"But it's wider than that worn by Sean Connery as James Bond! By .9500000cmmmmmm!!!!"
"Ah yes, sir. The Scottish Nationalist actor. Made crep films for 30 years? As James Bond, you say?. Hmm. Let me see. Isn't that a film character from the 1960s who's being brought back starring an Irish-American TV actor? Yes, I thought so. And we're not supplying any shirts or ties to HIM!!!"
"The width, you asked, sir? It is the 1990s, you know. Just check your fecking suit lapels"
Looks great. I would have the sleeves shortened just a little bit though.
As a matter of fact, after trying on the suit in front of David Mason, he did feel the sleeves could be shortened just a hair, along with the pants waist taken in 2 inches (due to the fact that I lost a little over 10 pounds since my initial fitting), and a touch in the jacket waist. When I picked the suit up from David's local tailor, I did not notice that they neglected to do the sleeves. When I tried the suit on yesterday for the photographs, I noticed the tailors marks left on the sleeves by David. So, somehow the the local tailor missed it. Not a big deal, it can be corrected.
Something that I found as an extra plus on my Anthony Sinclair made to order suit is that the button holes on the jacket sleeves actually work. You can button and unbutton them!
DG
So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
As a matter of fact, after trying on the suit in front of David Mason, he did feel the sleeves could be shortened just a hair, along with the pants waist taken in 2 inches (due to the fact that I lost a little over 10 pounds since my initial fitting), and a touch in the jacket waist. When I picked the suit up from David's local tailor, I did not notice that they neglected to do the sleeves. When I tried the suit on yesterday for the photographs, I noticed the tailors marks left on the sleeves by David. So, somehow the the local tailor missed it. Not a big deal, it can be corrected.
Something that I found as an extra plus on my Anthony Sinclair made to order suit is that the button holes on the jacket sleeves actually work. You can button and unbutton them!
DG
It looks like the sleeves need to be shortened more than just a hair. Because the sleeves have working buttonholes, sleeve length is not something the local tailor can correct. It involves removing the sleeves and reattaching them. Only someone who makes suits can do that, not a typical alterations tailor. And if you want to keep the Anthony Sinclair sleevehead, only they can shorten the sleeve. For next time, make sure the sleeves are the perfect length before the buttonholes are cut.
As a matter of fact, after trying on the suit in front of David Mason, he did feel the sleeves could be shortened just a hair, along with the pants waist taken in 2 inches (due to the fact that I lost a little over 10 pounds since my initial fitting), and a touch in the jacket waist. When I picked the suit up from David's local tailor, I did not notice that they neglected to do the sleeves. When I tried the suit on yesterday for the photographs, I noticed the tailors marks left on the sleeves by David. So, somehow the the local tailor missed it. Not a big deal, it can be corrected.
Something that I found as an extra plus on my Anthony Sinclair made to order suit is that the button holes on the jacket sleeves actually work. You can button and unbutton them!
DG
It looks like the sleeves need to be shortened more than just a hair. Because the sleeves have working buttonholes, sleeve length is not something the local tailor can correct. It involves removing the sleeves and reattaching them. Only someone who makes suits can do that, not a typical alterations tailor. And if you want to keep the Anthony Sinclair sleevehead, only they can shorten the sleeve. For next time, make sure the sleeves are the perfect length before the buttonholes are cut.
Yeah. It'd be easier just to grow your arms, DG.
So, MattS, how long does DG need to grow his arms to make his suit a perfect fit? 1"? 2"?
"But it's wider than that worn by Sean Connery as James Bond! By .9500000cmmmmmm!!!!"
"Ah yes, sir. The Scottish Nationalist actor. Made crep films for 30 years? As James Bond, you say?. Hmm. Let me see. Isn't that a film character from the 1960s who's being brought back starring an Irish-American TV actor? Yes, I thought so. And we're not supplying any shirts or ties to HIM!!!"
"The width, you asked, sir? It is the 1990s, you know. Just check your fecking suit lapels"
LOL! The love-hate relationship T&A has with Bond amuses me to no end.
As a matter of fact, after trying on the suit in front of David Mason, he did feel the sleeves could be shortened just a hair, along with the pants waist taken in 2 inches (due to the fact that I lost a little over 10 pounds since my initial fitting), and a touch in the jacket waist. When I picked the suit up from David's local tailor, I did not notice that they neglected to do the sleeves. When I tried the suit on yesterday for the photographs, I noticed the tailors marks left on the sleeves by David. So, somehow the the local tailor missed it. Not a big deal, it can be corrected.
Something that I found as an extra plus on my Anthony Sinclair made to order suit is that the button holes on the jacket sleeves actually work. You can button and unbutton them!
DG
It looks like the sleeves need to be shortened more than just a hair. Because the sleeves have working buttonholes, sleeve length is not something the local tailor can correct. It involves removing the sleeves and reattaching them. Only someone who makes suits can do that, not a typical alterations tailor. And if you want to keep the Anthony Sinclair sleevehead, only they can shorten the sleeve. For next time, make sure the sleeves are the perfect length before the buttonholes are cut.
Yeah. It'd be easier just to grow your arms, DG.
So, MattS, how long does DG need to grow his arms to make his suit a perfect fit? 1"? 2"?
