I've recently got in touch with Brunello Cucinelli and they gave me some news. Disclaimer: they told this pieces WERE in the movie, but we actually know there aren't. So they probably don't know all the stuff, like TF.
Matera's press conference outfit
We already knew the suit and that, obviously, the majority of pieces are not available anymore. Anyway here are the exact product ID codes and some pics Beige hounds-tooth suit: 191MD4467BTZ Linen button-down light blue shirt: 192MG6711716 Silk dotted tie: 192ML8170018 Pocket square: 192ML8420091
And last but not the least they told me it was also supplied a navy knitted tie (192MG8980018). It was available both in navy and anthracite. Who knows if it was intended to go with the suit or another in the movie
Is the stitching a gimmick that won't age well, or a visual reminder of craftsmanship?
Pick-stitching has been a feature on lapels of high end suits for as long as they’ve been around—definitely not just a gimmick or a trend that won’t age well in a few years time.
That’s true in many cases. But in the case of high-end suits, pick stitching is done in a way that is hardly seen. It’s there to keep the edges crisp, not to show off the stitching itself.
Here it’s used as a gimmick, and Tom Ford often use it in other unnecessary places as a gimmick, like along the front darts. Dinner jackets with silk-faced lapels traditionally do not take pick stitching because it disrupts the smooth elegance of the silk. You’ll find it on Connery’s and Moore’s self-faced ivory dinner jackets but not on their black and blue dinner suits.
Tom Ford always do the stitching in a quality way, but in using it in places where the world’s top tailors don’t I see it as an unnecessary bit of flash that slightly disrupts the elegance of the suits.
Is the stitching a gimmick that won't age well, or a visual reminder of craftsmanship?
Pick-stitching has been a feature on lapels of high end suits for as long as they’ve been around—definitely not just a gimmick or a trend that won’t age well in a few years time.
That’s true in many cases. But in the case of high-end suits, pick stitching is done in a way that is hardly seen. It’s there to keep the edges crisp, not to show off the stitching itself.
Here it’s used as a gimmick, and Tom Ford often use it in other unnecessary places as a gimmick, like along the front darts. Dinner jackets with silk-faced lapels traditionally do not take pick stitching because it disrupts the smooth elegance of the silk. You’ll find it on Connery’s and Moore’s self-faced ivory dinner jackets but not on their black and blue dinner suits.
Tom Ford always do the stitching in a quality way, but in using it in places where the world’s top tailors don’t I see it as an unnecessary bit of flash that slightly disrupts the elegance of the suits.
Right. At the end of the day, Tom Ford is still a designer. The elongated stitching on the cuff to encourage one to leave a button undone is another TF gimmick along the same lines. While the quality is there, I don’t perceive very many truly well-dressed men flocking to TF over a more classic tailoring house. If we’re being honest, James Bond would never wear Tom Ford.
Making judgements on what we expect someone else to do or not do is the same whether or not it’s a fictional character or a real person. Both have history we can base our judgements on, but it’s easy to be wrong about both. I think Tom Ford is out of character for pre-Brosnan Bond. I picture that Bond using a tailor who doesn’t have the biggest name recognition, just as Fleming did. That Bond would probably mark someone who wears a distinctive designer suit as a cad. But as Bond now wears Tom Ford suits, that has become something that is part of the character. The question is if Bond’s suits in universe are supposed to be from Tom Ford, or is he just costumed in Tom Ford because Ford’s suits resemble English bespoke suits?
Has anyone heard from Connolly regarding the Finamore shirt orders? They were supposed to go out "before Christmas" which is fast approaching. I realize Connolly hasn't been a model of clear communication.
I’ve had an email from Stefani this morning requesting postal address and phone number. The shirts are shipping today.
Concerning the Connolly Jacket: As I waited for the spare buttons/hanger/garment bag for the Connolly Jacket since summer, and as it was promised me a few times I wrote after months of not hearing a word from them a rather harsh email at ic@connollyengland.com, his name is Ivan Calderon. He responded immediately, writing
"Dear Simon,
You are correct. This is below our usual Connolly standards. I’ll organise the dispatch tomorrow along with an email noting tracking details. Your request was handed over and should of been followed through alongside other similar requests months ago.
