Bond Tuxedo

2

Comments

  • othertravelothertravel Posts: 438MI6 Agent
    Matt S wrote:
    jwood wrote:
    What is everyone's opinion on Brioni vs. Tom Ford. It seems like Brioni dinner suits are more expensive than those of Tom Ford, but I was curious to know how everyone would compare them generally (quality, cut, style, etc...).

    To echo what some other people have said above, is the goal to get the exact same tuxedo that Bond wore or to get the one that looks best for your body type? Tom Ford and Brioni's tuxedos look different. Would one of them look better on you than the other? Probably. Would one look like it's the best one for you period? Possibly, but unlikely.

    If you have the money to buy a Brioni or Tom Ford then you have the money to get a tailor to make one for you, and that will look far better on you than a Brioni or Tom Ford due to fit (and possibly style, which a good tailor could recreate anyway). Unless you're going to be flashing the label at everyone, which is not very gentlemanly, there isn't really much advantage to buying a Tom Ford or Brioni IMHO.

    Excellent points. If someone wants the Tom Ford look, there are few other choices than Tom Ford. Bespoke tailors make suits in their own style and would either not be able to copy Ford or not willing to. But for something like the Tom Ford look bespoke, there are the tailors who inspired Ford, like Joe Morgan or Edward Sexton, and they still operate. Though they won't make something like the Skyfall suits, nor would any other respectable tailor. For Brioni's look bespoke, there are bespoke Roman tailors who can do something similar. Those would all be money better spent than spending thousands on an off-the-peg suit.
    There are very few suits that can replicate the Tom Ford look.

    You could go bespoke, but it's doubtful that a tailor could (or would want to) replicate the silhouette of a TF suit. Most bespoke tailors employ a "House Cut" which they don't deviate from (e.g. Anderson & Sheppard).

    For one, TF suits use 3 layers of canvass in the chest piece to give it a prominent look. It's a common misconception Tom Ford suits have strong shoulders; it's in the chest. Relative to other garments, the TF shoulder padding is minimal (compare to RL Purple Label or Black Label, which have strong-shoulder models).

    Secondly, TF suits are made to Zegna Couture standards, and are worked on by some of the best cutters in the business today.

    If you want the TF look, buy TF. The only other closest approximation would an Edward Sexton/Tommy Nutter piece.

    Brioni is a different beast altogether. Excellent quality, but not very similar to Tom Ford's style; more traditional.
  • jwoodjwood Posts: 17MI6 Agent
    Matt S wrote:

    To echo what some other people have said above, is the goal to get the exact same tuxedo that Bond wore or to get the one that looks best for your body type? Tom Ford and Brioni's tuxedos look different. Would one of them look better on you than the other? Probably. Would one look like it's the best one for you period? Possibly, but unlikely.

    If you have the money to buy a Brioni or Tom Ford then you have the money to get a tailor to make one for you, and that will look far better on you than a Brioni or Tom Ford due to fit (and possibly style, which a good tailor could recreate anyway). Unless you're going to be flashing the label at everyone, which is not very gentlemanly, there isn't really much advantage to buying a Tom Ford or Brioni IMHO.

    Excellent points. If someone wants the Tom Ford look, there are few other choices than Tom Ford. Bespoke tailors make suits in their own style and would either not be able to copy Ford or not willing to. But for something like the Tom Ford look bespoke, there are the tailors who inspired Ford, like Joe Morgan or Edward Sexton, and they still operate. Though they won't make something like the Skyfall suits, nor would any other respectable tailor. For Brioni's look bespoke, there are bespoke Roman tailors who can do something similar. Those would all be money better spent than spending thousands on an off-the-peg suit.
    There are very few suits that can replicate the Tom Ford look.

    You could go bespoke, but it's doubtful that a tailor could (or would want to) replicate the silhouette of a TF suit. Most bespoke tailors employ a "House Cut" which they don't deviate from (e.g. Anderson & Sheppard).

    For one, TF suits use 3 layers of canvass in the chest piece to give it a prominent look. It's a common misconception Tom Ford suits have strong shoulders; it's in the chest. Relative to other garments, the TF shoulder padding is minimal (compare to RL Purple Label or Black Label, which have strong-shoulder models).