The left sleeve looks longer than the right. I'd guess at least an inch shorter, but not being there to measure I can't say. DG, have someone measure the length from the end of the sleeves to the tip of your thumb. On most people it should be about 4.5 inches. My measurement is 4.75 inches.
As a matter of fact, after trying on the suit in front of David Mason, he did feel the sleeves could be shortened just a hair, along with the pants waist taken in 2 inches (due to the fact that I lost a little over 10 pounds since my initial fitting), and a touch in the jacket waist. When I picked the suit up from David's local tailor, I did not notice that they neglected to do the sleeves. When I tried the suit on yesterday for the photographs, I noticed the tailors marks left on the sleeves by David. So, somehow the the local tailor missed it. Not a big deal, it can be corrected.
Something that I found as an extra plus on my Anthony Sinclair made to order suit is that the button holes on the jacket sleeves actually work. You can button and unbutton them!
DG
It looks like the sleeves need to be shortened more than just a hair. Because the sleeves have working buttonholes, sleeve length is not something the local tailor can correct. It involves removing the sleeves and reattaching them. Only someone who makes suits can do that, not a typical alterations tailor. And if you want to keep the Anthony Sinclair sleevehead, only they can shorten the sleeve. For next time, make sure the sleeves are the perfect length before the buttonholes are cut.
Well, the tailor that David Mason uses in NYC is not just an alterations tailor. He is a full on tailor and quite capable of making a suit. How do I know? I asked point blank. Yes, my wheels were turning. They can make anything. As for a hair, well David marked 7/16th of an inch on the left sleeve. Not literally a hair, but you get the idea. Even though the tailor is capable of removing the sleeves, it's not that drastic. There is plenty of room below the bottom of the sleeve and the buttons to make the alteration. Moreover, it looks worse than it is in certain pictures because of the way I have my hands. In one picture I almost have fists turned upward.
Nevertheless, if The suit needed what you suggest, and mind you I don't think it does, David Mason would take care of it. Don't believe me? Order a suit and find out for yourself.
So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
I'm sure David Mason would take care of whatever needs to be done. It does look like both sleeves need shortening from the images, though as you say, it could be from the way you're standing. If the sleeves are to be shortened from the ends, they both need to be shortened the same amount so the buttons are the same distance from the end of each cuff. And 1/4-1/2-inch of shirt cuff should show with your arms relaxed at your side. Perhaps take some more pictures in a more natural pose. That's the only way to show off the fit.
I'm sure David Mason would take care of whatever needs to be done. It does look like both sleeves need shortening from the images, though as you say, it could be from the way you're standing. If the sleeves are to be shortened from the ends, they both need to be shortened the same amount so the buttons are the same distance from the end of each cuff. And 1/4-1/2-inch of shirt cuff should show with your arms relaxed at your side. Perhaps take some more pictures in a more natural pose. That's the only way to show off the fit.
Yep, David marked both sleeves and the idea was to show a little shirt cuff. The suit sleeve should end at the wrist bone. However, showing shirt cuff, whether more or less is a personal preference, not a hard and fast rule.
DG
So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
Yep, David marked both sleeves and the idea was to show a little shirt cuff. The suit sleeve should end at the wrist bone. However, showing shirt cuff, whether more or less is a personal preference, not a hard and fast rule.
DG
Exactly. But if the sleeve ends at your wrist bone shirt cuff will show past it, provided your shirt sleeve and cuff fit properly. Showing shirt cuff is preference, though it's something that almost all well-dressed men do. According to many people in the business it is a rule. The film Bond's preference is to always show shirt cuff. Fleming, however, never showed cuff since he didn't wear long-sleeve shirts. There are a couple very good purposes to showing shirt cuff:
1. It prevents your jacket cuffs from fraying.
2. It keeps your jacket cuffs clean, minimizing dreadful trips to the dry cleaner (nothing is worse for clothes than dry cleaning!)
Yep, David marked both sleeves and the idea was to show a little shirt cuff. The suit sleeve should end at the wrist bone. However, showing shirt cuff, whether more or less is a personal preference, not a hard and fast rule.
DG
Exactly. But if the sleeve ends at your wrist bone shirt cuff will show past it, provided your shirt sleeve and cuff fit properly. Showing shirt cuff is preference, though it's something that almost all well-dressed men do. According to many people in the business it is a rule. The film Bond's preference is to always show shirt cuff. Fleming, however, never showed cuff since he didn't wear long-sleeve shirts. There are a couple very good purposes to showing shirt cuff:
1. It prevents your jacket cuffs from fraying.
2. It keeps your jacket cuffs clean, minimizing dreadful trips to the dry cleaner (nothing is worse for clothes than dry cleaning!)
No argument with that here.
As far as my Anthony Sinclair suit, I am very happy withy the results. I still have to have the sleeves fixed, but it is a small issue as far as I'm concerned because David Mason and I discsussed the fact that they needed to be altered. So back to the tailor, since they missed it. Apart from that, I will be ordering again from David Mason and Anthony Sinclair. In fact, I'm waiting to hear about a certain item as I write this.
DG
So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
As for the tie, I've had my silk knit for quite a number of years and I never thought of it as thick, but for the pureist...
DG
So have I, DG. And I don't, either.
Wonder if you were prompted to get yours as a result of the Mens Health article is the mid '90s, too?