My sincere apologies.
I will also add a Connolly gift as a gesture, within your package"
which is quite nice, and indeed the package dispatched yesterday, got the DHL message.
So if some of you are still waiting for your promised Connolly stuff, maybe you can also get it via Ivan, as he quickly acted as promised this time.
Hope that helps some of you!
The question is if Bond’s suits in universe are supposed to be from Tom Ford, or is he just costumed in Tom Ford because Ford’s suits resemble English bespoke suits?
It’s a good question. The choice of suitings tends to make me think that in-universe we are supposed to think that the suits come from an English maker. (The suitings have tended to be rather staid and traditional beginning in Skyfall.) Overall, Craig’s Bond tends to favor English brands, so he doesn’t seem a natural fit for wearing an American designer.
I feel there's a significant inconsistency going all the way back to Casino Royale. On the train Vesper 1) implies Bond didn't come from money and was the beneficiary of someone else's charity and 2) wears the suit with disdain. Tom Ford would, in my opinion, be perfectly in-line with that because TF is rather nouveau riche-y. And if he disdains the suits there's probably a subtle satisfaction gained by tearing through them on the job.
But things make less sense once we get to Skyfall. We see that, not only did Bond come from money, it looks like he came from old money. It's at odds with the blue collar/utility knife thing established in the first two films.
Though, if you want to ascribe meaning (meaning I doubt was intentional), you could say Bond leaned into his "I always hated this place" thing and carried that to other aspects of his life. Skyfall Lodge looked very traditional country. A lot of Bond's life has been the opposite of Scottish countryside. Maybe it's a choice he made to separate himself from his childhood as much as possible.
But, while I love a Tom Ford suit (I own several), it'll never sit right with me that he's wearing an American designer label and not something from Savile Row. In my head cannon they're not Tom Ford; they're bespoke.
But, while I love a Tom Ford suit (I own several), it'll never sit right with me that he's wearing an American designer label and not something from Savile Row. In my head cannon they're not Tom Ford; they're bespoke.
I try to think of it this way too. Tom Ford primarily models his suits after Tommy Nutter's updated Savile Row aesthetic with a few details from Naples, Italy. Most of Craig's suits from Tom Ford don't have the special Nutter touches (found in the Windsor model and in a few others) but still keep the Savile Row look (albeit without the Savile Row fit). Brioni can't pass for English suits but Tom Ford can.
I feel there's a significant inconsistency going all the way back to Casino Royale. On the train Vesper 1) implies Bond didn't come from money and was the beneficiary of someone else's charity and 2) wears the suit with disdain. Tom Ford would, in my opinion, be perfectly in-line with that because TF is rather nouveau riche-y. And if he disdains the suits there's probably a subtle satisfaction gained by tearing through them on the job.
But things make less sense once we get to Skyfall. We see that, not only did Bond come from money, it looks like he came from old money. It's at odds with the blue collar/utility knife thing established in the first two films.
Though, if you want to ascribe meaning (meaning I doubt was intentional), you could say Bond leaned into his "I always hated this place" thing and carried that to other aspects of his life. Skyfall Lodge looked very traditional country. A lot of Bond's life has been the opposite of Scottish countryside. Maybe it's a choice he made to separate himself from his childhood as much as possible.
But, while I love a Tom Ford suit (I own several), it'll never sit right with me that he's wearing an American designer label and not something from Savile Row. In my head cannon they're not Tom Ford; they're bespoke.
Vesper is just making assumptions. Not stating facts. So I wouldn’t read anything into that.
Gauging from Bond's reaction I think the filmmakers intended for us to glean one thing from that exchange; she was right. She's read him. And conveyed some interesting character bio in the process. It's an old screenwriting technique. He wouldn't have commented that he sympathizes with the skewered lamb otherwise.
And it's partly why he lets her outfit him with a superior dinner jacket.
I'm aware this Greg Williams photoshoot was done on Safin's set of NTTD. There are also photos of Rami Malek posing on the same set. However, do we know if this is a costume that Craig will wear in the film? It looks very much like a Tom Ford suit.....I actually much prefer it to the one we see him wear in the film. Do we think it'll appear in the film?
