale, models of this scale made professionally can fetch ten times that amount quite easily.
And besides, working gadgets are cool, but how often would you play with it?
Has anyone worked out just how much this poor value for money car is costing,remember no electric working parts apart from lights that a 5 year old could make.For this kind of money I would have expected motorized sheild guns overiders ect.They could do it in the sixties with tin plate cars so there is no excuse for the makers to do it now other than ripping you off. PS.. AND YOU HAVE GOT TO BUILD THE DAMNED THING!
Hi Mate,
Poor value for money??....nope not for one second when you realise that this was originally going to be a flagship Corgi collectible @ £1500 a pop. GE Fabbri were offered the Corgi model, decided it was not accurate enough, it wasn't & went for a full resculpt producing the prototype which appears on their website which was used to create the partworks model which is just a few issues from completion as they have just supplied the chassis.
This collector loves it & has actually enjoyed building it. I didn't think I would.
I agree that the model is worth the money - assuming that it will be completed, of course. In the UK there are only a few issues left, but there have been a number of complaints about body paint mismatch, which is currently being investigated. Who knows, perhaps we will all receive a full body replacement. If so, this would cost the publisher quite a fortune. Also, given hiccups like this, I do not think the series will ever be re-released; this means that what we have built should increase in value over time, as hopefully the market won't be as flooded as it has been with the JBCC.
I agree that the model is worth the money - assuming that it will be completed, of course. In the UK there are only a few issues left, but there have been a number of complaints about body paint mismatch, which is currently being investigated. Who knows, perhaps we will all receive a full body replacement. If so, this would cost the publisher quite a fortune. Also, given hiccups like this, I do not think the series will ever be re-released; this means that what we have built should increase in value over time, as hopefully the market won't be as flooded as it has been with the JBCC.
Regarding colour mismatch. As one of the "test subscribers" my bonnet & removable roof panel were slightly darker than the actual full release parts. I sent a photo to GE Fabbri who supplied replacement parts which match the more recent painted components perfectly & they acted quite quickly to do so.
I agree that the model is worth the money - assuming that it will be completed, of course. In the UK there are only a few issues left, but there have been a number of complaints about body paint mismatch, which is currently being investigated. Who knows, perhaps we will all receive a full body replacement. If so, this would cost the publisher quite a fortune. Also, given hiccups like this, I do not think the series will ever be re-released; this means that what we have built should increase in value over time, as hopefully the market won't be as flooded as it has been with the JBCC.
Regarding colour mismatch. As one of the "test subscribers" my bonnet & removable roof panel were slightly darker than the actual full release parts. I sent a photo to GE Fabbri who supplied replacement parts which match the more recent painted components perfectly & they acted quite quickly to do so.
It is only the UK subscribers at this stage who have received all the body parts, and some of them complained about the paint mismatch. I myself do not have enough parts yet - you really need to be able to put all the body parts together to see if the paint matches. Some UK subscribers also complained about a warped main frame, but it is hard to say if this is manufacturer's fault or transit damage. I have also had numerous imprefect or broken parts, but they have been replaced by the distributor.
Minigeff promised that this would happen, way back on page 2. A metallic paint will always change reflections according to the angle. If body and doors aren't painted when the door is in place the direction of the metallic particles will differ. Even if you use the exact same can of paint it will not match - from certain angles more (as probably in this Ebay photo) than from others but it will never match exactly from all angles.
My major concern was the proportions of the model and gaps of the split body parts. I still think that the top section is too low ("chopped") but the body parts are much better fitting than I thought. Hope to see photos of the completed thing soon.
I agree that the paint seems to be the most important issue, and I really wonder what Eaglemoss will decide to do in the end. It will cost them a fortune to replace all body parts, but it would be even more costly to refund the whole model. Who knows, maybe the factory who painted the parts will accept the blame, or it will be covered by some kind of product insurance. They already admitted that the differences exist and are unacceptable.