Actually, no. There was an edition of British G.Q. that talked about many items in Bond's world. His tie, hat, cologne, watch strap, hair tonic, soap etc. Very cool! I love Bond ephemera, it's just so cool.
DG
So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
DG, a very nice suit, thanks for sharing this one with us. Having that said i've known as a person who just ain't a "suit man", i prefer more like tactical n comfortable outfits not to mention any brands, but not 5.11 LOL Anyway i really like the pics you provided, Very Bondian and fits you almost too nicely, hats off to you Sir - Very classy and also timeless i'd say {[]
Knowing who to trust is Everything in this business.
TIS - "The moment you think you got it figured - you're wrong"
As for the tie, I've had my silk knit for quite a number of years and I never thought of it as thick, but for the pureist...
DG
So have I, DG. And I don't, either.
Wonder if you were prompted to get yours as a result of the Mens Health article is the mid '90s, too?
Actually, no. There was an edition of British G.Q. that talked about many items in Bond's world. His tie, hat, cologne, watch strap, hair tonic, soap etc. Very cool! I love Bond ephemera, it's just so cool.
DG
Must have been a bunch of mags with similar things at the time - around when Bond was back in the news with Brozza's launch; besides Mens Health, I've got another mag somewhere on a similar theme - NOT GQ - but i can't find it or remember its name!
Like your GQ, the mags had in them Slazenger sweaters, Penfold golf balls, T&A shirts and black knitted ties, Floris 69 (erroneously), Fleurs des Alps, Trumper's Eucris, etc.
Wonder if you were prompted to get yours as a result of the Mens Health article is the mid '90s, too?
Actually, no. There was an edition of British G.Q. that talked about many items in Bond's world. His tie, hat, cologne, watch strap, hair tonic, soap etc. Very cool! I love Bond ephemera, it's just so cool.
DG
Must have been a bunch of mags with similar things at the time - around when Bond was back in the news with Brozza's launch; besides Mens Health, I've got another mag somewhere on a similar theme - NOT GQ - but i can't find it or remember its name!
Like your GQ, the mags had in them Slazenger sweaters, Penfold golf balls, T&A shirts and black knitted ties, Floris 69 (erroneously), Fleurs des Alps, Trumper's Eucris, etc.
All great stuff to have!
Yeah, I believe the GQ I am referring to was from around the time of Bosnans tenure. More like mid tenure. Yes, the famous Floris #89. That was another "giant leap" identification based on threads from one of the novels. I want to say it was from Dr. No, but don't quote me on that. After all, I'm known to have a senior moment or two.
Great stuff indeed!
DG
So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
DG, a very nice suit, thanks for sharing this one with us. Having that said i've known as a person who just ain't a "suit man", i prefer more like tactical n comfortable outfits not to mention any brands, but not 5.11 LOL Anyway i really like the pics you provided, Very Bondian and fits you almost too nicely, hats off to you Sir - Very classy and also timeless i'd say {[]
Thanks Teppo! Wow, that means a great deal coming from you. Very nice of you to say that. I really like the suit too. I think it's so cool that I can have a suit like the ones Connery wore from the original maker. I want more. Thunderball blue blazer for instance. The list is endless.
DG
So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
Oh really very good... -{
Though, correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't the Goldfinger suit have a ticket pocket as well?
Not that it detracts from the magnificence of this suit though, I love that Conduit Cut, the deeply pinched waist and slight skirting, a full chest is it? The armscye seems to be deep into the jacket. The pants are cut very nice also, I love the tapering, it really harmonizes with the jacket and the waistcoat - complete with the uncommon touch of its own lapel!
Oh really very good... -{
Though, correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't the Goldfinger suit have a ticket pocket as well?
Not that it detracts from the magnificence of this suit though, I love that Conduit Cut, the deeply pinched waist and slight skirting, a full chest is it? The armscye seems to be deep into the jacket. The pants are cut very nice also, I love the tapering, it really harmonizes with the jacket and the waistcoat - complete with the uncommon touch of its own lapel!
Quite right. However, as I said before it is "essentially" the Goldfinger Auric Stud suit. Along with the different color and the addition of cuffs, I chose to have my suit made without the ticket pocket.
DG
So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
Dear DG,
A very nice suit indeed and faithful to a 'T'.
That said, and this is probably sacrilege but I think Bond of today would either go Zegna or Dunhill.
Personally I've been wearing Zegna made to measure for years and there is something about their Italian cut that takes the fine old style of the conduit, gives it some modernity and in the right 15mil cloth, you feel like you are walking on air.
As an Englishman, I wish I could vote for the row but for me, the Italians have it for the suits, Chavet (French) for formal shirts and silk knitted ties, Berluti and Tods for shoes and casual kit either from Dunhill, Zegna or Loro Piana.
Clooney looked so much the modern Bond in "The American" and his style was so cool.
Regards,
Bentley
Dear DG,
A very nice suit indeed and faithful to a 'T'.
That said, and this is probably sacrilege but I think Bond of today would either go Zegna or Dunhill.
Personally I've been wearing Zegna made to measure for years and there is something about their Italian cut that takes the fine old style of the conduit, gives it some modernity and in the right 15mil cloth, you feel like you are walking on air.
As an Englishman, I wish I could vote for the row but for me, the Italians have it for the suits, Chavet (French) for formal shirts and silk knitted ties, Berluti and Tods for shoes and casual kit either from Dunhill, Zegna or Loro Piana.