    Secondly, TF suits are made to Zegna Couture standards, and are worked on by some of the best cutters in the business today.

    If you want the TF look, buy TF. The only other closest approximation would an Edward Sexton/Tommy Nutter piece.

    Brioni is a different beast altogether. Excellent quality, but not very similar to Tom Ford's style; more traditional.

    Another issue for me is that I live in the U.S. and also not in New York. Finding a well-known, respected tailor proves difficult. I will be traveling to New York in a month. Does anyone have recommendations on a tailor there?
  • Matt SMatt S Oh Cult Voodoo ShopPosts: 6,610MI6 Agent
    Matt S wrote:

    To echo what some other people have said above, is the goal to get the exact same tuxedo that Bond wore or to get the one that looks best for your body type? Tom Ford and Brioni's tuxedos look different. Would one of them look better on you than the other? Probably. Would one look like it's the best one for you period? Possibly, but unlikely.

    If you have the money to buy a Brioni or Tom Ford then you have the money to get a tailor to make one for you, and that will look far better on you than a Brioni or Tom Ford due to fit (and possibly style, which a good tailor could recreate anyway). Unless you're going to be flashing the label at everyone, which is not very gentlemanly, there isn't really much advantage to buying a Tom Ford or Brioni IMHO.

    Excellent points. If someone wants the Tom Ford look, there are few other choices than Tom Ford. Bespoke tailors make suits in their own style and would either not be able to copy Ford or not willing to. But for something like the Tom Ford look bespoke, there are the tailors who inspired Ford, like Joe Morgan or Edward Sexton, and they still operate. Though they won't make something like the Skyfall suits, nor would any other respectable tailor. For Brioni's look bespoke, there are bespoke Roman tailors who can do something similar. Those would all be money better spent than spending thousands on an off-the-peg suit.
    There are very few suits that can replicate the Tom Ford look.

    You could go bespoke, but it's doubtful that a tailor could (or would want to) replicate the silhouette of a TF suit. Most bespoke tailors employ a "House Cut" which they don't deviate from (e.g. Anderson & Sheppard)...

    If you want the TF look, buy TF. The only other closest approximation would an Edward Sexton/Tommy Nutter piece.

    This is pretty much what I just said. Tom Ford is copying Joe Morgan and Edward Sexton. It's the Nutters look.
    Visit my blog, Bond Suits
  • othertravelothertravel Posts: 438MI6 Agent
    Matt S wrote:

    This is pretty much what I just said. Tom Ford is copying Joe Morgan and Edward Sexton. It's the Nutters look.

    Sorry, I was in the middle of typing my response when you submitted yours!

    But in all honesty, if you want the Skyfall look, go for it. And if you find it on discount, all the better!
  • jwoodjwood Posts: 17MI6 Agent
    Matt S wrote:

    This is pretty much what I just said. Tom Ford is copying Joe Morgan and Edward Sexton. It's the Nutters look.

    Sorry, I was in the middle of typing my response when you submitted yours!

    But in all honesty, if you want the Skyfall look, go for it. And if you find it on discount, all the better!

    This all goes back to my original dilemma. How do you get the Skyfall look if the tuxedo offered by TF has the rolled satin cuffs?
  • Thunderbird 2Thunderbird 2 East of Cardiff, Wales.Posts: 2,817MI6 Agent
    edited November 2013
    We are going round in circles.

    Ask Tom Ford directly. If they are not willing to do it, (I get the impression from what you are saying they aren't) accept you will have to have a facsimile made that is based on that look at best. If you don't want a facsimile and cant get an original in the Skyfall style either, then I say consider something else instead of driving yourself crazy. For the amount of money involved it should not be that hard.

    If all else fails, pick up the phone... The following sites are research, not recommendations. Please note - most good tailors need more than one suit fitting with you. (Ie, you will need to book more than one appointment with them to check measurements, the cut etc.). Often these repeat appointments can be weeks apart, depending how fast the suit is made.
    If all else fails, ask online friends who you can go to for their recommendations, and then go with them to their tailor.


