I believe all that about the Goldfinger suit, not having paid much attention to the suit proper, but do recall writers saying it literally was based on the pattern for the Goldfinger suit.
Regarding Craig's suit, though, tailors I spoke to in the day said it was always harder to fit a suit for a man with a bulky, muscular frame. The body literally is more lumpy than someone with a more slender frame -- say Brosnan, for instance. That's one of the reasons looser suits are usually prescribed for such a body type, and one of the reasons clothes were so bulky in the 80s, as the male body type desired was closer to Stallone and Schwarzenegger. When that person moves and the suit is buttoned, it will wrinkle quite a bit.
But it really is fashion-forward today for the suit to be tight to the point of wrinkling, even while standing still, at least among young people. The styles today are, in their own way, as off-putting and ironic as they were in the 1970s. Nerd glasses, loud, clashing patterns and colors, "too small" fit and style. It's not athletic or tapered but literally shrunk-looking. That's among those who consider themselves quite fashionable. For someone more conservative, as with the 1970s, more traditional colors and fits are available, though adapted to the current overall stylings. Tom Ford, and I'm assuming with Daniel Craig's input, is trying to make Bond seem more cutting edge than conservative, as he has generally been presented in the past.
I like a fitted suit. I was, for a long time, slender but muscular but not bulky. The fitted suit was exactly what I should wear, but it wasn't in style at the time. Now that it is, unfortunately, I have something of a spare tire that men get, especially as they creep toward their 50s. I'm losing it steadily but not without considerable effort. But Craig is built more like an action figure, and unless he stands still, the suit wrinkles.
The patterns for Connery's suits were lost many years ago, at least as far back as when Anthony Sinclair shut down in the 80s. The CR suit has a completely different cut from Connery's suits (I can explain in great detail if necessary), so writers saying the CR suit was based on the GF suit probably all got their information from the same incorrect source, or something was exaggerated along the way. Besides, a pattern for Connery's suit would be completely useless for anyone else who isn't exactly the same size and build, and Daniel Craig is considerably smaller than Connery.
Tom Ford is not the one pushing for the tight suits, it is Craig and Jany Temime. Tom Ford likes his suits to be trim, but he doesn't like suits to look like they are too small and thinks they look like they are trying to cut costs. This is something he said before Skyfall, so he may have changed his mind, but since his own suits apart from the Bond suits don't follow this, I'd still assume he prefers properly-fitted styles.
Suits will always wrinkle when moving (that's perfectly acceptable since it can't be avoided), but Craig's Skyfall suits wrinkle when he buttons them whilst standing straight. Because most fashion designers don't want to put in the effort to make their slim suits fit properly, that's why we have poor-fitting suits in adverts.
One last thing I'll say. Though Craig is arguably an inch or two taller than me, we are similar physically in a lot of ways. We walk similarly and share some other habits of movement. When Casino Royale came out, my best friend said that except for the blond hair, Craig and I could be mistaken from behind, especially in the scene where he walks up to the Aston Martin at the hotel. I, too, was shocked at how much Craig's movements and posture were like mine. He is more muscular than I am, but I also have wide shoulders for someone my size. I recall getting jackets tailored back in the day and because of the shoulder-to-waist ratio, it was tough for tailors to get the fit across the chest and abdomen so it didn't bunch up. And I bought expensive suits and worked with some of the better tailors in the area. I remember asking one of them if I should just have the suits custom made, and he told me I would essentially have the same problem. It wasn't a matter of the tailoring but of the body type, as I tapered not just from shoulders to wait but from chest to stomach. Add in Craig's additional bulk, and I can see how it would be a problem. I'm curious, too, as to whether Craig's suit fabrics have a little stretchable fabric in them.
Though Craig's suits have problems in SF, the suits in QoS fit very closesly and don't have the same fit problems, so there is no excuse for the suits in SF. I can certainly understand why your tailor couldn't fit a ready-to-wear suit to your athletic body. And I can also see how you may have the same problems in a made-to-measure suit. But you should not have had these problems in a bespoke suit. You may need extra padding in places to fill in crevices, but bespoke tailors should be able to fit a suit to Daniel Craig.