Clooney looked so much the modern Bond in "The American" and his style was so cool.
Regards,
Bentley
I have never been an Italian suit kind of guy. I much prefer traditional American style clothing. Think Brooks Brothers and J. Press. You know, the sack suit with natural shoulders, three buttons rolled to two. I hear tell that the new movie The Great Gatsby with DiCaprio will feature costuming/clothing by Brooks Brothers.
That said, I've always wanted an Anthony Sinclair suit. To me, Connery will always be my favorite Bond and his clothing style does not date. Anthony Sinclair back in the day was also favored by military men, so the clothing, to me, is evocative of a military man. It's sort of infuses one with a military bearing while being in civilian clothes.
I will never be an Italian suit kind of guy. But, i can understand why you like it. For me it's either American "trad","prep", or "ivy" as it's variously referred to or the paired down Conduit Cut by Anthony Sinclair or perhaps one of the clothiers on Saville Row in the future.
DG
So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
That said, I've always wanted an Anthony Sinclair suit. To me, Connery will always be my favorite Bond and his clothing style does not date. Anthony Sinclair back in the day was also favored by military men, so the clothing, to me, is evocative of a military man. It's sort of infuses one with a military bearing while being in civilian clothes.
I got more of the impression that military men liked Sinclair's suits because they weren't like a military uniform. Sinclair's suits didn't have the padded shoulders of a military cut, they weren't so heavy and stiff, they didn't button up so high, and they didn't fit so closely. But the military men didn't want the extreme opposite of Anderson & Sheppard.
That said, I've always wanted an Anthony Sinclair suit. To me, Connery will always be my favorite Bond and his clothing style does not date. Anthony Sinclair back in the day was also favored by military men, so the clothing, to me, is evocative of a military man. It's sort of infuses one with a military bearing while being in civilian clothes.
I got more of the impression that military men liked Sinclair's suits because they weren't like a military uniform. Sinclair's suits didn't have the padded shoulders of a military cut, they weren't so heavy and stiff, they didn't button up so high, and they didn't fit so closely. But the military men didn't want the extreme opposite of Anderson & Sheppard.
I was not really commenting on why military men favored Anthony Sinclair suits, although I'll bet it was because they were paired down and un-fussy. I was commenting that Anthony Sinclair was favored by military men, and that to me, the suits bespeak a military air.
However beyond that, have you ever met a Marine or former Marine? They are very fastidious about how they dress in and out of uniform, so...
DG
So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
That said, I've always wanted an Anthony Sinclair suit. To me, Connery will always be my favorite Bond and his clothing style does not date. Anthony Sinclair back in the day was also favored by military men, so the clothing, to me, is evocative of a military man. It's sort of infuses one with a military bearing while being in civilian clothes.
I got more of the impression that military men liked Sinclair's suits because they weren't like a military uniform. Sinclair's suits didn't have the padded shoulders of a military cut, they weren't so heavy and stiff, they didn't button up so high, and they didn't fit so closely. But the military men didn't want the extreme opposite of Anderson & Sheppard.
I was not really commenting on why military men favored Anthony Sinclair suits, although I'll bet it was because they were paired down and un-fussy. I was commenting that Anthony Sinclair was favored by military men, and that to me, the suits bespeak a military air.
However beyond that, have you ever met a Marine or former Marine? They are very fastidious about how they dress in and out of uniform, so...
DG
I haven't met a Marine besides passing them in uniform on the street, I just know people from the Army or Navy. The amount they care about clothes varies. I find that more often the people who wear unfussy clothes are the people who don't care about clothes as much. Of course that's not always true, but the James Bond character in the novels wasn't unusually interested—though he had a few unusual tastes—in the way he dressed. I often hear Anthony Sinclair's suits described as paired-down and unfussy, but I still can't see how that's unique compared to so many other Savile Row tailors. Perhaps it's due to the middle-of-the-road cut between opposite stylistic ends of Savile Row. Though they weren't fussy like Roger Moore's Cyril Castle suits were in the late 60s, few tailors made suits like that anyway. Some things on Sinclair's suits could have been considered a little fussy, like the occasional ticket pocket, gauntlet cuffs on the dinner suit and double-vents on a single-breasted jacket (it hadn't become standard yet).
I'm not sure I get you on how some ex-military men wearing Sinclair's suits gives the suits a military air since the suits are quite far removed from the military cut, which has many proponents on Savile Row. I'm sure plenty of ex-military officers have gone to the same tailors who made their uniforms, like Dege & Skinner or Henry Poole, so it's more likely that ex-military went to Sinclair to get a suit without that chiseled military look. The "why military men favored Anthony Sinclair" is what ultimately tells me how un-military-like Sinclair's suits were. It also seems that James Bond tried to avoid the military look by wearing single-breasted suits instead of the double-breasted uniforms he worn in the Navy. The new Anthony Sinclair's Special Order model is a bit closer to the military style than what Connery wore.
I got more of the impression that military men liked Sinclair's suits because they weren't like a military uniform. Sinclair's suits didn't have the padded shoulders of a military cut, they weren't so heavy and stiff, they didn't button up so high, and they didn't fit so closely. But the military men didn't want the extreme opposite of Anderson & Sheppard.