As to the proportions, I have to agree, however the DB5 seems to be the most difficult ever to model - no manufacturer has really got this right, in any scale. This even includes the 1/8 scale Diamond Cars model, which in many respects is nowhere near this one, despite a much higher price tag.
The gaps in the body parts seem to be the least of our worries, as long as your parts are not warped and fit, it is all fine, but if I have any problems I am prepared to fill any gaps with clear resin filler tinted with silver paint - it should do the job.
There will not be 85 issues....ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!
There will however be 86 issues, the final component being a custom cloth car cover fully authorised by AML Ltd very similar to the Connoisseur style covers found on the full size jobbies. Should look really nice with the official £40 lump of black painted MDF base. Both items will be AML branded.
Well guys with just 3 issues to completion & only 2 of those issues being parts, the third being a custom cloth protective cover this is pretty much there.
Issue 82 contains a few gaffs in instruction & illustration. A biggy is to take the bulk head apart to fit it into the main body frame...you don't need to in fact its a bugger to fit the rear bulk head back in place with the two side bulk heads screwed firmly into place. The illustration showing the front screws (type C) holding the side bulk heads in place is incorrect as the holes they are directing you to use are what I believe will be mounting points for the front wings etc assembly. The screw holes for the type C screws are on the inside of the engine bay roughly front axle height.
On the Danbury Mint DB5 thread we started discussing a "perfect" DB5 model and I was asked to put some photos of my modifications.
As an example, here's a photo of the real DB5 rearview mirror:
The one supplied by Eaglemoss (GE Fabbri) is just a piece of chromed plastic that would be OK in a smaller scale, but it looks rather unrealistic in 1/8:
However, the Diamond Cars 1/8 scale EUR 4,190-5,190 model is only marginally better:
And, given the large scale, modification is rather easy. Here's my take on it:
Could someone tell me how this Facebook thing works please? I created a Facebook account and tried to make a post on Eaglemoss's DB5 Facebook page. No-one replied, and when I signed in to Facebook on someone else's account, I found that my post didn't appear. How do I do it so that my posts appear to other Facebook users on the DB5 page? Is there some option I have to select or something?
At a quick look I'd say the 007 DB5 is not a monitored Facebook page, Sm64 - maybe try posting your comment on the main Eaglemoss Collections page where their Customer Services do monitor and reply: http://www.facebook.com/EaglemossCollections
I've been following some build diaries at the partworks website and I see that this series is nearly complete - looking forward to seeing some pics of the finished models!
At a quick look I'd say the 007 DB5 is not a monitored Facebook page, Sm64 - maybe try posting your comment on the main Eaglemoss Collections page where their Customer Services do monitor and reply: http://www.facebook.com/EaglemossCollections
I've been following some build diaries at the partworks website and I see that this series is nearly complete - looking forward to seeing some pics of the finished models!
It's only nearly complete in the UK - the rest of us still have quite a few months to go.
It's only nearly complete in the UK - the rest of us still have quite a few months to go.
Yes, here in South Africa it's running 5 months behind the UK - the issues I saw at the newsagent earlier today were in the mid-60s.
I decided not to buy this partwork but I have still found it interesting to follow the various build diaries of UK subscribers: http://www.partworkmodels.co.uk/phpBB3/viewforum.php?f=71
thing to bear in mind though is when the scale factor gets smaller, the difference between sizes gets larger.
say if i bought a 1:72 airfix kit to go on a 00 gauge railway (1:76) you'd hardly notice the difference.
however, putting a 1:9 brossa next door to a 1:8 car you'd spot the inaccuracy in his height a mile off.
say brossa is 6' 6", thats 1981.2mm
at 1:8 he should be 247.65mm high
the 1:9 figure will be 220.13mm high
so thats a difference of 27.52mm, ie the dragon model brossa, stood next to the 1:8 aston would work out at 1761.04mm tall, thats a whopping 220mm difference from his true height of 1981.2mm, and brossa would appear to stand roughly 5' 9"
i'm now waiting for the obvious glib remark from donk that if i stood next to the 1:8 aston, it'd look lifelike, or that if i wanna come round n take his 1:8 aston for a spin i can, or some other 'witty comment' from his infinite stores of banter 8-)
thing to bear in mind though is when the scale factor gets smaller, the difference between sizes gets larger.
