I wanted to ask you, parfaitelumiere do you still have those extra sets of cufflinks. I realize that was a much older message but I figured it's worth ask. I would be interested in purchasing them for the 180 amount. I realize the money amount will be different as I am in the USA. Also it seems dealing with USA shipping seem to be helpful in some way for you I would definitely be willing to offer my services however I can help, The work you've been doing is simply amazing and I hope I can be of some assistance.
I realize this message is getting long but I thought all of you might want to take a look at the prop store sale from last year item number 117878. That golden gun is warm and very particular ways like excessive holding among other flaws. But has internals consisting of a functional hammer/trigger setup. I'm actually a gunsmith and a maker in general and the internals are quite fascinating. And it answers the question of the red jewel in the props as that seems to be what you actually press with the cufflink in order to fire the "gun". I'm currently reaching out to the company for further information and will hopefully have something more for you guys.
You made that one?
It's far from perfect but like how it's handmade with lots of genius.
Didn't see that picture of mechanisme, idea is simple, takes lots of room but is quite good.
I don't have cufflink left.
BTW the red "jewel" is not functionnal, original gun had no mechanism inside, it's a ingnite and wait thing, like old dynamite sticks, easy to see the fat killing scene, they show scaramanga with gimmick gun, then fat, then scaramanga with firing gun, waiting, fire is doe, he is blinking because surprised but no finger is moving, then fat falls and then scaramanga gets gimmick gun again, for quick disassembly.
Good to know about the gimmick gun and the bait and switch. Sucks that I missed out on the cufflinks is there any way you would be willing to sell plans or something like that? I know that you have your 3D print up on shapeways but a previous post said that you were working on some stuff for that print. If the 3D print is up to your specifications I'll probably purchase one now.
So I guess question one would be should I buy the 3D print or will you have a metallic one available soon. I would even be willing to buy just a brass version and have it gold plated on my own time if that were to help with the cost in a significant way. And I guess question two would be the cufflinks.
In respect to the gun picture above, no I am not the maker I'm trying to find more information about the maker and current person who possesses that particular GG. I was doing some more research and found that that builder of that blank firing GG actually put the finished product up on yourprops.com (I'll put the two photos below). In both photos you can see the square block behind the cufflink, the extra pin in the lighter pullout section as well as the extra flip down section on the bottom of the cigarette case. Either way it's a tantalizing idea which doesn't change how the props are created with a large empty spot inside the lighter and the usual wasted space in the cigarette case. I always thought it'd be impossible to seat the round all the way to the rear without the lid to the lighter being the hammer almost as it appears in the poster. Just for good measure I'll put up all the pictures I have for that particular build So you can see how it looked initially versus it's worn current state.
Either way I hope to make a purchase with you soon, I'm very excited to get one of your GG models in my hands. And your cufflinks on my wrists.
I saw those pictures on yourprop.
i made a different design, first for accuracy look, and also for full working item, two of my 10 guns will have full firing mechanism, 3 will have the working lighter, and 4 will have the working pen, six remaining only working cufflinks and case.
I may think about getting stuff made in the future, including a replacement pen for the FE golden gun, and maybe a replacement cufflink too, if so, I will order several parts, and can get a extra cufflink set for you.
Sounds great. In the meantime I think I might just buy your shapeways design as well. That would make three 3d printed golden guns for the collection. But definitely keep me in mind for the cufflinks as well as a GG with accurate working pieces. I don't think I'll need one that functions as a firearm (US laws are stupid and even a blank firing model may by problematic to import). But if I could get a golden gun made of a working pen,case, lighter and cufflinks I would definitely be all smiles.
I know the owner of both the Prop Store gun and a stainless steel one-piece prototype gun. Both are for sale. They have been kept carefully and only handled a few times. I'd like them to go to a good home. Send me a PM but serious inquiries only, please. Please do not send requests for photos, X-rays, etc. for research.
Customarily I would post photos and prices here, but this is an unusual situation and was prompted by today's messages on this thread.