I was not really commenting on why military men favored Anthony Sinclair suits, although I'll bet it was because they were paired down and un-fussy. I was commenting that Anthony Sinclair was favored by military men, and that to me, the suits bespeak a military air.
However beyond that, have you ever met a Marine or former Marine? They are very fastidious about how they dress in and out of uniform, so...
DG
I haven't met a Marine besides passing them in uniform on the street, I just know people from the Army or Navy. The amount they care about clothes varies. I find that more often the people who wear unfussy clothes are the people who don't care about clothes as much. Of course that's not always true, but the James Bond character in the novels wasn't unusually interested—though he had a few unusual tastes—in the way he dressed. I often hear Anthony Sinclair's suits described as paired-down and unfussy, but I still can't see how that's unique compared to so many other Savile Row tailors. Perhaps it's due to the middle-of-the-road cut between opposite stylistic ends of Savile Row. Though they weren't fussy like Roger Moore's Cyril Castle suits were in the late 60s, few tailors made suits like that anyway. Some things on Sinclair's suits could have been considered a little fussy, like the occasional ticket pocket, gauntlet cuffs on the dinner suit and double-vents on a single-breasted jacket (it hadn't become standard yet).
I'm not sure I get you on how some ex-military men wearing Sinclair's suits gives the suits a military air since the suits are quite far removed from the military cut, which has many proponents on Savile Row. I'm sure plenty of ex-military officers have gone to the same tailors who made their uniforms, like Dege & Skinner or Henry Poole, so it's more likely that ex-military went to Sinclair to get a suit without that chiseled military look. The "why military men favored Anthony Sinclair" is what ultimately tells me how un-military-like Sinclair's suits were. It also seems that James Bond tried to avoid the military look by wearing single-breasted suits instead of the double-breasted uniforms he worn in the Navy. The new Anthony Sinclair's Special Order model is a bit closer to the military style than what Connery wore.
We don't have a definitive answer as to why military men favored Anthony Sinclair suits. You feel it's because a military man might want a more relaxed look, while I feel the opposite. But I have asked David Mason the question, so we shall see. What you've offered is merely speculation. I've known a lot of military men myself and work with some still. Hell, one of my best friends that I've known since kindergarten flies Blackhawk helicopters in the Army and is career Army. There is definitely a fastidiousness in civilian dress, particularly for a career military man. "Giglines" have to be straight, belt buckles "two blocked", no "Irish pennants" and so on. Also, just because one was in the Navy does not mean you want to wear double breasted blazers or suits all the time either. I wore them as a Cadet/Midshipmen while studying to be a Merchant Marine Officer, and I don't favor them now. Why? Because they don't look good any other way except fully buttoned.
Of course, there could be an altogether different answer as to why. It may be that Anthony Sinclair being on Conduit Street (in the past), and not on the Saville Row was a less expensive alternative. However, being fairly close in proximity that may be a stretch.
DG
So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
We don't have a definitive answer as to why military men favored Anthony Sinclair suits. You feel it's because a military man might want a more relaxed look, while I feel the opposite. But I have asked David Mason the question, so we shall see. What you've offered is merely speculation. I've known a lot of military men myself and work with some still. Hell, one of my best friends that I've known since kindergarten flies Blackhawk helicopters in the Army and is career Army. There is definitely a fastidiousness in civilian dress, particularly for a career military man. "Giglines" have to be straight, belt buckles "two blocked", no "Irish pennants" and so on. Also, just because one was in the Navy does not mean you want to wear double breasted blazers or suits all the time either. I wore them as a Cadet/Midshipmen while studying to be a Merchant Marine Officer, and I don't favor them now. Why? Because they don't look good any other way except fully buttoned.
Of course, there could be an altogether different answer as to why. It may be that Anthony Sinclair being on Conduit Street (in the past), and not on the Saville Row was a less expensive alternative. However, being fairly close in proximity that may be a stretch.
DG
That's very interesting about the military people you know. I can't say that any of the military men I know are like that.
I do not know the exact reason why some military men like Anthony Sinclair. But I can say it's not because they wanted something with a military look. The cut of the jacket isn't much at all like a military cut, but on the other hand the trousers are. A relaxed jacket with neat trousers. Just the trousers alone don't give the suit a military-look to me. A number of tailors on Savile Row have defined the military cut, and they cut their lounge suits in the same style. A military look is defined by what officers wear on duty, not their mufti.
We don't have a definitive answer as to why military men favored Anthony Sinclair suits. You feel it's because a military man might want a more relaxed look, while I feel the opposite. But I have asked David Mason the question, so we shall see. What you've offered is merely speculation. I've known a lot of military men myself and work with some still. Hell, one of my best friends that I've known since kindergarten flies Blackhawk helicopters in the Army and is career Army. There is definitely a fastidiousness in civilian dress, particularly for a career military man. "Giglines" have to be straight, belt buckles "two blocked", no "Irish pennants" and so on. Also, just because one was in the Navy does not mean you want to wear double breasted blazers or suits all the time either. I wore them as a Cadet/Midshipmen while studying to be a Merchant Marine Officer, and I don't favor them now. Why? Because they don't look good any other way except fully buttoned.
Of course, there could be an altogether different answer as to why. It may be that Anthony Sinclair being on Conduit Street (in the past), and not on the Saville Row was a less expensive alternative. However, being fairly close in proximity that may be a stretch.
