That looks more like it! You'll have to let us know how it measures for things like point length and such.
You called it the "Regent" pattern but I thought T&A previously told you that Brosnan only wore the POW in TND/TWINE and never had a Regent collar on file (that apparently the "REG" stood for Regular)?
Indeed, but the tune seems to have changed a bit.. Now they were talking about a regent..
Collar points measured 3 inches. Given that the collar band and back height is clearly raised from a standard T&A collar, whereas the collar points seem not to have been lengthened equally, I do wonder if this actually might be the real thing.
I remember Matt S theorising that the collar was raised somewhat, but with non-increased collar points, which helped give it its distinctive look.
I decided to launder the shirt before doing photos wearing it this time, as there's quite a bit of shrink allowance that needs to be washed out. In my experience this can quite affect how a collar looks when worn.
Beautiful collar, @Bond_and_beyond! I’m happy to see they finally confirmed my suspicions! It’s both higher then standard and has longer points, but it’s raised 1/4” while the points are lengthened 1/8”. T&A made me a POW with those specs by mistake, and it still doesn’t look like the TWINE collar (but it does look TND). I’m glad you pushed them for this collar. Interesting that they are calling it a Regent now, since the person who originally designed it told me it’s a modified POW that’s in between the Regent and Prince of Wales. Now I’m curious to know how close the 16 collar is to a stock POW.
I think the tie space is a bit misleading on the photo, particularly since it shows an unlaundered shirt with the full half inch or so of shrink allowance etc.
I took a quick photo on the way home from work today (so apologies for the crap quality) which at least to me shows that the tie space is about the same as for Brosnan's. The shirt has been laundered once, and probably needs two, three more washes before the shrink allowance is shrunk out.
One thing to note is how much how tight and high the tie knot is affects the overall look of the collar (T&A repeats this message every time I talk to them). Brosnan has clearly had the knot tightened / corrected for each take / shot.
Many thanks Matt! I think I will make this my go to collar for future orders. Need one in the white Sea Island cotton they used for TWINE now.
Receiving the shirt with (finally) an accurate collar on the same weekend I went to see NTTD, has left me with mixed Bond-related feelings. Happy and miserable at the same time😁
I visited Bury St on Friday, and ordered the shirt in the white Royal Oxford also (#9298) to complete the TWINE look.
They showed me the order form and it simply said "Pierce Brosnan's Regent collar", so it seems that is how this collar is referred to internally at T&A.
For me I am now fairly convinced that this is the real thing, it will be interesting to see how it turns out in white.
Thanks! Well that certainly makes the most sense and would be consistent with what we speculated earlier in this thread about the collar types based on his paper pattern. Not sure why they gave you the runaround before about the POW collar on his order form lol. Seemed rather obvious it was not the same as the collar in TND.
I think the thing about the PoW is that in the cover letter they sent EON specifying no shirts, cloth, delivery dates etc it says "POW" under collar. Go figure..
I’m thinking that originally the collar was intended to be the TND POW collar, and then they changed the collar when Lindy saw Robert Gillotte’s collar.
Brosnan's Regent collar was changed from the collar that Hemming saw Gillotte wear. Gillotte originally made the collar for one of his customers, which was a 2-button collar. Gillotte then wore it himself but found it uncomfortable. It was made into a 1-button collar for Brosnan, so it's not the same collar that Gillotte wore. The New York store still calls the collar by the name of that original customer, even when it's a 1-button collar.
Because of the medium-high/high rise trousers Brosnan wears, it doesn't really seem possible for him to tie them to fall at the waistband unless they are shortened, or he is using a double four in hand, I would suspect.
I have all the ties T&A has released and when I tie with a standard four in hand they fall at the waistband even though I wear high waisted trousers (probably higher than Brosnan, they are of the double pleated Connery style). The ties are so thick (particularly the Rubyeon) that this might impact how much the knot "shortens" the tie I guess.
Interesting... I'm probably about the same height as Brosnan but since switching to high rise trousers, can't tie knots in a similar manner to his without the tail end hanging too long by a few inches now. Perhaps he did use the double four in hand though on several occasions, as speculated on bondsuits.com, to use up extra length.
Comments
That looks more like it! You'll have to let us know how it measures for things like point length and such.
You called it the "Regent" pattern but I thought T&A previously told you that Brosnan only wore the POW in TND/TWINE and never had a Regent collar on file (that apparently the "REG" stood for Regular)?
Indeed, but the tune seems to have changed a bit.. Now they were talking about a regent..
Collar points measured 3 inches. Given that the collar band and back height is clearly raised from a standard T&A collar, whereas the collar points seem not to have been lengthened equally, I do wonder if this actually might be the real thing.
I remember Matt S theorising that the collar was raised somewhat, but with non-increased collar points, which helped give it its distinctive look.
I decided to launder the shirt before doing photos wearing it this time, as there's quite a bit of shrink allowance that needs to be washed out. In my experience this can quite affect how a collar looks when worn.
Will post photos soon.