I know the owner of both the Prop Store gun and a stainless steel one-piece prototype gun. Both are for sale. They have been kept carefully and only handled a few times. I'd like them to go to a good home. Send me a PM but serious inquiries only, please. Please do not send requests for photos, X-rays, etc. for research.
Customarily I would post photos and prices here, but this is an unusual situation and was prompted by today's messages on this thread.
Thank you.
Hi Matt, Just wondering...can you please post some photos, X-Rays, etc. for my research? Thanks! --Ed
Kan also knows the owner, but it seems he is not in touch for a while.If he ants to sell for reasonnable cost, I would be interested.
Also looking for spare SD 2 generation parts, to make a modified SD golden gun.
I saw those pictures on yourprop.
i made a different design, first for accuracy look, and also for full working item, two of my 10 guns will have full firing mechanism, 3 will have the working lighter, and 4 will have the working pen, six remaining only working cufflinks and case.
I may think about getting stuff made in the future, including a replacement pen for the FE golden gun, and maybe a replacement cufflink too, if so, I will order several parts, and can get a extra cufflink set for you.
I think a replacement pen with a cap that opens for the FE Golden Gun (Mk2) would be a hit.
Main issue for the replacement pen is to get enough interest so I could start a run.
I can make up to 50 pens, as I have all the nib blocks in stock.
But issue is making one is not same as making 50, price can strongly decrease when many pieces.
I just got your prints from shapeways parfaitelumiere, some sanding required but all in all way better than the competition. I'm going to post a few photos just to show how it came. So if anybody's interested I definitely recommend it (it's the white one made out of nylon). The other two were from Etsy and not really worth the time or money. Cheap parts breaking almost right away and the PLA really needed to be thick to work where as the nylon version is much thinner with better detail and longevity. That being said don't rough house as it is still just nylon not metal. I will also say that the nylon has a texture to it which I will probably remove to make it smooth before trying to mold.
Really beautiful work. I have a question, though - some replicas have the trigger with the screw-in stem still visible, and others like pictured above have the cufflink flush against the body of the gun. Which is more accurate, or is that impossible to know?
I just got your prints from shapeways parfaitelumiere
Interesting, you will be able to provide a feedbck, that is good.
I was thinking about a way to make gold color, using the silver 2 components "chrome paint" and yellow clear coat on it.
Especially interested to see how all assembles, and how the case spring is efficient, it won't be as good as metal one, of course, but very close to my main machined design.
I am working a another drawing, so it could be printed from steel, due to the clearance, and detail, I have to design it differently, without any springs, and want to use magnets instead.
If you want to try it, I should offer you special deal, with no comission at all on shapeways, also helping to find the magnets, tools and nib block.
Going back to the cufflink trigger. With your nylon shapeways design, once I sand it it should fit flush right now it's too tight to really go in. To reiterate for everybody I have not sanded on the gun yet So it will look much better after I have done so. I will tell you the major pieces that don't fit together straight from the print is the lid of the cigarette case to the bottom of the lighter, it's very tight. Same deal with the threads on the back of the pen to the lighter. The inner peace to the lighter is also too tight to fit inside the lighter just barely. The cigarette tray lid also does not fit on edges, it's a tiny bit too large which is good for fitting. The flap system for the lighter pushes the hinge out of place just slightly. All of these things are easily fixed with a tiny bit of sanding which will create perfect meshing pieces. These are not negative these are positive problems to have. The only negative problem I can see is the hinge for the top of the cigarette case appears to be loose by design but only slightly.
parfaitelumiere, if you're asking me if I'm interested in a steel version on shapeways, Yes let me know what you would like to do. If that message wasn't meant for me I'm still interested I love you to what you are thinking about Price went all said and done.
the white plastic printing is laser on powder so you have kind of grained texture, makking artificial bigger scale and smaller holes, once sanded down, it will quickly get the right scale, even the material is hard to sand down.
