Magnoli Patterson Replica - Review

Comments

• HarryCanyon Posts: 356MI6 Agent

  June 14

  As I've received a few DMs on this, I'll summarize my issues.

  Issue 1: The pattern is wrong in a few areas.

  • The back is supposed to be flat without any pleats or folds. This is apparent on the original jacket and also on the picture on the Magnoli site. Mine has pleats on it. This is flat out incorrect and worthy of a return in and of itself.
  • The collar is wrong. It's not big enough and does not lay right, both when zipped and unzipped. There's also an ugly fold on one side of the collar that ruins the jacket, in my opinion.

  Issue 2: Craftsmanship issues.

  • The quality of the leather itself is not great and there are many permanent creases/folds on it, especially on the front (and particularly on the collar, as already noted above).
  • The lining utilizes too much fabric. When you put it on, it all bunches up on you and essentially becomes winter weight. The sleeves, in particular, are too tight with all of the excess fabric.

  Issue 3: Sizing issues.

  • Most of the sizing was right (or close enough) but the waist is off. I used an existing Belstaff jacket that fits me perfectly as a measurement template and the waist is clearly wrong. They sent a measurement picture to prove it was right but the only way I could get it to the desired measurement was by really, really pulling on it. It should be the right measurement when you just lay the jacket flat. I do want to point out that they got the measurements on the sleeves absolutely correct, though. Belstaff jackets have long sleeves typically...as such, I modified the measurements on my Belstaff template to shorten the sleeves a bit, and the Patterson replica was absolutely perfect on this measurement.

  Some positives: I was pretty satisfied with the black on the jacket I received so that wasn't a problem. As I understand it, the Belstaff process is patented so it can't be copied outright. It wasn't as glossy as the Belstaff but it was good enough. The zippers/hardware all seemed nice as well.

  DM if you want pictures. Again, I don't want to turn this into a bashing thread. I just submitted all of this to Magnoli this morning (my time) and I want to give them adequate time to respond and offer a solution. I'm pretty sure I'll just be returning the jacket and not going back and forth with additional attempts, though.
• Pandemic Posts: 134MI6 Agent

  June 14

  No slight on Magnoli at all, but if I wanted a custom leather jacket made then I’d go to a shop that had done nothing but make custom leather jackets for decades. Pattern development is complex and not the same for leather jackets versus regular pattern making.

  in the UK, I’d start with Greg Field from Field Leathers and in the US I’d start with Johnson Leathers in San Francisco. Aero and Lewis are also great, but don’t do true custom work. Simmons Bilt is an option, but one I’d be cautious about recommending. Thedi in Greece is also excellent, but have their own house style they won’t deviate too far from.
• HarryCanyon Posts: 356MI6 Agent

  June 14

  https://www.ajb007.co.uk/discussion/comment/1071718#Comment_1071718

  I really liked your Levi's Menlo pattern custom that you showed in that one thread. I think you got it from Johnson Leathers. I may pursue that as an option, although I'm not flying out to Frisco to get it done.
• Pandemic Posts: 134MI6 Agent

  June 14

  https://www.ajb007.co.uk/discussion/comment/1071720#Comment_1071720

  Mine is as not intended to copy the Menlo, but I guess there are similarities. I’m sure you could ask them to do a direct copy if you wanted.

  I got mine in a thick Horween CXL brown leather which is supurb, though there were so many different hides to choose from that it wasn’t easy (they will mail you little sample swabs).

  I ordered entirely through email and they sent me a cloth mock-up first to test the fit, before they made the jacket. Their website is pretty old, so just reach out directly and they will help you out. I think a lot of their business is still walk-ins and technology isn’t their passion. They also get a lot of contracts to make police motorcycle jackets.

  If you decide to go this route, ask for Damon - he was amazing in walking me through the process and answering all my questions.
• HarryCanyon Posts: 356MI6 Agent

  June 15

  https://www.ajb007.co.uk/discussion/comment/1071730#Comment_1071730

  Cheers, thanks! Yeah, their website appears to be under construction. I'll give 'em a call and see what they say.
• HarryCanyon Posts: 356MI6 Agent

  June 19

  Following up: I've received an email back from Magnoli on my complaints with the jacket. They're looking into it and plan on getting back to me with a solution in a few days.