DG
That's very interesting about the military people you know. I can't say that any of the military men I know are like that.
I do not know the exact reason why some military men like Anthony Sinclair. But I can say it's not because they wanted something with a military look. The cut of the jacket isn't much at all like a military cut, but on the other hand the trousers are. A relaxed jacket with neat trousers. Just the trousers alone don't give the suit a military-look to me. A number of tailors on Savile Row have defined the military cut, and they cut their lounge suits in the same style. A military look is defined by what officers wear on duty, not their mufti.
Having a military air is not the same thing as a military cut, as you put it. You are confusing a specific "cut" with an overall look. Again, "paired down an un-fussy". Long associated with Anthony Sinclair regardless of how you "feel" about it. Also, I don't particularly agree that Sinclair's jackets are particularly relaxed, not when compared to the natural shoulder of the sack suit. But hey, that's me.
DG
So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
We don't have a definitive answer as to why military men favored Anthony Sinclair suits. You feel it's because a military man might want a more relaxed look, while I feel the opposite. But I have asked David Mason the question, so we shall see. What you've offered is merely speculation. I've known a lot of military men myself and work with some still. Hell, one of my best friends that I've known since kindergarten flies Blackhawk helicopters in the Army and is career Army. There is definitely a fastidiousness in civilian dress, particularly for a career military man. "Giglines" have to be straight, belt buckles "two blocked", no "Irish pennants" and so on. Also, just because one was in the Navy does not mean you want to wear double breasted blazers or suits all the time either. I wore them as a Cadet/Midshipmen while studying to be a Merchant Marine Officer, and I don't favor them now. Why? Because they don't look good any other way except fully buttoned.
Of course, there could be an altogether different answer as to why. It may be that Anthony Sinclair being on Conduit Street (in the past), and not on the Saville Row was a less expensive alternative. However, being fairly close in proximity that may be a stretch.
DG
That's very interesting about the military people you know. I can't say that any of the military men I know are like that.
I do not know the exact reason why some military men like Anthony Sinclair. But I can say it's not because they wanted something with a military look. The cut of the jacket isn't much at all like a military cut, but on the other hand the trousers are. A relaxed jacket with neat trousers. Just the trousers alone don't give the suit a military-look to me. A number of tailors on Savile Row have defined the military cut, and they cut their lounge suits in the same style. A military look is defined by what officers wear on duty, not their mufti.
Having a military air is not the same thing as a military cut, as you put it. You are confusing a specific "cut" with an overall look. Again, "paired down an un-fussy". Long associated with Anthony Sinclair regardless of how you "feel" about it. Also, I don't particularly agree that Sinclair's jackets are particularly relaxed, not when compared to the natural shoulder of the sack suit. But hey, that's me.
DG
I associate the cut more with the overall air than you do. The silhouette is the best way I know of to assess a suit since that defines a suit more than anything else. That's the way I see. Fabrics and details could also make something more military to me, but we didn't see much of that in Connery's clothes except for his cavalry twill trousers. Moore's safari clothes had a military air, though only the sports coat in The Spy Who Loved Me had a more military-like cut. As for the shoulder, Sinclair used no shoulder padding at all, so it was still quite natural. He didn't like a built-up, military shoulder. My guess is that Sinclair used a stiffer canvas than Brooks Brothers did so it wouldn't have been quite as natural. As far as Savile Row tailoring goes, Sinclair's suits were more relaxed, just not as relaxed as Anderson & Sheppard. Or as relaxed as late 80s Armani.
Can't say that I see very much difference there except perhaps the lapels. Beyond that, the pattern on the second jacket is a bit garish for me. Don't know too many military men who would wear it on this side of the pond.
DG
So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
Comments
"But it's wider than that worn by Sean Connery as James Bond! By .9500000cmmmmmm!!!!"
"Ah yes, sir. The Scottish Nationalist actor. Made crep films for 30 years? As James Bond, you say?. Hmm. Let me see. Isn't that a film character from the 1960s who's being brought back starring an Irish-American TV actor? Yes, I thought so. And we're not supplying any shirts or ties to HIM!!!"
"The width, you asked, sir? It is the 1990s, you know. Just check your fecking suit lapels"
As a matter of fact, after trying on the suit in front of David Mason, he did feel the sleeves could be shortened just a hair, along with the pants waist taken in 2 inches (due to the fact that I lost a little over 10 pounds since my initial fitting), and a touch in the jacket waist. When I picked the suit up from David's local tailor, I did not notice that they neglected to do the sleeves. When I tried the suit on yesterday for the photographs, I noticed the tailors marks left on the sleeves by David. So, somehow the the local tailor missed it. Not a big deal, it can be corrected.
Something that I found as an extra plus on my Anthony Sinclair made to order suit is that the button holes on the jacket sleeves actually work. You can button and unbutton them!
DG
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
It looks like the sleeves need to be shortened more than just a hair. Because the sleeves have working buttonholes, sleeve length is not something the local tailor can correct. It involves removing the sleeves and reattaching them. Only someone who makes suits can do that, not a typical alterations tailor. And if you want to keep the Anthony Sinclair sleevehead, only they can shorten the sleeve. For next time, make sure the sleeves are the perfect length before the buttonholes are cut.