I tried other materials (fine detail resin) but material is expensive, weak, and has wrinkle issues during printing process, as it's jet technology, using 2 different materials, and both have different dilatation, making large and flat pieces wrinkle (top side is smaller than bottom side), so I sticked to the white plastic, if they should be a gold pla like material, I would choose that option.
I prefered to put minimal gap, so just small sanding down is ok, or better to try, shaving with a blade, just to make flat surface, best friction, and smaller dimension.
At least, yesterday ended as a good day, seeing this design was appreciated, because day started not that good.
I spent 15 days on that lighter, but the thread was too small, I asked a french company to enlarge it, they did...
This will ruin all the work, hoe to get a new piee, possible to adjust perfectly without new problems, if not, I will have to order a complete new lighter (about 1200-1500$)
So as I was writing that last reply I ended up playing with the gun some more. If you are to just keep messing with the pieces gently such as putting the inside piece of the lighter in and out gently working it a little bit farther back every so often, same with the threads on the pen but be careful not to bend up down left or right just twist gently back and forth That sort of deal. Pretty much every Peace fits together perfectly now except for the door for the cigarette case, the hooks that hold the top of the cigarette case together and to the lighter. Those two gently use a blunt scraping object you could use a knife I use the little tool to get your Sims card out of your phone. Both would work splendidly be gentle and take minimal amounts of material off and then the fit and finish is perfect without needing to sand. for the outside of the materials before painting and whatnot I would definitely sand but again very minimally and I would use a high grit nothing below 350 would be necessary and I would even go higher. However I am having a bit of trouble with the bullet into the lighter. Both appear to be the same dimension. Again carefully scrape out the intersection of the button for the lighter Don't mess with the bullet too much besides cleaning off the little bit of texture and the fit should be great.
Absolutely fantastic work, and there is nowhere near the cleanup needed for any of the PLAs that I've seen. This model is also the tightest I've seen when I'll put together with the least amount of wiggle sound and feel. I wouldn't pick any other material. You got the best thing besides a metal print (which would significantly increase the price). You're able to keep a thin dimensions and all that detail without sacrificing a similar strength to the other plastics.
I'm sorry that thread system failed on you. It's always heartbreaking because threads are basically the last piece to go in and then all that previous work goes away. I have a rule of thumb I hope it may help in moving forward if not it's just a good thing to keep to know. Three threads minimum for gripping and .100 of an Inch wall thickness minimum. But that rule is for metal, I would imagine something like four to five threads minimum and almost .200 of an inch in a more plastic type deal. Changing the thread pitch may allow for more room.
The wall thickness in that photo appears to be about a hundredth of an inch, I could be wrong but if that's brass it should have been okay. Is that material cast or machined?
no, that last one is just a factory entertainment gun, I made modifications, and gold plating, but you can purchase the gun online, like on ebay, actually FE gun is about 900$ on the market.
So, now that you've read all of the warnings, why is 3D printing the next industrial revolution?
3D printing is a whole new method of creating objects. To produce large batches of identical products, mass production relies on specialized equipment. If you want to make a new product, you'll need new machinery, retooling, or a completely different production line or method.
Any shape can be created using infrequent 3D printing and the same machine. In terms of software and materials, the tool chain is fully adaptable to any new form, allowing for rapid changes in the shape, design, look, or feel of any given product. It also allows you to create one-of-a-kind items in small production runs, allowing 3D printed goods to be more precise and useful to customers while also better filling any niche.
A 3D printer is similar to a computer in that it can be used for a range of purposes. As a result, the production costs of these devices can be distributed through a variety of industries and applications. This means that 3D printing-based product creation can be faster and more precise than non-printing-based product development. You can iterate on your final production technologies more often, resulting in better design, development, and delivery of products that better meet the needs of users than products that take longer to produce.