I believe all that about the Goldfinger suit, not having paid much attention to the suit proper, but do recall writers saying it literally was based on the pattern for the Goldfinger suit.
Regarding Craig's suit, though, tailors I spoke to in the day said it was always harder to fit a suit for a man with a bulky, muscular frame. The body literally is more lumpy than someone with a more slender frame -- say Brosnan, for instance. That's one of the reasons looser suits are usually prescribed for such a body type, and one of the reasons clothes were so bulky in the 80s, as the male body type desired was closer to Stallone and Schwarzenegger. When that person moves and the suit is buttoned, it will wrinkle quite a bit.
But it really is fashion-forward today for the suit to be tight to the point of wrinkling, even while standing still, at least among young people. The styles today are, in their own way, as off-putting and ironic as they were in the 1970s. Nerd glasses, loud, clashing patterns and colors, "too small" fit and style. It's not athletic or tapered but literally shrunk-looking. That's among those who consider themselves quite fashionable. For someone more conservative, as with the 1970s, more traditional colors and fits are available, though adapted to the current overall stylings. Tom Ford, and I'm assuming with Daniel Craig's input, is trying to make Bond seem more cutting edge than conservative, as he has generally been presented in the past.
I like a fitted suit. I was, for a long time, slender but muscular but not bulky. The fitted suit was exactly what I should wear, but it wasn't in style at the time. Now that it is, unfortunately, I have something of a spare tire that men get, especially as they creep toward their 50s. I'm losing it steadily but not without considerable effort. But Craig is built more like an action figure, and unless he stands still, the suit wrinkles.
The patterns for Connery's suits were lost many years ago, at least as far back as when Anthony Sinclair shut down in the 80s. The CR suit has a completely different cut from Connery's suits (I can explain in great detail if necessary), so writers saying the CR suit was based on the GF suit probably all got their information from the same incorrect source, or something was exaggerated along the way. Besides, a pattern for Connery's suit would be completely useless for anyone else who isn't exactly the same size and build, and Daniel Craig is considerably smaller than Connery.
Tom Ford is not the one pushing for the tight suits, it is Craig and Jany Temime. Tom Ford likes his suits to be trim, but he doesn't like suits to look like they are too small and thinks they look like they are trying to cut costs. This is something he said before Skyfall, so he may have changed his mind, but since his own suits apart from the Bond suits don't follow this, I'd still assume he prefers properly-fitted styles.
Suits will always wrinkle when moving (that's perfectly acceptable since it can't be avoided), but Craig's Skyfall suits wrinkle when he buttons them whilst standing straight. Because most fashion designers don't want to put in the effort to make their slim suits fit properly, that's why we have poor-fitting suits in adverts.
One last thing I'll say. Though Craig is arguably an inch or two taller than me, we are similar physically in a lot of ways. We walk similarly and share some other habits of movement. When Casino Royale came out, my best friend said that except for the blond hair, Craig and I could be mistaken from behind, especially in the scene where he walks up to the Aston Martin at the hotel. I, too, was shocked at how much Craig's movements and posture were like mine. He is more muscular than I am, but I also have wide shoulders for someone my size. I recall getting jackets tailored back in the day and because of the shoulder-to-waist ratio, it was tough for tailors to get the fit across the chest and abdomen so it didn't bunch up. And I bought expensive suits and worked with some of the better tailors in the area. I remember asking one of them if I should just have the suits custom made, and he told me I would essentially have the same problem. It wasn't a matter of the tailoring but of the body type, as I tapered not just from shoulders to wait but from chest to stomach. Add in Craig's additional bulk, and I can see how it would be a problem. I'm curious, too, as to whether Craig's suit fabrics have a little stretchable fabric in them.