BaB
Beautiful collar, @Bond_and_beyond! I’m happy to see they finally confirmed my suspicions! It’s both higher then standard and has longer points, but it’s raised 1/4” while the points are lengthened 1/8”. T&A made me a POW with those specs by mistake, and it still doesn’t look like the TWINE collar (but it does look TND). I’m glad you pushed them for this collar. Interesting that they are calling it a Regent now, since the person who originally designed it told me it’s a modified POW that’s in between the Regent and Prince of Wales. Now I’m curious to know how close the 16 collar is to a stock POW.
Thanks Matt!
Some further photos I took upon receipt:
BaB
Looks great. Seems like Brosnan had slightly more tie space than is typical on T&A shirts, though it didn’t really show on film.
That's a Casino Royale amount of tie space. Brosnan's didn't have quite that much, but it's probably within the standard margin of error.
If you could share a photo of the collar laid flat, that would be great too! Thanks!
I think the tie space is a bit misleading on the photo, particularly since it shows an unlaundered shirt with the full half inch or so of shrink allowance etc.
I took a quick photo on the way home from work today (so apologies for the crap quality) which at least to me shows that the tie space is about the same as for Brosnan's. The shirt has been laundered once, and probably needs two, three more washes before the shrink allowance is shrunk out.
One thing to note is how much how tight and high the tie knot is affects the overall look of the collar (T&A repeats this message every time I talk to them). Brosnan has clearly had the knot tightened / corrected for each take / shot.
BaB
It definitely has that curve that's such a signature to that collar.
Here's a another (bad) photo showing the collar in action this evening;
BaB
That looks bang on! It looks the same as the collar my friend in New York has. It’s a sight to see in person.
Many thanks Matt! I think I will make this my go to collar for future orders. Need one in the white Sea Island cotton they used for TWINE now.
Receiving the shirt with (finally) an accurate collar on the same weekend I went to see NTTD, has left me with mixed Bond-related feelings. Happy and miserable at the same time😁
BaB
I’m stopping by Bury st on Friday and thought I’d order the white TWINE shirt as well. Does anyone have the white cloth no handy?
thanks.
BaB
They’re all sequential in the fabric book… I forget the exact # but its something like 9000, 9001, 9002 which are the white, cream, and mid-blue.
Check this out this link to from tailors with love:
The blue shirt codes are mentioned there, I believe the TWINE white shirt code is 9298 if I recall.
Hope this helps
Instagram: instagram.com/tie_another_day
BaB, just curious how long the collar points measure?
The collar points are 3 inches.
I visited Bury St on Friday, and ordered the shirt in the white Royal Oxford also (#9298) to complete the TWINE look.
They showed me the order form and it simply said "Pierce Brosnan's Regent collar", so it seems that is how this collar is referred to internally at T&A.
For me I am now fairly convinced that this is the real thing, it will be interesting to see how it turns out in white.
BaB
Thanks! Well that certainly makes the most sense and would be consistent with what we speculated earlier in this thread about the collar types based on his paper pattern. Not sure why they gave you the runaround before about the POW collar on his order form lol. Seemed rather obvious it was not the same as the collar in TND.
I think the thing about the PoW is that in the cover letter they sent EON specifying no shirts, cloth, delivery dates etc it says "POW" under collar. Go figure..
BaB
I’m thinking that originally the collar was intended to be the TND POW collar, and then they changed the collar when Lindy saw Robert Gillotte’s collar.
Interesting thought. It seems to simply be referred to as "Pierce Brosnan's Regent collar" now. At least that is what they put on my order form.
BaB
Brosnan's Regent collar was changed from the collar that Hemming saw Gillotte wear. Gillotte originally made the collar for one of his customers, which was a 2-button collar. Gillotte then wore it himself but found it uncomfortable. It was made into a 1-button collar for Brosnan, so it's not the same collar that Gillotte wore. The New York store still calls the collar by the name of that original customer, even when it's a 1-button collar.
BaB, do you know (or could find out) if Brosnan's T&A ties were shortened from the usual off the peg length?
The screen used ones I had/have are exactly the same.
Why would we think they are shortened?
BaB
Because of the medium-high/high rise trousers Brosnan wears, it doesn't really seem possible for him to tie them to fall at the waistband unless they are shortened, or he is using a double four in hand, I would suspect.
I have all the ties T&A has released and when I tie with a standard four in hand they fall at the waistband even though I wear high waisted trousers (probably higher than Brosnan, they are of the double pleated Connery style). The ties are so thick (particularly the Rubyeon) that this might impact how much the knot "shortens" the tie I guess.
BaB
Interesting... I'm probably about the same height as Brosnan but since switching to high rise trousers, can't tie knots in a similar manner to his without the tail end hanging too long by a few inches now. Perhaps he did use the double four in hand though on several occasions, as speculated on bondsuits.com, to use up extra length.
That's interesting, even with the Rubyeon tie?
BaB
To be honest I wear that one the least. But I do have the same issue with the TND copper tie which is roughly of similar thickness.