After a long time spent in foreign country, and now back to France, I decided to work again on golden gun project, so it would be finished for the movie 50 anniversary, if I can finish earlier I would be interested in offering a set of 50 guns, for the movie anniversary, with simplier process but keeping all the accuracy I designed, and functional cigarette case, pen and maybe also cufflinks.
I will also prepare a set of videos about each gun component, showing screenshots, reference pictures, real items and my replicas.
I would be interested, in that purpose, to obtain existing replicas of sd and fe guns, for complete video about the existing replicas too.
Comments
Fantastic craftsmanship. WOW!! {[]
This looks familiar ) -{
And the 3 functionnal lighters added, not working for now, but I think it will be ok, one day...
I realize this message is getting long but I thought all of you might want to take a look at the prop store sale from last year item number 117878. That golden gun is warm and very particular ways like excessive holding among other flaws. But has internals consisting of a functional hammer/trigger setup. I'm actually a gunsmith and a maker in general and the internals are quite fascinating. And it answers the question of the red jewel in the props as that seems to be what you actually press with the cufflink in order to fire the "gun". I'm currently reaching out to the company for further information and will hopefully have something more for you guys.
It's far from perfect but like how it's handmade with lots of genius.
Didn't see that picture of mechanisme, idea is simple, takes lots of room but is quite good.
I don't have cufflink left.
BTW the red "jewel" is not functionnal, original gun had no mechanism inside, it's a ingnite and wait thing, like old dynamite sticks, easy to see the fat killing scene, they show scaramanga with gimmick gun, then fat, then scaramanga with firing gun, waiting, fire is doe, he is blinking because surprised but no finger is moving, then fat falls and then scaramanga gets gimmick gun again, for quick disassembly.
So I guess question one would be should I buy the 3D print or will you have a metallic one available soon. I would even be willing to buy just a brass version and have it gold plated on my own time if that were to help with the cost in a significant way. And I guess question two would be the cufflinks.
In respect to the gun picture above, no I am not the maker I'm trying to find more information about the maker and current person who possesses that particular GG. I was doing some more research and found that that builder of that blank firing GG actually put the finished product up on yourprops.com (I'll put the two photos below). In both photos you can see the square block behind the cufflink, the extra pin in the lighter pullout section as well as the extra flip down section on the bottom of the cigarette case. Either way it's a tantalizing idea which doesn't change how the props are created with a large empty spot inside the lighter and the usual wasted space in the cigarette case. I always thought it'd be impossible to seat the round all the way to the rear without the lid to the lighter being the hammer almost as it appears in the poster. Just for good measure I'll put up all the pictures I have for that particular build So you can see how it looked initially versus it's worn current state.
Either way I hope to make a purchase with you soon, I'm very excited to get one of your GG models in my hands. And your cufflinks on my wrists.
i made a different design, first for accuracy look, and also for full working item, two of my 10 guns will have full firing mechanism, 3 will have the working lighter, and 4 will have the working pen, six remaining only working cufflinks and case.
I may think about getting stuff made in the future, including a replacement pen for the FE golden gun, and maybe a replacement cufflink too, if so, I will order several parts, and can get a extra cufflink set for you.
I look forward to hearing from you in the future.
Customarily I would post photos and prices here, but this is an unusual situation and was prompted by today's messages on this thread.
Thank you.
Hi Matt, Just wondering...can you please post some photos, X-Rays, etc. for my research? Thanks! --Ed
the spyboys Facebook page
Also looking for spare SD 2 generation parts, to make a modified SD golden gun.
I think a replacement pen with a cap that opens for the FE Golden Gun (Mk2) would be a hit.
I can make up to 50 pens, as I have all the nib blocks in stock.
But issue is making one is not same as making 50, price can strongly decrease when many pieces.
I don't think I've seen the solid stainless version, sounds interesting though.
Really beautiful work. I have a question, though - some replicas have the trigger with the screw-in stem still visible, and others like pictured above have the cufflink flush against the body of the gun. Which is more accurate, or is that impossible to know?
Interesting, you will be able to provide a feedbck, that is good.
