ROYALE Filmwear 2017 Solden Jacket (its back!!)

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Comments

  • TheExit148TheExit148 Posts: 563MI6 Agent
    Dan, I think it would be a good idea to post the chest pit to pit measurement as well, to help people better understand the sizing in relation to the sleeve length.
  • timibladetimiblade Posts: 159MI6 Agent
    edited March 2014
    SilverFinger no need to be rude , in your picture the sleeves length seems short. I'm 42 like the others and the sleeves length of my jackets are between 25 and 26, perfect length. But if the back length without the collar is 26 or 27, the sleeves became short. I measured the back length of my jackets and they are all between 24 and 25.
    This is my opinion so chill out.
    Some Belstaff have the perfect ratio between the back length and the sleeves length. J Crew is OK too.
  • MrEddy21MrEddy21 LondonPosts: 419MI6 Agent
    I think I'm right in saying that Dan made these jackets with a slightly shorter sleeve length internationally - I remember him stating "it allows you to show off your Omega"

    I had one of these jacket, fitted perfect on the chest but the short sleeves made it look overal too small - sold it on last year.
  • OSS117OSS117 Posts: 48MI6 Agent
    jacket22wh3.jpg

    Short jacket , sleeves seem to end at wrist not at thumb knuckle .
  • TheExit148TheExit148 Posts: 563MI6 Agent
    OSS117 wrote:
    jacket22wh3.jpg

    Short jacket , sleeves seem to end at wrist not at thumb knuckle .
    And for me, with a 25.5 inch sleeve length, this is exactly where it would hit.

    Also, take into account the stacking on the arms at the cuff. Goes to show the length of the arms is more then where it hits.
  • bassopotamusbassopotamus Posts: 68MI6 Agent
    18-19" chest, 17" shoulder to shoulder, 24-25" back length, and 25.5 or 26" sleeve length on a size small would be ideal and just go from there with the other sizes. also, the slimmer the better. although looking at that pic of craig it seems the Tom Ford is not all that slim. I think the sleeves are pretty baggy and don't look all that great, especially when they bunch up like that. just my opinion.
  • TheExit148TheExit148 Posts: 563MI6 Agent
    18-19" chest, 17" shoulder to shoulder, 24-25" back length, and 25.5 or 26" sleeve length on a size small would be ideal and just go from there with the other sizes. also, the slimmer the better. although looking at that pic of craig it seems the Tom Ford is not all that slim. I think the sleeves are pretty baggy and don't look all that great, especially when they bunch up like that. just my opinion.
    Going from experience with different sizings, an 18-19" chest would be an XS in sizing.
  • Westward_DriftWestward_Drift Posts: 3,113MI6 Agent
    Maybe one of the members with a Tom Ford can chime in with the measurements of their jacket.
  • TintinTintin Posts: 194MI6 Agent
    Dan, two suggestion:

    1) Is it possible to bring the pocket border a little closer to the one of the Tom Ford jacket?
    In your photo they look a bit too wide and too flat. For example: Magnoli (see picture) has incorporated a thin rubber tube at the border and I think whose pockets are very similar to the original.

    magnolipocketzemvjf2ocd.jpg

    2) The Tom Ford harrington has a crease in order to reduce the fabric at the cuffs.
    Can you also integrate a crease please?

    sleeveendntaydljgi5.jpg
  • bassopotamusbassopotamus Posts: 68MI6 Agent
    TheExit148 wrote:
    18-19" chest, 17" shoulder to shoulder, 24-25" back length, and 25.5 or 26" sleeve length on a size small would be ideal and just go from there with the other sizes. also, the slimmer the better. although looking at that pic of craig it seems the Tom Ford is not all that slim. I think the sleeves are pretty baggy and don't look all that great, especially when they bunch up like that. just my opinion.
    Going from experience with different sizings, an 18-19" chest would be an XS in sizing.


    I guess this is true since most manufacturers include a couple extra inches in the chest, but I have about a 37" chest and wear smalls in just about everything. I don't think there needs to be any more than 1 or 1.5" extra in the chest when it comes to slim fits. a 40 or 41" chest just doesn't look good with someone who usually wears a size 36 which is what I consider a size small. if it were something meant to be layered that'd be ok but this jacket will most likely only be worn with a t-shirt or polo. guess we'll just have to wait and see what he comes up with measurement wise.
  • SilverFingerSilverFinger Brisbane, AustraliaPosts: 281MI6 Agent
    edited March 2014
    Hi guys,

    Okay... I’ll give in. My intention at this point was only to get some ballpark sizing requirements, but I’ll post my current sizing table I’m working from. Please be aware that there may be some changes to this in the finished product, I’ll get my trusty tape measure out and update it if necessary once the items are in hand. I have also attached a thread discussing ‘standard jacket sizing’ but I will summarise that now.

    To avoid any further confusion with chest measurement, I want to clarify some standardised sizing misconceptions. Chest sizing, just like ‘vanity sizing’ in jeans etc. has become needlessly complicated in recent years. Regardless of whether you perceive this to be correct, I am not looking to open up a debate here about what’s right or wrong, that would be to hijack the thread. I simply aim to explain my sizing, which is in my understanding relatively standard.

