CR tuxedo alternative
spartanrk
Las VegasPosts: 88MI6 Agent
hi guys... I'm looking for some input and experience here. I have to buy a tux and have been doing a lot of research. David Z has made mention several times of www.uniformalwearhouse.com. I know he does not give props to a clothing line lightly and am seriously considering making a purchase. But, my inexperience with tuxes is making me hesitant. My first question is, which one would you buy? Based on some of the articles I have seen, this looks like the closest CR model: It is the one button peak lapel (sorry it does not have it's own page)
http://www.uniformalwearhouse.com./apages/tuxedo_jkt_pnts1.html
Does anyone have any first hand experience purchasing from them?
thank you as always for the wealth of knowledge guys
http://www.uniformalwearhouse.com./apages/tuxedo_jkt_pnts1.html
Does anyone have any first hand experience purchasing from them?
thank you as always for the wealth of knowledge guys
Comments
"center vent" - no tuxedo should have a center vent
"flap pockets" - see above (although it may be possible to tuck the flaps into the pockets to simulate a besom pocket look)
"w/matching adjustable tuxedo pants" - most likely elastic side tabs with clasps
As the website sells uniforms and tuxedos, this item is likely targeted at the rental market, meaning that the fabric will be rough (to stand up to abuse) and not drape well. I'd pass.
Charles Tyrwhitt: http://www.ctshirts.com/Classic-fit-peak-lapel-tuxedo-suit?q=usddefault|Tuxedo|dja03blk|||||||||||||&ppp=31
T.M. Lewin: http://www.tmlewin.com/Mayfair-Regular-Fit-1-Button-Black-Tuxedo-Suit/17233S,en_US,pd.html?start=0&cgid=Mens-evening-collection
Suit Supply: http://us.suitsupply.com/en_CA/suits/smoking-black-plain/P1109AE.html?start=1&q=tuxedo
Magnoli Clothiers: http://www.magnoliclothiers.com/royale-tuxedo-tuxedos-p-246.html
Also, this is a great budget alternative to the CR tuxedo shirt (unless you're OK with shelling out $500 for the screen-accurate T&A shirt): http://www.clermontdirect.com/cotton-front-marcella-fold-down-collar-shirt-p-160.html
http://www.josbank.com/menswear/shop/Product_11001_10050_101786
Now... on to the shirt and accessories : - )
thanks again guys
If you need help tracking down the accessories, here are a few more links:
Cufflinks: http://www.magnoliclothiers.com/royale-cufflinks-pins-p-578.html
Bow Tie: http://www.thetiebar.com/product/b1228
Braces/Suspenders: http://www.albertthurston.com/categoryfast2.cfm?catid=1
That looks like quite a good deal! From the description it ticks all the boxes you need for a timeless tuxedo:
"Tailored in Superfine wool with Bemberg lining and grosgrain satin lapels and buttons. Single breasted, peak lapel jacket with one button closure. Unvented and fully lined. Single-pleat trousers with grosgrain satin stripe, half lined to the knee."
Since it is so simple (black jacket, black pants, black shoes, white shirt, black tie), there is no outfit that requires a perfect fit more than the tuxedo. So make sure you and your tailor agree that (a) you purchased the right size in all items; (b) the post-tailored outfit is as clean-fitting as possible. This may take multiple trips to the tailor's shop, but trust me it will be worth it in the end!
The OCD Guide To Fitting A New Tuxedo
1. Acquire all accessories: turn-down collar formal shirt, self-tie bow tie in black grosgrain silk, undershirt, cuff links, studs (if not fly-front shirt), suspenders, formal shoes (I recommend against SA here, as a two-eyelet calfskin derby isn't a proper match for evening wear), black silk over-the-calf socks (or standard black OTC dress socks for SA look), waist covering (low cut vest, or cummerbund - optional since DC has no covering in CR). All of BLU8's suggestions are spot-on! Jos. A. Bank or Brooks Brothers will have black OTC socks in either silk or wool blend. Shoes will depend on your budget.
2. Try on shirt with undershirt and trousers. Confirm shirt collar and sleeve lengths. If collar is off, return and start over. If sleeve is too long, decide if it's worth ~$22 to have sleeve shortened. Is shirt body too blousy? If so, count on another $20 or so to have it taken in, or exchange for "slim fit" if available.
3. Trousers - adjust suspenders length until trousers are at natural waist (if suspender buttons didn't come pre-installed, try to just hold the pants at natural waist level). Is rise too short, causing "male discomfort" (especially when sitting)? If so, return and start over. If rise is comfortable, evaluate trousers - can they be let out/taken in to fit properly?
4. Take entire outfit to tailor. Put on entire outfit (except suspenders if pants don't come with suspender buttons). Get tailor's opinion on jacket. If shoulders don't fit or jacket is wrong length, return outfit and start over.
5. If shoulders fit, have jacket marked up for alterations: sides, sleeves, collar roll, etc.
6. Have shirt marked up for sleeve length and/or body fit if needed.
7. If pants do not have suspender buttons, have them installed and do not have further work done on pants until they are.
8. Once pants have suspender buttons and you are at the tailor wearing them with the trousers at your natural waist, get waist/seat/thigh marked up. If those areas are relatively clean, have trousers hemmed to "no-break" or "slight break" - look at the mirror during this step - if you look down at your feet you won't get an accurate measurement! If waist/seat/thigh need work, have that done first, then return to get the hem right.
9. Once all work is done, return to tailor with full outfit for final fit confirmation.
10. Obtain double-o status and licence for PPK.
11. Enjoy the party! (but leave the PPK at home, locked in a safe)
12. Brush jacket and trousers lightly before and after each wear; spot clean as needed; dry clean annually.
13. Browse newspaper's Society section looking for excuses to wear black tie.
As always, thank you gents, and this site, for all of the information
M: "Jealous husbands, outraged chefs, humiliated tailors . . . the list is endless."
http://www.magnoliclothiers.com/product_info.php?reviews=on&products_id=128&page=2
Tone-on-tone would properly be called "white-on-white". That's similar to what the Casino Royale dress shirt is. The Casino Royale dress shirt is a waffle weave. Magnoli's shirt has some faults in the details, such as the collar and cuff stitching (should be 1/4", not on the edge). The holes on the double cuffs should be closer to the fold. The cuffs should be attached with shirring rather than pleats. I can't tell if it has a raised placket (it should), and the placket should be 1 1/8" wide with stitching 3/8" from the edge.