Yeah. It'd be easier just to grow your arms, DG.
So, MattS, how long does DG need to grow his arms to make his suit a perfect fit? 1"? 2"?
LOL! The love-hate relationship T&A has with Bond amuses me to no end.
The left sleeve looks longer than the right. I'd guess at least an inch shorter, but not being there to measure I can't say. DG, have someone measure the length from the end of the sleeves to the tip of your thumb. On most people it should be about 4.5 inches. My measurement is 4.75 inches.
Well, the tailor that David Mason uses in NYC is not just an alterations tailor. He is a full on tailor and quite capable of making a suit. How do I know? I asked point blank. Yes, my wheels were turning. They can make anything. As for a hair, well David marked 7/16th of an inch on the left sleeve. Not literally a hair, but you get the idea. Even though the tailor is capable of removing the sleeves, it's not that drastic. There is plenty of room below the bottom of the sleeve and the buttons to make the alteration. Moreover, it looks worse than it is in certain pictures because of the way I have my hands. In one picture I almost have fists turned upward.
Nevertheless, if The suit needed what you suggest, and mind you I don't think it does, David Mason would take care of it. Don't believe me? Order a suit and find out for yourself.
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
Yep, David marked both sleeves and the idea was to show a little shirt cuff. The suit sleeve should end at the wrist bone. However, showing shirt cuff, whether more or less is a personal preference, not a hard and fast rule.
DG
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
Exactly. But if the sleeve ends at your wrist bone shirt cuff will show past it, provided your shirt sleeve and cuff fit properly. Showing shirt cuff is preference, though it's something that almost all well-dressed men do. According to many people in the business it is a rule. The film Bond's preference is to always show shirt cuff. Fleming, however, never showed cuff since he didn't wear long-sleeve shirts. There are a couple very good purposes to showing shirt cuff:
1. It prevents your jacket cuffs from fraying.
2. It keeps your jacket cuffs clean, minimizing dreadful trips to the dry cleaner (nothing is worse for clothes than dry cleaning!)
No argument with that here.
As far as my Anthony Sinclair suit, I am very happy withy the results. I still have to have the sleeves fixed, but it is a small issue as far as I'm concerned because David Mason and I discsussed the fact that they needed to be altered. So back to the tailor, since they missed it. Apart from that, I will be ordering again from David Mason and Anthony Sinclair. In fact, I'm waiting to hear about a certain item as I write this.
DG
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
Actually, no. There was an edition of British G.Q. that talked about many items in Bond's world. His tie, hat, cologne, watch strap, hair tonic, soap etc. Very cool! I love Bond ephemera, it's just so cool.
DG
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
TIS - "The moment you think you got it figured - you're wrong"
Formerly known as Teppo
Must have been a bunch of mags with similar things at the time - around when Bond was back in the news with Brozza's launch; besides Mens Health, I've got another mag somewhere on a similar theme - NOT GQ - but i can't find it or remember its name!
Like your GQ, the mags had in them Slazenger sweaters, Penfold golf balls, T&A shirts and black knitted ties, Floris 69 (erroneously), Fleurs des Alps, Trumper's Eucris, etc.
All great stuff to have!
Yeah, I believe the GQ I am referring to was from around the time of Bosnans tenure. More like mid tenure. Yes, the famous Floris #89. That was another "giant leap" identification based on threads from one of the novels. I want to say it was from Dr. No, but don't quote me on that. After all, I'm known to have a senior moment or two.
Great stuff indeed!
DG
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
Thanks Teppo! Wow, that means a great deal coming from you. Very nice of you to say that. I really like the suit too. I think it's so cool that I can have a suit like the ones Connery wore from the original maker. I want more. Thunderball blue blazer for instance. The list is endless.
DG
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
Though, correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't the Goldfinger suit have a ticket pocket as well?
Not that it detracts from the magnificence of this suit though, I love that Conduit Cut, the deeply pinched waist and slight skirting, a full chest is it? The armscye seems to be deep into the jacket. The pants are cut very nice also, I love the tapering, it really harmonizes with the jacket and the waistcoat - complete with the uncommon touch of its own lapel!
Quite right. However, as I said before it is "essentially" the Goldfinger Auric Stud suit. Along with the different color and the addition of cuffs, I chose to have my suit made without the ticket pocket.
DG
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
A very nice suit indeed and faithful to a 'T'.
That said, and this is probably sacrilege but I think Bond of today would either go Zegna or Dunhill.
Personally I've been wearing Zegna made to measure for years and there is something about their Italian cut that takes the fine old style of the conduit, gives it some modernity and in the right 15mil cloth, you feel like you are walking on air.
As an Englishman, I wish I could vote for the row but for me, the Italians have it for the suits, Chavet (French) for formal shirts and silk knitted ties, Berluti and Tods for shoes and casual kit either from Dunhill, Zegna or Loro Piana.
Clooney looked so much the modern Bond in "The American" and his style was so cool.
Regards,
Bentley
I have never been an Italian suit kind of guy. I much prefer traditional American style clothing. Think Brooks Brothers and J. Press. You know, the sack suit with natural shoulders, three buttons rolled to two. I hear tell that the new movie The Great Gatsby with DiCaprio will feature costuming/clothing by Brooks Brothers.