    Typically speaking quoting a ‘chest size’ is unreliable, there are a lot of variations manufacturer to manufacturer, working directly from your best fitting jacket chest size (pit-to-pit) is by far the best way to ensure the right fit for you.
    ROOM!!! Okay, the standard amount of ‘room’ built into a quoted chest size is usually 4 inches, but that could vary with cut, or jacket style. That is to say if your body chest measurement is 40” the pit to pit of your perceived ideal jacket is 22” or 44” in total (the garment chest dimension) HOWEVER, those who like a more ‘fitted’ look may want less therefore, they may opt to wear a size 38” which +4” actually measures 42” on the garment and is only 2” larger than their 40” body measurement.

    Typically speaking a well fitting SUIT jacket should have around 2” of room above your body chest measurement. BUT unlike a casual jacket the suit jacket is not intended to be zipped up to the neck enclosing and therefore restricting the chest movement. So, for arguments sake a casual jacket should include 3-4 inches of room ideally.

    PIT-TO-PIT is by far the best way to determine correct fit for you, however as a guide only I am offering a suggested approximation of chest size. Please note that my sizing includes the standard 4” of room built in. IT IS UP TO THE INDIVIDUAL to take the time to carefully measure their own best fitting jackets (not a suit jacket, too unreliable)

    Ideally base your decisions on your pit-to-pit of your best fitting jacket OR aim for 3-5 inches of room above your body measurement depending on what type of fit you want.

    If you have contacted me and wish to advise of a sizing change, please feel free to do so. I promise I’ll do my very best to keep up, but I will be away from my office for the next couple of days and will sift through your many questions and details upon my return.

    Just one last thing.... You will note on my size guide that the XS, S and Medium jackets all share the same sleeve and back length to ensure that the slimmer, but taller among you are not disadvantaged in those chest sizes with back and sleeve length.

    Thanks for reading... I’ll get back to you all in a couple of days!!

    Please inform me of a pit-to-pit measurement for chest size from now on, thanks guys.

    Cheers,

    Dan.

    http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?115528-Help-interpreting-measurements-when-looking-to-buy-clothes-online

    Size_Guide.jpg
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  • jon_1ukjon_1uk Posts: 674MI6 Agent
    Hi Dan

    Do you know if the small has changed sizing from the 1st jacket you produced?
    "some men are coming to kill us, we're going to kill them first"
  • PolynikesPolynikes U.k.Posts: 276MI6 Agent
    That makes things much clearer. I now know I'll need a medium.
    Thank you.
    "I'm motivated by my duty"

    1.SF 2.CR 3.OHMSS 4.DN 5.YOLT
  • 007JBDCMWR007JBDCMWR Posts: 2,526MI6 Agent
    jon_1uk wrote:
    Hi Dan

    Do you know if the small has changed sizing from the 1st jacket you produced?


    Jon (and Dan)

    Just measured my original Large and is pretty much identical to the measurements above for the Medium (does this sound right Dan ?)... Apart from it appears about an extra inch on the sleeve length (which was needed at least, probably an extra 1.5 would be ideal....)


    Dan, Ive PM'd you and if the fabric is as you say heavier and also a few extra tweaks made, I'll be in for whatever size matches the original Large. Looks like a flattering Medium ;-)


    Keep that Y-3 replica in your mind too !!!


    M
    Skewered, one sympathises...

    1. CR. 2. TSWLM. 3. LTK. 4. GF. 5. SF.
  • bassopotamusbassopotamus Posts: 68MI6 Agent
    Well looks like i'll be needing an x-small, as long as the sleeves will definitely be 26". looks like it will fit perfectly.
  • jon_1ukjon_1uk Posts: 674MI6 Agent
    please will you tll me how the new small compares with old small .. as the old small fits exactly ...
    in fact can you please repost the old size chart next to the new one so anyone who has an origional cad compare and decide what size they want of the new?
    "some men are coming to kill us, we're going to kill them first"
  • OSS117OSS117 Posts: 48MI6 Agent
    If I'm not mistaken there were two batches of Silverfingers' first run of the jacket , with two size charts.
    First order
    T2e_C16d_HJG8_E9nyfpnd_YBQMet0_Dq6w_60_3.jpg

    Second order
    new_stock_T2e_C16_JHJHYE9nzpcw_E8_BQ3p_Qlbd5_60_3.jpg
  • timibladetimiblade Posts: 159MI6 Agent
    Back length 26'' for the XS , S and M is very long. What do you think guys ?
    XS should be 24'' , S 24,5'' and M 25''.
  • bassopotamusbassopotamus Posts: 68MI6 Agent
    timiblade wrote:
    Back length 26'' for the XS , S and M is very long. What do you think guys ?
    XS should be 24'' , S 24,5'' and M 25''.