Asp9mmOver the Hills and Far Away.Posts: 7,535MI6 Agent
Gauging from Bond's reaction I think the filmmakers intended for us to glean one thing from that exchange; she was right. She's read him. And conveyed some interesting character bio in the process. It's an old screenwriting technique. He wouldn't have commented that he sympathizes with the skewered lamb otherwise.
And it's partly why he lets her outfit him with a superior dinner jacket.
She wasn’t right about a lot of things in that exchange according to his official bio released at the time, and Flemings Bond history. Including the charity assumption and being in the SAS and wearing a Rolex though, and was quite surprised when she was right about him being an orphan. Which then lead to the skewered comment. So his reaction may relate to disdain for her brutal incorrect assumptions. Either way, He’s better and more classicly dressed in Brioni and Turnbull and Asser than he ever was in Tom Ford.
And that’s why Brosnan is always higher in the ranking when people rate the Best Dressed Bond.
I guess it’s all a moot point anyway, as NTTD veers so far from Bonds historic garment choices both cinematic and novel related, that it may possibly be worse than LTK. It’s not Bond anymore, it’s a Craig fashion fest. I’m not sure I’m clicking with it. I maybe would wear quite a few of his NTTD pieces, but I’m pretty sure Bond wouldn’t, and really shouldn’t.
Has anyone heard from Connolly regarding the Finamore shirt orders? They were supposed to go out "before Christmas" which is fast approaching. I realize Connolly hasn't been a model of clear communication.
I’ve had an email from Stefani this morning requesting postal address and phone number. The shirts are shipping today.
Oh good, the emails have gone. I was serendipitously passing so popped in earlier, expecting to confirm they would be arriving in the new year. But they had all just been delivered and Stephanie was working her way through a large pile of boxes and emailing down the list.
Given the bad press and in some quarters, *cough* instagram *cough*, outright abuse they have had from professed Bond 'fans', it's worth stating that the team were lovely and helpful, as they have been every time I have been in, and the shop itself remains a wonderful treasure trove highly recommended for a visit. The shirt is a joy, too.
I guess it’s all a moot point anyway, as NTTD veers so far from Bonds historic garment choices both cinematic and novel related, that it may possibly be worse than LTK. It’s not Bond anymore, it’s a Craig fashion fest. I’m not sure I’m clicking with it. I maybe would wear quite a few of his NTTD pieces, but I’m pretty sure Bond wouldn’t, and really shouldn’t.
I agree with this. The NTTD wardrobe is just Craig dressing as Craig. Virtually none of it feels like Bond to me, and I’ve avoided all of the pieces as a result. Some might point out that Moore was largely dictating Bond’s wardrobe during his tenure. While that’s true, and the results were sometimes uneven, Moore still looked elegant and within the confines of the character. Craig’s Bond has gone completely off the rails in this regard.
In Casino, when he is has only been a Double 0 for a minute he looked like a university graduate shows up for the first day at their new job wearing their most expensive suit, shirt and tie. So, Brioni and T&A were the right calls for that.
When he was "enjoying death" he was dressed pretty casually. Then when he is back in action it is back to the basic suiting. I don't own any TF suits as they are above my paygrade, but when I have tried them on I have found that they feel great, like Mr. Zaritsky has said in his videos they are like armor. That is what Bond needed was a suit that would not get in the way, but to be a slight protection against bumps and scratches. Though he looked great, I always thought of it as he didn't put much thought into his outfits aside from function thus the basically solid ties with patterned suits. Clean and simple. TF suits, to me, fit that nonchalant way of caring how you look without making it seem that way. English looking, but not expressly English. Also, I see those as bespoke suits in the cinematic world of JB too.
"History isn't kind to men who play God." - DC "I gave him the limp." - PB "Better make that two." - TD
"Keeping British end up, sir." - RM "This never happened to the other fellow." - JL "I must be dreaming." SC
The NTTD wardrobe is just Craig dressing as Craig. Virtually none of it feels like Bond to me, and I’ve avoided all of the pieces as a result.