That said, I've always wanted an Anthony Sinclair suit. To me, Connery will always be my favorite Bond and his clothing style does not date. Anthony Sinclair back in the day was also favored by military men, so the clothing, to me, is evocative of a military man. It's sort of infuses one with a military bearing while being in civilian clothes.
I will never be an Italian suit kind of guy. But, i can understand why you like it. For me it's either American "trad","prep", or "ivy" as it's variously referred to or the paired down Conduit Cut by Anthony Sinclair or perhaps one of the clothiers on Saville Row in the future.
DG
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
I got more of the impression that military men liked Sinclair's suits because they weren't like a military uniform. Sinclair's suits didn't have the padded shoulders of a military cut, they weren't so heavy and stiff, they didn't button up so high, and they didn't fit so closely. But the military men didn't want the extreme opposite of Anderson & Sheppard.
I was not really commenting on why military men favored Anthony Sinclair suits, although I'll bet it was because they were paired down and un-fussy. I was commenting that Anthony Sinclair was favored by military men, and that to me, the suits bespeak a military air.
However beyond that, have you ever met a Marine or former Marine? They are very fastidious about how they dress in and out of uniform, so...
DG
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
I haven't met a Marine besides passing them in uniform on the street, I just know people from the Army or Navy. The amount they care about clothes varies. I find that more often the people who wear unfussy clothes are the people who don't care about clothes as much. Of course that's not always true, but the James Bond character in the novels wasn't unusually interested—though he had a few unusual tastes—in the way he dressed. I often hear Anthony Sinclair's suits described as paired-down and unfussy, but I still can't see how that's unique compared to so many other Savile Row tailors. Perhaps it's due to the middle-of-the-road cut between opposite stylistic ends of Savile Row. Though they weren't fussy like Roger Moore's Cyril Castle suits were in the late 60s, few tailors made suits like that anyway. Some things on Sinclair's suits could have been considered a little fussy, like the occasional ticket pocket, gauntlet cuffs on the dinner suit and double-vents on a single-breasted jacket (it hadn't become standard yet).
I'm not sure I get you on how some ex-military men wearing Sinclair's suits gives the suits a military air since the suits are quite far removed from the military cut, which has many proponents on Savile Row. I'm sure plenty of ex-military officers have gone to the same tailors who made their uniforms, like Dege & Skinner or Henry Poole, so it's more likely that ex-military went to Sinclair to get a suit without that chiseled military look. The "why military men favored Anthony Sinclair" is what ultimately tells me how un-military-like Sinclair's suits were. It also seems that James Bond tried to avoid the military look by wearing single-breasted suits instead of the double-breasted uniforms he worn in the Navy. The new Anthony Sinclair's Special Order model is a bit closer to the military style than what Connery wore.
We don't have a definitive answer as to why military men favored Anthony Sinclair suits. You feel it's because a military man might want a more relaxed look, while I feel the opposite. But I have asked David Mason the question, so we shall see. What you've offered is merely speculation. I've known a lot of military men myself and work with some still. Hell, one of my best friends that I've known since kindergarten flies Blackhawk helicopters in the Army and is career Army. There is definitely a fastidiousness in civilian dress, particularly for a career military man. "Giglines" have to be straight, belt buckles "two blocked", no "Irish pennants" and so on. Also, just because one was in the Navy does not mean you want to wear double breasted blazers or suits all the time either. I wore them as a Cadet/Midshipmen while studying to be a Merchant Marine Officer, and I don't favor them now. Why? Because they don't look good any other way except fully buttoned.
Of course, there could be an altogether different answer as to why. It may be that Anthony Sinclair being on Conduit Street (in the past), and not on the Saville Row was a less expensive alternative. However, being fairly close in proximity that may be a stretch.
DG
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
That's very interesting about the military people you know. I can't say that any of the military men I know are like that.
I do not know the exact reason why some military men like Anthony Sinclair. But I can say it's not because they wanted something with a military look. The cut of the jacket isn't much at all like a military cut, but on the other hand the trousers are. A relaxed jacket with neat trousers. Just the trousers alone don't give the suit a military-look to me. A number of tailors on Savile Row have defined the military cut, and they cut their lounge suits in the same style. A military look is defined by what officers wear on duty, not their mufti.
Having a military air is not the same thing as a military cut, as you put it. You are confusing a specific "cut" with an overall look. Again, "paired down an un-fussy". Long associated with Anthony Sinclair regardless of how you "feel" about it. Also, I don't particularly agree that Sinclair's jackets are particularly relaxed, not when compared to the natural shoulder of the sack suit. But hey, that's me.
DG
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
I associate the cut more with the overall air than you do. The silhouette is the best way I know of to assess a suit since that defines a suit more than anything else. That's the way I see. Fabrics and details could also make something more military to me, but we didn't see much of that in Connery's clothes except for his cavalry twill trousers. Moore's safari clothes had a military air, though only the sports coat in The Spy Who Loved Me had a more military-like cut. As for the shoulder, Sinclair used no shoulder padding at all, so it was still quite natural. He didn't like a built-up, military shoulder. My guess is that Sinclair used a stiffer canvas than Brooks Brothers did so it wouldn't have been quite as natural. As far as Savile Row tailoring goes, Sinclair's suits were more relaxed, just not as relaxed as Anderson & Sheppard. Or as relaxed as late 80s Armani.
DG
"People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.