    New York

    https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Tom+Ford+New+York&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&gws_rd=cr&ei=Yg2EUvLDFMy7hAfYhIHwDg

    http://newyork.cbslocal.com/top-lists/5-best-tailors-in-new-york/
    http://www.asuitthatfits.com/us/?gclid=CM_OkO_24roCFQ7LtAodWF8Ahw
    http://www.kingstailorny.com/index.php
    http://www.beyondbespoke.com/


    Dallas

    https://maps.google.co.uk/maps?oe=utf-8&client=firefox-a&ie=UTF-8&q=Tailors+in+Dallas&fb=1&gl=uk&hq=Tailors&hnear=0x864c19f77b45974b:0xb9ec9ba4f647678f,Dallas,+TX,+USA&ei=GRGEUuSCDsmthQfc4oGQBQ&ved=0CMoBEMgT

    http://www.bing.com/entities/search?q=Best+Tailors+Dallas&filters=segment%3a%22local%22&qpvt=Best+Tailors+Dallas&FORM=LARE


    Good luck.
    This is Thunderbird 2, how can I be of assistance?
  • Matt SMatt S Oh Cult Voodoo ShopPosts: 6,610MI6 Agent
    jwood wrote:
    Matt S wrote:

    This is pretty much what I just said. Tom Ford is copying Joe Morgan and Edward Sexton. It's the Nutters look.

    Sorry, I was in the middle of typing my response when you submitted yours!

    But in all honesty, if you want the Skyfall look, go for it. And if you find it on discount, all the better!

    This all goes back to my original dilemma. How do you get the Skyfall look if the tuxedo offered by TF has the rolled satin cuffs?

    This isn't a problem. Gauntlet cuffs are added onto the sleeves and a tailor can remove them. If you went to Tom Ford and they altered the sleeve length for you, they would remove the gauntlet cuffs, adjust the sleeve length, sew the buttons and buttonholes on the sleeves and, finally, sew the gauntlet cuffs back on. Tom Ford may not allow the tailors at his stores to let a dinner jacket out of the shop without the gauntlet cuffs, but if you bring it to your own tailor he can remove the cuffs for you. This is assuming that Tom Ford's gauntlet cuffs are made like everyone else's.

    Personally, I love the traditional look of gauntlet cuffs, and they have quite a history in the Bond films. Not to mention, Roger Moore wore them a lot in The Saint, in The Persuaders and in The Man With the Golden Gun.
    Visit my blog, Bond Suits
  • othertravelothertravel Posts: 438MI6 Agent
    The Tom Ford/Skyfall look is abut more than the cuffs (which can be removed, as mentioned above). It's also about the silhouette.

    That said, it might even look better on you than DC; the suiting was too small on him in Skyfall.
  • Matt SMatt S Oh Cult Voodoo ShopPosts: 6,610MI6 Agent
    The Tom Ford/Skyfall look is abut more than the cuffs (which can be removed, as mentioned above). It's also about the silhouette.

    That said, it might even look better on you than DC; the suiting was too small on him in Skyfall.

    Yes, the silhouette is different, but it's hard to tell because Daniel Craig's suits fit him so poorly in Skyfall. When a suit is too small, there really is no silhouette. The Skyfall silhouette is a short jacket that clings to Daniel Craig's body. Without Daniel Craig's body the suit will not look the same. The only thing left are the shoulders, the most defining aspect of the silhouette, and I don't know if the shoulders on the current model resemble the Skyfall shoulders or the classic Tom Ford shoulders. Sizing down in the chest and length in a classic Tom Ford suit will bring you closer to the Skyfall look.

    And not to be picky, but I think you meant to say "the suits were too small on him in Skyfall." "Suiting" is the cloth a suit is made from, though some brands have recently been using the term incorrectly as the plural form of suit to sound fancier.
    Visit my blog, Bond Suits
  • The Bond ExperienceThe Bond Experience Newtown, PAPosts: 5,490Quartermasters
  • jwoodjwood Posts: 17MI6 Agent
    The Mantis wrote:
    Tom Ford SkyFall Tuxedo Video

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NN5lDvaZTM

    Thanks for the update. The video was great. I've tried your ebay method but have not been as lucky.
  • 00-Shane00-Shane Posts: 124MI6 Agent
    screename wrote:
    00-Shane wrote:
    That dinner suit IS the Quantum one
    Nope. The Quantum tuxedo had turnback cuffs and is a traditional length. The one in the picture I posted is just a blown up image from the promotional posters for SF.