I've felt this about a lot of the casual outfits seen in NTTD, but we must allow for the possibility that the casual outfits are getting into the realm of "how does James Bond dress when he's not 007 anymore?" It's borderline uncharted territory, and might make more than a little narrative sense in-film. Lending credence to this notion is that when he does return to MI6, he does so in a suit that seems, to me, very 007 (https://www.jamesbondlifestyle.com/sites/default/files/ckeditor/images/news/190714-007-James-Bond-Daniel-Craig-whitehall-Tom-Ford-suit.jpg).
And while it's true in our world that the N Peal commando sweater is not something Bond would go to N Peal and buy, in-film it looks enough like a tactical garment that even Fleming's Bond might don it on a mission.
And while it's true in our world that the N Peal commando sweater is not something Bond would go to N Peal and buy, in-film it looks enough like a tactical garment that even Fleming's Bond might don it on a mission.
Precisely- I think that’s why it veers too far into cos-play territory for me...
I guess it’s all a moot point anyway, as NTTD veers so far from Bonds historic garment choices both cinematic and novel related, that it may possibly be worse than LTK. It’s not Bond anymore, it’s a Craig fashion fest. I’m not sure I’m clicking with it. I maybe would wear quite a few of his NTTD pieces, but I’m pretty sure Bond wouldn’t, and really shouldn’t.
I also agree entirely. The London suits and the Jamaica outfit (black shirt and grey jeans) are fine, but there's nothing else that suits me or catches my eye and consequently I've bought no clothes from NTTD except one tie and the black shirt.
I find the Craig dressing as Craig argument slightly strange when going back to the source material and taking into account the juggling of 'timeless now' that the movies have always looked at.
"There are moments of great luxury in the life of a secret agent. There are assignments on which he is required to act the part of a very rich man;..."
In 2020 men in the places Fleming's Bond would have had to blend in - country clubs, members clubs, casinos, conferences, amongst the c-suite of the worlds biggest companies - often dress an awful lot, and in many of the same brands as, well...Daniel Craig, who is himself, a very rich man. Not to get too meta but modern Bond may well have to find himself blending into the world of Daniel Craig!
Connolly shirt arrived and very nice.
I sized up a half size from usual 16/41 to 16.5/42.
Glad I listened to Stefanie's advice, it's perfect!
What was Stefanie's reasoning for having you go up one size?
I am broad across the back and with a larger chest. I was advised to half size up due to cut (it is quite a slim cut through shoulders/chest - I did fear I'd have to have the sleeves shortened but in the wearing the sleeves were perfect. I'm a 44" chest and took a 17.5.
Connolly shirt arrived and very nice.
I sized up a half size from usual 16/41 to 16.5/42.
Glad I listened to Stefanie's advice, it's perfect!
What was Stefanie's reasoning for having you go up one size?
Up half size. Based on the shirts measurements based against a slim fit tf.
Figured I wouldn't be fastening the top button too.
As it's worked out the collar Def isn't large despite half up.
It's a very slim fit is my opinion.
Comments
Matera's press conference outfit
We already knew the suit and that, obviously, the majority of pieces are not available anymore. Anyway here are the exact product ID codes and some pics
Beige hounds-tooth suit: 191MD4467BTZ
Linen button-down light blue shirt: 192MG6711716
Silk dotted tie: 192ML8170018
Pocket square: 192ML8420091
And last but not the least they told me it was also supplied a navy knitted tie (192MG8980018). It was available both in navy and anthracite. Who knows if it was intended to go with the suit or another in the movie
That’s true in many cases. But in the case of high-end suits, pick stitching is done in a way that is hardly seen. It’s there to keep the edges crisp, not to show off the stitching itself.
Here it’s used as a gimmick, and Tom Ford often use it in other unnecessary places as a gimmick, like along the front darts. Dinner jackets with silk-faced lapels traditionally do not take pick stitching because it disrupts the smooth elegance of the silk. You’ll find it on Connery’s and Moore’s self-faced ivory dinner jackets but not on their black and blue dinner suits.
Tom Ford always do the stitching in a quality way, but in using it in places where the world’s top tailors don’t I see it as an unnecessary bit of flash that slightly disrupts the elegance of the suits.