say if i bought a 1:72 airfix kit to go on a 00 gauge railway (1:76) you'd hardly notice the difference.
however, putting a 1:9 brossa next door to a 1:8 car you'd spot the inaccuracy in his height a mile off.
say brossa is 6' 6", thats 1981.2mm
at 1:8 he should be 247.65mm high
the 1:9 figure will be 220.13mm high
so thats a difference of 27.52mm, ie the dragon model brossa, stood next to the 1:8 aston would work out at 1761.04mm tall, thats a whopping 220mm difference from his true height of 1981.2mm, and brossa would appear to stand roughly 5' 9"
i'm now waiting for the obvious glib remark from donk that if i stood next to the 1:8 aston, it'd look lifelike, or that if i wanna come round n take his 1:8 aston for a spin i can, or some other 'witty comment' from his infinite stores of banter 8-)
My head hurts!
Guess you could take the 1:8th out for a spin if I put a cushion on the seat so you can see over the end of the bonnet...damn that Superleggera power bulge! )
Hi, Has anyone got any tips on how to get the headlight wires through to the wiring harness please? I have them clipped at the moment to the pins on the top underside of the front section but cannot see a simple way of getting them through to the harness?
Re Part 81 instructions 'The dashboard and steering-wheel section has two tabs that clip to small pegs on the underside of the central bar...' YET the diagrams in both the magazine and online instructions clearly show the two tabs resting ON TOP OF the central bar. After an awful lot of fiddling, I've just worked out that the verbiage is correct and it's the diagrams that are wrong. The two tabs fit underneath the bar, otherwise the steering-wheel shaft doesn't go where it's supposed to go, for one thing.
hi everyone i now have the db5 on ebay for sale selling number is 261090952719 if you care to look make me an offer all the parts and the magazines are up for grabs all you do is build it if you want to make me a privateoffer my phoe number is 07414517836 i can deliver for a contribution towards petrol i am in blackburn lancashire
Comments
TIS - "The moment you think you got it figured - you're wrong"
Formerly known as Teppo
What Type of screws are used to hold the doors to the front section (the ones mentioned in the instructions do not fit)?
Thanks
I didnt go in for it as I a) couldn't afford to commit to it, b) there were too many unanswered questions regarding details and build quality, c) the details should IMO be sharper than they are and d) I was worried the full subscription would never get printed.
Do I regret not signing up? I'm afraid to say it but, yes.
You have to take a step back john and see this model for what it is. £600 is actually very good money for the scale, models of this scale made professionally can fetch ten times that amount quite easily.
And besides, working gadgets are cool, but how often would you play with it?
Vive le droit à la libre expression! Je suis Charlie!
www.helpforheroes.org.uk
www.cancerresearchuk.org
Hi Mate,
Poor value for money??....nope not for one second when you realise that this was originally going to be a flagship Corgi collectible @ £1500 a pop. GE Fabbri were offered the Corgi model, decided it was not accurate enough, it wasn't & went for a full resculpt producing the prototype which appears on their website which was used to create the partworks model which is just a few issues from completion as they have just supplied the chassis.
This collector loves it & has actually enjoyed building it. I didn't think I would.
Regarding colour mismatch. As one of the "test subscribers" my bonnet & removable roof panel were slightly darker than the actual full release parts. I sent a photo to GE Fabbri who supplied replacement parts which match the more recent painted components perfectly & they acted quite quickly to do so.
It is only the UK subscribers at this stage who have received all the body parts, and some of them complained about the paint mismatch. I myself do not have enough parts yet - you really need to be able to put all the body parts together to see if the paint matches. Some UK subscribers also complained about a warped main frame, but it is hard to say if this is manufacturer's fault or transit damage. I have also had numerous imprefect or broken parts, but they have been replaced by the distributor.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261069268692
and you can clearly see that the door and bonnet just do not match.
