Goldeneye mine
CJ007Goldeneye
LondonPosts: 587MI6 Agent
Hey guys ive just aquired one of the joysticks and stripped it down to the needed part! I know some people want these and they are quite hard to get hold of, and saitek don't make that particular model any more as its like 15 years old. So im gonna do a mould and cast them from resin for anyone that wants them will be about £10 depending on how much material is used. Benifit for this i think is that gives true weight as if there was electronics and explosives concealed, also wont have mould line, screw holes, other uneccesary marks, and paint will adhere much better as to the current plasticey glossy surface!:)
Comments
Sounds like you're going for a solid resin casting. Not a bad idea if you just want to add a static piece.
Careful with your price quotes as your costs are dependent on the current cost of resin (which is an oil by-product affected by rising gas costs) as well as the cost of the silicone. A solid casting would use a LOT of resin. You might re-consider casting it as a hollow-cast or Roto-cast to save money and so pass along the savings.
I would suggest you keep all the mould lines, screw holes, etc, etc...as they were on the original prop. Otherwise your replica will not be authentic.
Additionally, unless you scrub off the mould release agent from your castings you will be VERY surprised to find that the paint will NOT adhere to it correctly.
As you all know, I convert the actual units and I have NO problem with adherence of paint to the surface as I lightly sand the surface with a Scotch-Brite pad.
Best of luck with your replicas.
Ed
TheSpyBoys.com
the spyboys Facebook page
Ed knows what I'm talking about, let's just say that it will match the lights and sounds from the film as well as different modes to match the "Timed Mine" and "Proximity Mine" functions from the Goldeneye game.
If I don't have to keep finding the shells on German Ebay this could be a but of fun. As is, I only have 2 extra shells I was going to convert for some other fans leaving two for my car and one for Ed.
--Brian
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=22559
and just left ou two LEDs.
As far as the centre button goes I was having the same problem and got in touch with Ken Smith. He did it by taking a piece of common 15mm copper water pipe and setting the switch into it, then using epoxy putty, fill the top and using a lubricant, roll a table tennis ball around to form the concave shape, once dry, degrease and paint. Gives an excellent result. Since then I have sourced the correct 15mm red concave cap to save all that work. This just needs painting to give the deep red non plastic look:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=0339639
Hope this helps, oh and by the way Ed is right about painting the original mines, just rub it down well to take off the shine, then prime and colour. You get a really good solid finish that doesn't flake off.
The Gadget Meister
www.justgiving.com/inMemoryOfLewisCollins
www.helpforheroes.org.uk
We are working together on this, and a few upcoming projects, which will incorporate both sound and lights to the items to make them match and perform as we see them on the screen.
Brian plans on coverting a replica watch that will transmit a signal to the Goldeneye mine which will will turn it on and run through its programmed functions.
I'm not EVEN going to tell you what he's doing to his BMW....
By the way Brian...stop reading the boards and get back to work!!! LOL!!
Ed
TheSpyBoys.com
the spyboys Facebook page
The reason to keep everything as is is because it's on the original prop in the film.
Anal retentive collectors, like myself, appreciate that the prop we have in our collection looks EXACTLY like the one used in the film....right down to the screw holes.
I don't have a problem with what you are doing as it's creative and your artistic license permits you to do your own version.
The cutaway version I did, for example, isn't even in the movie...but I think it looks cool and it was FUN to do!!!
...And THAT is what this is all about...HAVE FUN!!! I look forward to seeing your replica.
Ed
TheSpyBoys.com
the spyboys Facebook page
As far as I know the Philips keyfinder was either a standard product or a slight modification for the film. If I can't find an original one before I make my CNC BMW parts run then I guess I'll have to make my own moulds for one and put a beeper in it. Not sure if I can find some microphone pattern recognition widget that will fit in that little thing, the mines are much easier.
--Brian
--Brian
http://cgi.ebay.de/Joystick-von-Saitek-neuwertig_W0QQitemZ320430297384QQcmdZViewItemQQptZM%C3%A4use_Tastaturen?hash=item4a9b225128&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
Sitting at 1 Euro..........which is what I paid for both of mine (excuse the pun)
Only ever seen them come up on www.ebay.de and there are two more in addittion to the one above.
www.justgiving.com/inMemoryOfLewisCollins
www.helpforheroes.org.uk
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=35952
You need the N89AX Holder which is blacked brass and far better than any plastic alternative and the N74AX 5mm LEDs.
All the best, just need to fit the electrics into mine and it's done, been sidetracked by the GE Electronic lockpick which is coming on nicely.
GM -{
www.justgiving.com/inMemoryOfLewisCollins
www.helpforheroes.org.uk
C'mon, GM, I shared my pics of the construction for everyone's enjoyment....Share a pic or 2 with us of your progress.
Ed
TheSpyBoys.com
the spyboys Facebook page
Pics are coming, I promise, along with the YOLT medal ribbons display. Just got to clear junk off my copy stand, find a suitable backdrop, possibly green baize? and then persuade the other half to part with her Canon 40D for a few days. May have to surgically remove it as she uses it most days. 8-)
GM -{
www.justgiving.com/inMemoryOfLewisCollins
www.helpforheroes.org.uk