Right. At the end of the day, Tom Ford is still a designer. The elongated stitching on the cuff to encourage one to leave a button undone is another TF gimmick along the same lines. While the quality is there, I don’t perceive very many truly well-dressed men flocking to TF over a more classic tailoring house. If we’re being honest, James Bond would never wear Tom Ford.
Making judgements on what we expect someone else to do or not do is the same whether or not it’s a fictional character or a real person. Both have history we can base our judgements on, but it’s easy to be wrong about both. I think Tom Ford is out of character for pre-Brosnan Bond. I picture that Bond using a tailor who doesn’t have the biggest name recognition, just as Fleming did. That Bond would probably mark someone who wears a distinctive designer suit as a cad. But as Bond now wears Tom Ford suits, that has become something that is part of the character. The question is if Bond’s suits in universe are supposed to be from Tom Ford, or is he just costumed in Tom Ford because Ford’s suits resemble English bespoke suits?
I'm a huge tf fan, if not for DC's bond would I be, prob not...
I know there are loads of sartorial thoughts, practices, guides...
But my view is, if you like it buy it. If you don't like it then don't buy it.
1. CR. 2. TSWLM. 3. LTK. 4. GF. 5. SF.
I’ve had an email from Stefani this morning requesting postal address and phone number. The shirts are shipping today.
"Dear Simon,
You are correct. This is below our usual Connolly standards. I’ll organise the dispatch tomorrow along with an email noting tracking details. Your request was handed over and should of been followed through alongside other similar requests months ago.
My sincere apologies.
I will also add a Connolly gift as a gesture, within your package"
which is quite nice, and indeed the package dispatched yesterday, got the DHL message.
So if some of you are still waiting for your promised Connolly stuff, maybe you can also get it via Ivan, as he quickly acted as promised this time.
Hope that helps some of you!
It’s a good question. The choice of suitings tends to make me think that in-universe we are supposed to think that the suits come from an English maker. (The suitings have tended to be rather staid and traditional beginning in Skyfall.) Overall, Craig’s Bond tends to favor English brands, so he doesn’t seem a natural fit for wearing an American designer.
But things make less sense once we get to Skyfall. We see that, not only did Bond come from money, it looks like he came from old money. It's at odds with the blue collar/utility knife thing established in the first two films.
Though, if you want to ascribe meaning (meaning I doubt was intentional), you could say Bond leaned into his "I always hated this place" thing and carried that to other aspects of his life. Skyfall Lodge looked very traditional country. A lot of Bond's life has been the opposite of Scottish countryside. Maybe it's a choice he made to separate himself from his childhood as much as possible.
But, while I love a Tom Ford suit (I own several), it'll never sit right with me that he's wearing an American designer label and not something from Savile Row. In my head cannon they're not Tom Ford; they're bespoke.
I try to think of it this way too. Tom Ford primarily models his suits after Tommy Nutter's updated Savile Row aesthetic with a few details from Naples, Italy. Most of Craig's suits from Tom Ford don't have the special Nutter touches (found in the Windsor model and in a few others) but still keep the Savile Row look (albeit without the Savile Row fit). Brioni can't pass for English suits but Tom Ford can.
Vesper is just making assumptions. Not stating facts. So I wouldn’t read anything into that.
And it's partly why he lets her outfit him with a superior dinner jacket.
She wasn’t right about a lot of things in that exchange according to his official bio released at the time, and Flemings Bond history. Including the charity assumption and being in the SAS and wearing a Rolex though, and was quite surprised when she was right about him being an orphan. Which then lead to the skewered comment. So his reaction may relate to disdain for her brutal incorrect assumptions. Either way, He’s better and more classicly dressed in Brioni and Turnbull and Asser than he ever was in Tom Ford.
And that’s why Brosnan is always higher in the ranking when people rate the Best Dressed Bond.
I guess it’s all a moot point anyway, as NTTD veers so far from Bonds historic garment choices both cinematic and novel related, that it may possibly be worse than LTK. It’s not Bond anymore, it’s a Craig fashion fest. I’m not sure I’m clicking with it. I maybe would wear quite a few of his NTTD pieces, but I’m pretty sure Bond wouldn’t, and really shouldn’t.