    I was talking about the picture JMac88 posted
  • 00-Shane00-Shane Posts: 124MI6 Agent
    David congratulations on the purchase, looks great on you. Quick q: I would like a little more cuff to show on my tux, but this would mean moving buttons and their respective buttonholes up along the sleeve... will TF do this for me?
  • The Bond ExperienceThe Bond Experience Newtown, PAPosts: 5,490Quartermasters
    Not sure if the can but it's worth an ask.
  • screenamescreename Posts: 388MI6 Agent
    00-Shane wrote:
    screename wrote:
    00-Shane wrote:
    That dinner suit IS the Quantum one
    Nope. The Quantum tuxedo had turnback cuffs and is a traditional length. The one in the picture I posted is just a blown up image from the promotional posters for SF.

    I was talking about the picture JMac88 posted
    Ah, My apologies.
  • cheldcheld Posts: 300MI6 Agent
    00-Shane wrote:
    David congratulations on the purchase, looks great on you. Quick q: I would like a little more cuff to show on my tux, but this would mean moving buttons and their respective buttonholes up along the sleeve... will TF do this for me?

    Unless the buttonholes are already cut that would be a very easy alteration, especially on the Skyfall jacket that lacks gauntlet cuffs.
  • cheldcheld Posts: 300MI6 Agent
    The Mantis wrote:
    Tom Ford SkyFall Tuxedo Video

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NN5lDvaZTM

    Tuxedo looks excellent (especially considering that the trousers aren't being held up properly yet!). One nit: the bow tie fabric is pronounced GROW-grain (no "S").
  • The Bond ExperienceThe Bond Experience Newtown, PAPosts: 5,490Quartermasters
    Not a nit at all....my pronounciation sucks on most things...no hiding it on those videos... :D
  • ajd_007ajd_007 Posts: 146MI6 Agent
    The Mantis wrote:
    Tom Ford SkyFall Tuxedo Video

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NN5lDvaZTM

    WOW.

    That's a really nice and such a lucky find. I have to agree with the way TF suits fits, I have been so impressed with mine I do plan on getting another. :D
  • jwoodjwood Posts: 17MI6 Agent
    Has everyone that has purchased a Tom Ford tux purchased it at a Tom Ford store, or have you purchase it at a department store. Is there any benefit to doing it one versus the other?
  • ajd_007ajd_007 Posts: 146MI6 Agent
    I've not purchased a Tux yet, so I am unable to comment on that bit. However, I did have huge problems with Selfridges when I received my suit from them.

    See here: http://www.ajb007.co.uk/topic/43065/tf-experience-using-selfridges/

    I will never use Selfridges again for Tom Ford clothing.

    When I have dealing with the TF direct, the service has been much more professional. I have my appointment soon, so that I am able to re order my suit after the problems at Selfridges.
  • ajd_007ajd_007 Posts: 146MI6 Agent
    The TF London store, seem to have a few of these Tuxedo's in store in a few sizes. I know they have a 54L and 50R in stock.
  • jared_nomakjared_nomak Posts: 1,944MI6 Agent
    Is it not a different tux with wider lapels at the bottom
    Ross
  • ajd_007ajd_007 Posts: 146MI6 Agent
    It looks the be the correct one, I will see if I can get a picture when I pop by there early next week.
  • jared_nomakjared_nomak Posts: 1,944MI6 Agent
    ajd_007 wrote:
    It looks the be the correct one, I will see if I can get a picture when I pop by there early next week.


    Could you get an email for the shop too and ask if they have it in a 48
    Thanks
    Ross
  • ajd_007ajd_007 Posts: 146MI6 Agent
    You have a PM :007) ;)
  • jwoodjwood Posts: 17MI6 Agent
    Can I get everyone's take on whether a TF tuxedo is worth $5,000? I have narrowed my tuxedo decision down to 2: a midnight blue TF tuxedo, or buying a bespoke tuxedo. In the TF store, the tuxedo is $5040 and the bespoke would be approximately $4,500. Obviously, the TF has the name and the James Bond appeal behind it, but the bespoke will have the fit and personal touch to it.