I was thinking about a way to make gold color, using the silver 2 components "chrome paint" and yellow clear coat on it.
Especially interested to see how all assembles, and how the case spring is efficient, it won't be as good as metal one, of course, but very close to my main machined design.
I am working a another drawing, so it could be printed from steel, due to the clearance, and detail, I have to design it differently, without any springs, and want to use magnets instead.
If you want to try it, I should offer you special deal, with no comission at all on shapeways, also helping to find the magnets, tools and nib block.
parfaitelumiere, if you're asking me if I'm interested in a steel version on shapeways, Yes let me know what you would like to do. If that message wasn't meant for me I'm still interested I love you to what you are thinking about Price went all said and done.
)
Fair enough, I saw this one in the thread and didn't know the provenance of the photo -
I tried other materials (fine detail resin) but material is expensive, weak, and has wrinkle issues during printing process, as it's jet technology, using 2 different materials, and both have different dilatation, making large and flat pieces wrinkle (top side is smaller than bottom side), so I sticked to the white plastic, if they should be a gold pla like material, I would choose that option.
I prefered to put minimal gap, so just small sanding down is ok, or better to try, shaving with a blade, just to make flat surface, best friction, and smaller dimension.
At least, yesterday ended as a good day, seeing this design was appreciated, because day started not that good.
I spent 15 days on that lighter, but the thread was too small, I asked a french company to enlarge it, they did...
This will ruin all the work, hoe to get a new piee, possible to adjust perfectly without new problems, if not, I will have to order a complete new lighter (about 1200-1500$)
Absolutely fantastic work, and there is nowhere near the cleanup needed for any of the PLAs that I've seen. This model is also the tightest I've seen when I'll put together with the least amount of wiggle sound and feel. I wouldn't pick any other material. You got the best thing besides a metal print (which would significantly increase the price). You're able to keep a thin dimensions and all that detail without sacrificing a similar strength to the other plastics.
I'm sorry that thread system failed on you. It's always heartbreaking because threads are basically the last piece to go in and then all that previous work goes away. I have a rule of thumb I hope it may help in moving forward if not it's just a good thing to keep to know. Three threads minimum for gripping and .100 of an Inch wall thickness minimum. But that rule is for metal, I would imagine something like four to five threads minimum and almost .200 of an inch in a more plastic type deal. Changing the thread pitch may allow for more room.
The wall thickness in that photo appears to be about a hundredth of an inch, I could be wrong but if that's brass it should have been okay. Is that material cast or machined?
So, now that you've read all of the warnings, why is 3D printing the next industrial revolution?
3D printing is a whole new method of creating objects. To produce large batches of identical products, mass production relies on specialized equipment. If you want to make a new product, you'll need new machinery, retooling, or a completely different production line or method.
Any shape can be created using infrequent 3D printing and the same machine. In terms of software and materials, the tool chain is fully adaptable to any new form, allowing for rapid changes in the shape, design, look, or feel of any given product. It also allows you to create one-of-a-kind items in small production runs, allowing 3D printed goods to be more precise and useful to customers while also better filling any niche.
A 3D printer is similar to a computer in that it can be used for a range of purposes. As a result, the production costs of these devices can be distributed through a variety of industries and applications. This means that 3D printing-based product creation can be faster and more precise than non-printing-based product development. You can iterate on your final production technologies more often, resulting in better design, development, and delivery of products that better meet the needs of users than products that take longer to produce.
Hello,
After a long time spent in foreign country, and now back to France, I decided to work again on golden gun project, so it would be finished for the movie 50 anniversary, if I can finish earlier I would be interested in offering a set of 50 guns, for the movie anniversary, with simplier process but keeping all the accuracy I designed, and functional cigarette case, pen and maybe also cufflinks.
I will also prepare a set of videos about each gun component, showing screenshots, reference pictures, real items and my replicas.
I would be interested, in that purpose, to obtain existing replicas of sd and fe guns, for complete video about the existing replicas too.