Oh good, the emails have gone. I was serendipitously passing so popped in earlier, expecting to confirm they would be arriving in the new year. But they had all just been delivered and Stephanie was working her way through a large pile of boxes and emailing down the list.
Given the bad press and in some quarters, *cough* instagram *cough*, outright abuse they have had from professed Bond 'fans', it's worth stating that the team were lovely and helpful, as they have been every time I have been in, and the shop itself remains a wonderful treasure trove highly recommended for a visit. The shirt is a joy, too.
And those people are correct.
I agree with this. The NTTD wardrobe is just Craig dressing as Craig. Virtually none of it feels like Bond to me, and I’ve avoided all of the pieces as a result. Some might point out that Moore was largely dictating Bond’s wardrobe during his tenure. While that’s true, and the results were sometimes uneven, Moore still looked elegant and within the confines of the character. Craig’s Bond has gone completely off the rails in this regard.
When he was "enjoying death" he was dressed pretty casually. Then when he is back in action it is back to the basic suiting. I don't own any TF suits as they are above my paygrade, but when I have tried them on I have found that they feel great, like Mr. Zaritsky has said in his videos they are like armor. That is what Bond needed was a suit that would not get in the way, but to be a slight protection against bumps and scratches. Though he looked great, I always thought of it as he didn't put much thought into his outfits aside from function thus the basically solid ties with patterned suits. Clean and simple. TF suits, to me, fit that nonchalant way of caring how you look without making it seem that way. English looking, but not expressly English. Also, I see those as bespoke suits in the cinematic world of JB too.
"Keeping British end up, sir." - RM "This never happened to the other fellow." - JL "I must be dreaming." SC
I've felt this about a lot of the casual outfits seen in NTTD, but we must allow for the possibility that the casual outfits are getting into the realm of "how does James Bond dress when he's not 007 anymore?" It's borderline uncharted territory, and might make more than a little narrative sense in-film. Lending credence to this notion is that when he does return to MI6, he does so in a suit that seems, to me, very 007 (https://www.jamesbondlifestyle.com/sites/default/files/ckeditor/images/news/190714-007-James-Bond-Daniel-Craig-whitehall-Tom-Ford-suit.jpg).
And while it's true in our world that the N Peal commando sweater is not something Bond would go to N Peal and buy, in-film it looks enough like a tactical garment that even Fleming's Bond might don it on a mission.
Precisely- I think that’s why it veers too far into cos-play territory for me...
I also agree entirely. The London suits and the Jamaica outfit (black shirt and grey jeans) are fine, but there's nothing else that suits me or catches my eye and consequently I've bought no clothes from NTTD except one tie and the black shirt.
I sized up a half size from usual 16/41 to 16.5/42.
Glad I listened to Stefanie's advice, it's perfect!
1. CR. 2. TSWLM. 3. LTK. 4. GF. 5. SF.
What was Stefanie's reasoning for having you go up one size?
"There are moments of great luxury in the life of a secret agent. There are assignments on which he is required to act the part of a very rich man;..."
In 2020 men in the places Fleming's Bond would have had to blend in - country clubs, members clubs, casinos, conferences, amongst the c-suite of the worlds biggest companies - often dress an awful lot, and in many of the same brands as, well...Daniel Craig, who is himself, a very rich man. Not to get too meta but modern Bond may well have to find himself blending into the world of Daniel Craig!
I am broad across the back and with a larger chest. I was advised to half size up due to cut (it is quite a slim cut through shoulders/chest - I did fear I'd have to have the sleeves shortened but in the wearing the sleeves were perfect. I'm a 44" chest and took a 17.5.
I did also appreciate the card...
Did anyone receive an email, dispatch notification or tracking details when they were sent out?
Up half size. Based on the shirts measurements based against a slim fit tf.
Figured I wouldn't be fastening the top button too.
As it's worked out the collar Def isn't large despite half up.
It's a very slim fit is my opinion.
1. CR. 2. TSWLM. 3. LTK. 4. GF. 5. SF.