casino royale tuxedo
you_know_my_name
Posts: 21MI6 Agent
anyone know where to get a cheap dinner jacket similar to craigs in CR with the collar that blends in rather then being silk and standing out? love the mangoli one but its well out of my price range 
Comments
It has the grosgrain silk trim, which isn't as shiny as satin. JAB is notorious for their ridiculous sales. Have some patience & you'll be able to snag this tuxedo for about $300. Just keep checking the page once a week.
I got the same deal last year. Honestly, I don't think there's a better deal on a RTW tuxedo for that price. It has all the features of a classic, traditional tuxedo (just like the CR one), plus the beautiful grosgrain silk trim. You definitely can't go wrong with that deal, IMO.
According to Matt S' "The Suits of James Bond" website, the CR tuxedo did have grosgrain silk on the lapels: http://thesuitsofjamesbond.com/?p=50
Grosgrain is very different from the satin trim that is usually seen on tuxedos. It has a ribbed, matte finish, as opposed to the smooth, shiny look of satin. It does blend better with the wool collar than satin would. Only a close inspection reveals the different textures between the 2 materials.
For what it's worth, here are 2 pics of me in my JAB tux: http://i481.photobucket.com/albums/rr177/B_LU8/P1040702.jpg
http://i481.photobucket.com/albums/rr177/B_LU8/P1040714.jpg
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brioni-James-Bond-Pierce-Brosnan-Smoking-Jacket-Blazer-Sakko-Black-NEW-/160723605009?pt=US_CSA_MC_Outerwear&hash=item256bdf9611
Wow... I mean there is very very little proof to back up such a value!
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/130543732868?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
But don't trust believe for a second that it's made in Italy and fully canvassed.. but still, for the price, it's perfect.
But it has 2 buttons on the front. Bond only wears the classic 1-button front on his dinner jackets, except for the disaster in Licence to Kill.
It also has a satin breast pocket, another fail. Pocket flaps shouldn't be there either, but they can usually be tucked in.
Weren't you about in the 80s, Matt?
Besides, you try hiring a classic evening suit at a moments notice in Latin American backwater Isthmus....
(I like LTK, one of the best Bonds of the lot. And I've always got what the filmakers were trying to achieve with the style and limitations of Bond's available wadrobe based on the "off the cuff" situation of the story. Better that than the bottomless suitcase of many other Bonds, IMO)
I want to buy it
What do you say? It's the same model that also in the movie?
It's very close in style, though the one in Casino Royale was black, not midnight. And it had grosgrain facings, not satin like this one. But this one being midnight makes it better. Pierce Brosnan's dinner suits were mostly midnight, though they had grosgrain lapels. And the ones without a waistcoat had flat front trousers. It's not an exact replica of any of Bond's dinner suits, so if that's what you are looking for don't get it. And for that price you'd be better off having something made for you.
I can buy the replica of Magnoli...
There are other options?
How can I order directly from Brioni?
And there are better tailors than Magnoli who can make you a replica. You just need to find a tailor that makes a straight shoulder and a clean silhouette.
An interesting observation.
One assumes this is from personal experience with Magnoli?
Or is this just a personal suspicion and generalisation?
Ok, first of all, as I always advise when this type of thread pops up, choose a suit (any suit not just a dinner suit) that will look great on YOU and that you are happy with, first and foremost. If it replicates a style worn by one of the Bond actors, that can be a nice coincidence. However, if they make a suiting gaff, its a one off, and easy for them to replace. Yours is yours for life, usually. Assuming you look after it and yourself properly.
Secondly - if you are going for the grosgrain weave lapels, the side stripe on the trousers, and the bow tie should be made of the same fabric if you are wearing formal dress correctly. - That's a general style tip, not an 007 one. Many get it wrong though. Personally I prefer the satin style cause I fell it its more luxurious. The quality of the satin can also determine how bright the sheen factor is, and I carefully match accessories like bow ties and waistcoats.
In the end though, the critical part of all of this, is if you want a dinner suit that flatters you and makes you look amazing (regardless of fabrics and cost) you have to go to a professional tailor in person and get them to measure you up properly. Anything done long distance or off the rail will lack the kind of control or dedicated fit that only visiting a tailor can provide. - Sometimes you can get lucky, there are very good manufactured suit suppliers out there. However only by going to a tailor can you specify and control details can include: On the jacket - lapel style, vents or no vents , lapel button hole or not , number of jacket buttons, (inc the sleeves) single or double breasted.
Add to that an understanding of what does not work - no turn ups, belt loops or pleats on the trousers, and the more fancy the style of jacket, the faster it will date. (Loud colours look crap). Again a professional tailor can advise and guide you. - It looks bad on them if they fail to make you look good.
I got my dinner suit from an excellent tailoring company and realised its what the effect is like in the mirror that counts, not the big screen. - As others in here have easily demonstrated.
Here is Brioni's website. (I think) http://brioni.com/
I have no experience, just from what I've seen. I've seen some of their clothes posted here and they never looked very impressive. They don't measure you themselves, so there is much more room for error. For a real bespoke suit you are measured by the cutter. At the very least, you need to be measured by someone who is familiar with the way they cut their suit. That I find is a major fault with the way they make their suits, something that Thunderbird 2 also mentioned. Because of that it seems that they have a lot of trouble making a properly fitted waistcoat. They also don't offer fabrics from reputable mills on their site.
Thunderbird 2 gives some good advice, though both James Bond and I disagree on pleats. Every Bond has worn pleated trousers except Roger Moore. It helps if they are forward pleats like Sean Connery wore, as opposed to the baggier reverse pleats that Dalton, Brosnan and Craig have worn. Tom Ford is now selling pleated suit trousers. If you're talking about lounge suits in general, turn ups are okay (and again have been worn by almost every Bond), and belt loops are technically fine too on a suit, though side adjusters or braces are preferable.
While you're right that dinner suit trousers should not have turn ups, pleats are perfectly acceptable. Daniel Craig's dinner suit in Casino Royale had reverse pleats. Connery always wore pleats in the 1960s, and Dalton and Brosnan also wore pleated trousers with their dinner suit. For a non-James Bond example look at Cary Grant or Fred Astaire.