Minigeff promised that this would happen, way back on page 2. A metallic paint will always change reflections according to the angle. If body and doors aren't painted when the door is in place the direction of the metallic particles will differ. Even if you use the exact same can of paint it will not match - from certain angles more (as probably in this Ebay photo) than from others but it will never match exactly from all angles.
My major concern was the proportions of the model and gaps of the split body parts. I still think that the top section is too low ("chopped") but the body parts are much better fitting than I thought. Hope to see photos of the completed thing soon.
As to the proportions, I have to agree, however the DB5 seems to be the most difficult ever to model - no manufacturer has really got this right, in any scale. This even includes the 1/8 scale Diamond Cars model, which in many respects is nowhere near this one, despite a much higher price tag.
The gaps in the body parts seem to be the least of our worries, as long as your parts are not warped and fit, it is all fine, but if I have any problems I am prepared to fill any gaps with clear resin filler tinted with silver paint - it should do the job.
There will not be 85 issues....ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!
There will however be 86 issues, the final component being a custom cloth car cover fully authorised by AML Ltd very similar to the Connoisseur style covers found on the full size jobbies. Should look really nice with the official £40 lump of black painted MDF base. Both items will be AML branded.
Well guys with just 3 issues to completion & only 2 of those issues being parts, the third being a custom cloth protective cover this is pretty much there.
Issue 82 contains a few gaffs in instruction & illustration. A biggy is to take the bulk head apart to fit it into the main body frame...you don't need to in fact its a bugger to fit the rear bulk head back in place with the two side bulk heads screwed firmly into place. The illustration showing the front screws (type C) holding the side bulk heads in place is incorrect as the holes they are directing you to use are what I believe will be mounting points for the front wings etc assembly. The screw holes for the type C screws are on the inside of the engine bay roughly front axle height.
As an example, here's a photo of the real DB5 rearview mirror:
The one supplied by Eaglemoss (GE Fabbri) is just a piece of chromed plastic that would be OK in a smaller scale, but it looks rather unrealistic in 1/8:
However, the Diamond Cars 1/8 scale EUR 4,190-5,190 model is only marginally better:
And, given the large scale, modification is rather easy. Here's my take on it:
http://www.facebook.com/EaglemossCollections
I've been following some build diaries at the partworks website and I see that this series is nearly complete - looking forward to seeing some pics of the finished models!
It's only nearly complete in the UK - the rest of us still have quite a few months to go.
I decided not to buy this partwork but I have still found it interesting to follow the various build diaries of UK subscribers:
http://www.partworkmodels.co.uk/phpBB3/viewforum.php?f=71
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/James-Bond-007-figurine-1-9-scale-GoldenEye-Pierce-Brosnan-Dragon-/150877766926?pt=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Model_Kits&hash=item232104050e
Launch tube 1, torpedoe away!!............
thing to bear in mind though is when the scale factor gets smaller, the difference between sizes gets larger.
say if i bought a 1:72 airfix kit to go on a 00 gauge railway (1:76) you'd hardly notice the difference.
however, putting a 1:9 brossa next door to a 1:8 car you'd spot the inaccuracy in his height a mile off.
say brossa is 6' 6", thats 1981.2mm
at 1:8 he should be 247.65mm high
the 1:9 figure will be 220.13mm high
so thats a difference of 27.52mm, ie the dragon model brossa, stood next to the 1:8 aston would work out at 1761.04mm tall, thats a whopping 220mm difference from his true height of 1981.2mm, and brossa would appear to stand roughly 5' 9"
i'm now waiting for the obvious glib remark from donk that if i stood next to the 1:8 aston, it'd look lifelike, or that if i wanna come round n take his 1:8 aston for a spin i can, or some other 'witty comment' from his infinite stores of banter 8-)
Vive le droit à la libre expression! Je suis Charlie!
www.helpforheroes.org.uk
www.cancerresearchuk.org
My head hurts!
Guess you could take the 1:8th out for a spin if I put a cushion on the seat so you can see over the end of the bonnet...damn that Superleggera power bulge!
Thanks