    agreed. 26" is a tad long, even for us tall people. I'm about 6'1'' and like my jackets to be about 24" long down the back. hopefully he can make some adjustments to the back length...but whatever you do dan, keep the sleeves long!!! haha. 26" sleeves is perfect.
  • TheExit148TheExit148 Posts: 563MI6 Agent
    timiblade wrote:
    Back length 26'' for the XS , S and M is very long. What do you think guys ?
    XS should be 24'' , S 24,5'' and M 25''.
    I somewhat agree. For this style jacket, I think the xs should be 24.5", the small 25" and the medium 25.5-26".
  • McQueenMcQueen Posts: 139MI6 Agent
    It would be nice to see an additional 0.5 -1 inch added to sleeve length on the medium size to be on the safe side for all of us knuckle-draggers :))
  • SilverFingerSilverFinger Brisbane, AustraliaPosts: 281MI6 Agent
    Good afternoon gentlemen (here in sunny Australia),

    First of all I'd like to thank you all for your feedback on sizing and details, thats the sort of stuff that helps me improve. Okay so noted we would like some changes to sleeve length and back length in particular. I have attached a new sizing table expressing these small changes in yellow. I apologise to those of you who may now have to get sleeves tailored down in length, but I refuse to be know for short sleeves ever again. I will express the importance of these details to my manufacturer. The sample should be in hand in 24hrs, it is in Brisbane ready for delivery tommorrow being Monday. Thank you all for contacting me directly please let me know which of my sizes based on the table best suits you (XS,S,M,L,XL). If these do sell out rather quickly gents, fear not I may do an immediate second run as the interest in this jacket has been greater than I anticipated.

    I hope you all have had a spectacular weekend,

    Thanks again,

    Dan.

    Size_Guide.jpg
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  • 007JBDCMWR007JBDCMWR Posts: 2,526MI6 Agent
    Dan

    Great to take on so much feedback and do something with it. I think (medium anyway) looks about spot on....

    Now for that Y-3 ;-) !!!


    M
    Skewered, one sympathises...

    1. CR. 2. TSWLM. 3. LTK. 4. GF. 5. SF.
  • TheExit148TheExit148 Posts: 563MI6 Agent
    Hey Dan,

    I think those changes are much better then previous.
  • Westward_DriftWestward_Drift Posts: 3,113MI6 Agent
    Dan, I have to agree with the previous comments. The measurements for the medium look right on the money.
  • chriscollins007chriscollins007 North Somerset , England Posts: 1,158MI6 Agent
    could you attach the new sizing chart again Dan , thanks
    Good afternoon gentlemen (here in sunny Australia),

    First of all I'd like to thank you all for your feedback on sizing and details, thats the sort of stuff that helps me improve. Okay so noted we would like some changes to sleeve length and back length in particular. I have attached a new sizing table expressing these small changes in yellow. I apologise to those of you who may now have to get sleeves tailored down in length, but I refuse to be know for short sleeves ever again. I will express the importance of these details to my manufacturer. The sample should be in hand in 24hrs, it is in Brisbane ready for delivery tommorrow being Monday. Thank you all for contacting me directly please let me know which of my sizes based on the table best suits you (XS,S,M,L,XL). If these do sell out rather quickly gents, fear not I may do an immediate second run as the interest in this jacket has been greater than I anticipated.

    I hope you all have had a spectacular weekend,

    Thanks again,

    Dan.

    Size_Guide.jpg
    007 reporting for duty
  • TheundeadkennedyTheundeadkennedy Posts: 292MI6 Agent
    Yes, the medium should work just fine for me now. Thanks Dan! -{
  • SilverFingerSilverFinger Brisbane, AustraliaPosts: 281MI6 Agent
    edited March 2014
    Well gentlemen,

    Some great news... the sample jacket arrived in the post yesterday and I’m very impressed. The quality is excellent and the small change to the collar tips came out brilliantly. Since I commissioned the sample we have made another couple of small changes, most notably to the pockets which will now reflect the original very well I’m sure by being narrower in construction.

    I have this afternoon placed the order with my manufacturer after confirmation of ammendments, numbers as you know are very limited, but I have ordered a few more than originally intended and will have a dozen or so spares at this point. So if you do want one you will have to shoot me an email to get on the ebay notification list, as I suspect they will sell out quickly. It is as mentioned first in best dressed through ebay once they hit.

    Thank you to everyone who has helped me with images and details, the result I believe will be worth the wait. The fit of the sample is excellent, the measurements are bang on the medium jacket spec and my manufacturer has stressed his willingness to provide me with exactly what I’m looking for in sizing and every small detail.

    These photos were taken today with a higher exposure on the camera to try and show off some detail, as darker items are difficult to photograph. I have bumped up the contrast a bit to balance that out.

    Contact me at magicmandanlove@gmail.com if you’re interested in one of the remaining dozen or so jackets and wish to be notified via email when they hit ebay. (approx. $170USD)

    Thanks guys,

    Dan.

    Front.jpg

    Sleeve_length.jpg

    Back.jpg

    Collar_tip_detail.jpg

    Tab_closure.jpg

    Size_Guide.jpg
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  • GSGS Posts: 333MI6 Agent
    Looks excellent - well done Dan
  • bassopotamusbassopotamus Posts: 68MI6 Agent
    looks fantastic! can't wait for these to hit ebay. I'll definitely be purchasing one as soon as they do.
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