TND T&A Shirts

Monza860Monza860 USPosts: 501MI6 Agent
I have spoken to many of you on this subject already and everyone has a different possibility for how they did this.
How do you take a standard T&A Shirt collar that looks like this:
http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/jj258/monza860/?action=view&current=TALtBlue1.jpg
and transform it into this:
http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/jj258/monza860/James%20Bond/?action=view&current=DSC00288.jpg
Away at Boot Camp, won't be back until April the earliest.

http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/jj258/monza860/

Comments

  • Asp9mmAsp9mm Over the Hills and Far Away.Posts: 7,535MI6 Agent
    With this...

    DSC00710.jpg
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  • Monza860Monza860 USPosts: 501MI6 Agent
    ASP9mm has told me they are the same, and if I manipulate it with my fingers it certainly looks like it.
    Away at Boot Camp, won't be back until April the earliest.

    http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/jj258/monza860/
  • Asp9mmAsp9mm Over the Hills and Far Away.Posts: 7,535MI6 Agent
    Yeah looks right to me, although that picture does not show it well. T&A confirmed that the collars were standard in TND as I had several made way back in the same material and cut etc. I still have one of them.
    ..................Asp9mmSIG-1-2.jpg...............
  • Monza860Monza860 USPosts: 501MI6 Agent
    By any chance do you still have the reference number for the material?
    Away at Boot Camp, won't be back until April the earliest.

    http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/jj258/monza860/
  • urhashurhash USPosts: 986MI6 Agent
    edited January 2009
    Asp9mm wrote:
    Yeah looks right to me, although that picture does not show it well. T&A confirmed that the collars were standard in TND as I had several made way back in the same material and cut etc. I still have one of them.

    They didn't give you the dirty look for requesting that? ;)

    Btw, did you purposely bend the collar stay just for demonstration purposes or do you usually have them like that for the Brosnanian puffed collar look?
  • satanamasatanama SPAINPosts: 59MI6 Agent
    I'd say it's not a "collar stay" thing, it has more to do with the type of collar (whether it's "fused" or not), the interlining and the "quality" of it, how rigid it is, more rigid and softer interlinings can be combined placing them in different parts of the collar in order to get a desired effect....

    You could also construct a crispier/more rigid collar and use flexible stays.

    A lot on this subject has been written in www.styleforum.net and www.askandyaboutclothes.com forums. In this latest one search for posts by Udeshi and Alexander Kabbaz.

    Hope this helps,

    Iñaki
  • Asp9mmAsp9mm Over the Hills and Far Away.Posts: 7,535MI6 Agent
    edited January 2009
    I actually wore a standard collar T&A shirt today with the regular bones you get with T&A and the collar curves get to look like that throughout the day naturally. These pics were taken half an hour after putting it on...

    DSC00711.jpg

    DSC00714.jpg

    DSC00712.jpg
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  • Asp9mmAsp9mm Over the Hills and Far Away.Posts: 7,535MI6 Agent
    It is the angle of the STRAIGHT bones that affects the curve, plus the fitting. I'm pretty sure that it will have to be bespoke to get that look, as the tailor angles the bone pocket to achieve the best collar to neck ratio.

    The material reference (I think) is 1002 and it is Sea Island cotton.
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  • Monza860Monza860 USPosts: 501MI6 Agent
    That's one thing I have to say is that I ordered my collars a 15 1/2, too big I'm a 15 or at least I am now. Do you guys think a tailor can alter the collar size?
    Away at Boot Camp, won't be back until April the earliest.

    http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/jj258/monza860/
  • Asp9mmAsp9mm Over the Hills and Far Away.Posts: 7,535MI6 Agent
    petej2811 wrote:
    Were we 'Casino Royale'-ing it today, Asp?

    I certainly was, I was just missing the UMP... maybe tomorrow {[]

    DSC00713.jpg
    ..................Asp9mmSIG-1-2.jpg...............
  • Asp9mmAsp9mm Over the Hills and Far Away.Posts: 7,535MI6 Agent
    Monza860 wrote:
    That's one thing I have to say is that I ordered my collars a 15 1/2, too big I'm a 15 or at least I am now. Do you guys think a tailor can alter the collar size?

    I bet that's the reason then. I'm sure a decent tailor could reduce it for you.
    ..................Asp9mmSIG-1-2.jpg...............
  • Asp9mmAsp9mm Over the Hills and Far Away.Posts: 7,535MI6 Agent
    urhash wrote:
    Asp9mm wrote:
    Yeah looks right to me, although that picture does not show it well. T&A confirmed that the collars were standard in TND as I had several made way back in the same material and cut etc. I still have one of them.

    They didn't give you the dirty look for requesting that? ;)

    Btw, did you purposely bend the collar stay just for demonstration purposes or do you usually have them like that for the Brosnanian puffed collar look?

    There was a young guy that used to work in the shop area back then who was a big Bond fan, so I was in good company.

    I bent it for the purpose of this thread. After wearing the T&A shirt today I realised that you get that collar look naturally if it is bespoke. I've learnt quite alot more about tailoring that I never gave them credit for in the past, and it just goes to show that bespoke really does make a difference, as the angle of the stay pocket is different for every individual - amazing.

    Cheers Monza for raising this subject, it has enlightened me {[]
    ..................Asp9mmSIG-1-2.jpg...............
  • Monza860Monza860 USPosts: 501MI6 Agent
    I'll have to read up on that tailoring, do you have a link?
    Away at Boot Camp, won't be back until April the earliest.

    http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/jj258/monza860/
  • Coldheart96Coldheart96 Florida , USAPosts: 203MI6 Agent
    Asp,

    Which knot are you using to tie your neck tie? Looks very elegant.
    Bond: "Who would spend $1 million to kill me?"
    M: "Jealous husbands. Outraged chefs. Humiliated tailors. The list is endless!"
  • urhashurhash USPosts: 986MI6 Agent
    Was that guy around when they would bring Brosnan in for his fittings?
  • redsleighdownredsleighdown USAPosts: 450MI6 Agent
    Great discussion guys, I had been curious about this as well. Asp, who made the suit in your pics? Thanks, cheers.
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