    Based on quality of the fabric and the garment itself, is a TF tuxedo worth the money, or would going bespoke be more bang for the buck?

    I love the look of the TF and have the body type that it fits me well; however, it would need a few adjustments, and fear that it would not a perfect fit, especially if I'm spending that much. However, with the bespoke, I worry that it won't have the same silhouette as a TF.
  • ReturningsonReturningson Posts: 560MI6 Agent
    It all depends on the personal value you assign to the factors above. If you want the Ford name because of his status as being Bond's tailor then it's probably worth going the Ford route. Most stylists will probably tell you that a bespoke suit is as best as you can get thus paying anything more is just one paying for a name/brand etc, not necessarily better quality. I own two Tom Fords and they are the best suits I've ever had or tried on (among the dozens of ones I tried on or owned from dozens of makers). Because this is a Bond specific board, I assume the Bond connection means something to you so I would recommend going with the TF if you can afford it. Mantis has posted a video of the Bond tuxedo and he's happy with it.
  • Matt SMatt S Oh Cult Voodoo ShopPosts: 6,610MI6 Agent
    jwood wrote:
    Can I get everyone's take on whether a TF tuxedo is worth $5,000? I have narrowed my tuxedo decision down to 2: a midnight blue TF tuxedo, or buying a bespoke tuxedo. In the TF store, the tuxedo is $5040 and the bespoke would be approximately $4,500. Obviously, the TF has the name and the James Bond appeal behind it, but the bespoke will have the fit and personal touch to it.

    Based on quality of the fabric and the garment itself, is a TF tuxedo worth the money, or would going bespoke be more bang for the buck?

    I love the look of the TF and have the body type that it fits me well; however, it would need a few adjustments, and fear that it would not a perfect fit, especially if I'm spending that much. However, with the bespoke, I worry that it won't have the same silhouette as a TF.

    I'd recommend bespoke. Fit always comes first. If you want the Tom Ford look bespoke, go to Chittleborough & Morgan. They make something similar to what you see in Quantum of Solace. I wouldn't go to them if you want an a short jacket like in Skyfall, but they make a very fitted suit. You can see their site here: http://www.chittleboroughandmorgan.co.uk/
    Visit my blog, Bond Suits
  • SenorJon21SenorJon21 Posts: 68MI6 Agent
    jwood wrote:
    Can I get everyone's take on whether a TF tuxedo is worth $5,000? I have narrowed my tuxedo decision down to 2: a midnight blue TF tuxedo, or buying a bespoke tuxedo. In the TF store, the tuxedo is $5040 and the bespoke would be approximately $4,500. Obviously, the TF has the name and the James Bond appeal behind it, but the bespoke will have the fit and personal touch to it.

    Based on quality of the fabric and the garment itself, is a TF tuxedo worth the money, or would going bespoke be more bang for the buck?

    I love the look of the TF and have the body type that it fits me well; however, it would need a few adjustments, and fear that it would not a perfect fit, especially if I'm spending that much. However, with the bespoke, I worry that it won't have the same silhouette as a TF.

    If you can get the TF MTM, or if you can get it to fit you well OTR with a few minor adjustments and you like the look, I say go for it. It's the end look and the style and cut that matter at this price point as quality is essentially as high as it can get. If you want the TF look, you have to buy from TF. Going bespoke will get you a nice tuxedo no doubt, but it won't be the same as getting it from TF, especially if that is the look you're going for. The cut will be different and as well as all the stylistic details (I'm sure the tailor can do its best to imitate TF if that's what you want, but at that point why not just buy the TF tux?). A lot of the appeal to bespoke is that it is hand-tailored to your preferences and the process will get you a suit that is perfect for you (you have to know what you want specifically, including the stylistic details). It's also a much longer process as you have to go back in for measurements repeatedly.

    So essentially, I think that if you find the TF tuxedo is perfect for you and you can get one that will fit you pretty much perfectly (and can be adjusted to do so) or you go MTM (not sure if they do this, but I'm sure they can if you're willing to pay for it :)) ) then go for that. But if you have your own stylistic preferences and taste, and wouldn't mind getting a different look, are willing to go through the process and specifically want a suit made just for you, then go bespoke.
Sign In or Register to comment.