Though Craig's suits have problems in SF, the suits in QoS fit very closesly and don't have the same fit problems, so there is no excuse for the suits in SF. I can certainly understand why your tailor couldn't fit a ready-to-wear suit to your athletic body. And I can also see how you may have the same problems in a made-to-measure suit. But you should not have had these problems in a bespoke suit. You may need extra padding in places to fill in crevices, but bespoke tailors should be able to fit a suit to Daniel Craig.
The cuts are different though between the suits in Quantum of Solace and Skyfall -- definitely much looser and more to what would have been common in 2008. But the suits have definitely gotten tighter in the intervening years. That tightness is going to make things crease and wrinkle more.
I do think Craig and whoever he is working with believes he is being fashion forward with the ultra-tight suit. Even the Tom Ford collection in 2015, though, shows the suits fitting similarly; here is the designer himself sporting one of his suits:
While the trousers are definitely baggier -- and Ford doesn't seem to have Craig's more muscular body type -- the jacket fits similar to Craig's.
Although Craig's suits in SF were borderline hideous in photographs, I never got that impression from the movie. Perhaps because the chest and shoulders fit very well and 95% of the shots of Craig are close up/medium shot/three-quarter shot where you don't see below the waist.
And I've often thought that the suits had some sort of stretchable fabric added in some key spots. )
I believe all that about the Goldfinger suit, not having paid much attention to the suit proper, but do recall writers saying it literally was based on the pattern for the Goldfinger suit.
Regarding Craig's suit, though, tailors I spoke to in the day said it was always harder to fit a suit for a man with a bulky, muscular frame. The body literally is more lumpy than someone with a more slender frame -- say Brosnan, for instance. That's one of the reasons looser suits are usually prescribed for such a body type, and one of the reasons clothes were so bulky in the 80s, as the male body type desired was closer to Stallone and Schwarzenegger. When that person moves and the suit is buttoned, it will wrinkle quite a bit.
But it really is fashion-forward today for the suit to be tight to the point of wrinkling, even while standing still, at least among young people. The styles today are, in their own way, as off-putting and ironic as they were in the 1970s. Nerd glasses, loud, clashing patterns and colors, "too small" fit and style. It's not athletic or tapered but literally shrunk-looking. That's among those who consider themselves quite fashionable. For someone more conservative, as with the 1970s, more traditional colors and fits are available, though adapted to the current overall stylings. Tom Ford, and I'm assuming with Daniel Craig's input, is trying to make Bond seem more cutting edge than conservative, as he has generally been presented in the past.
I like a fitted suit. I was, for a long time, slender but muscular but not bulky. The fitted suit was exactly what I should wear, but it wasn't in style at the time. Now that it is, unfortunately, I have something of a spare tire that men get, especially as they creep toward their 50s. I'm losing it steadily but not without considerable effort. But Craig is built more like an action figure, and unless he stands still, the suit wrinkles.
The patterns for Connery's suits were lost many years ago, at least as far back as when Anthony Sinclair shut down in the 80s. The CR suit has a completely different cut from Connery's suits (I can explain in great detail if necessary), so writers saying the CR suit was based on the GF suit probably all got their information from the same incorrect source, or something was exaggerated along the way. Besides, a pattern for Connery's suit would be completely useless for anyone else who isn't exactly the same size and build, and Daniel Craig is considerably smaller than Connery.
Tom Ford is not the one pushing for the tight suits, it is Craig and Jany Temime. Tom Ford likes his suits to be trim, but he doesn't like suits to look like they are too small and thinks they look like they are trying to cut costs. This is something he said before Skyfall, so he may have changed his mind, but since his own suits apart from the Bond suits don't follow this, I'd still assume he prefers properly-fitted styles.
Suits will always wrinkle when moving (that's perfectly acceptable since it can't be avoided), but Craig's Skyfall suits wrinkle when he buttons them whilst standing straight. Because most fashion designers don't want to put in the effort to make their slim suits fit properly, that's why we have poor-fitting suits in adverts.
One last thing I'll say. Though Craig is arguably an inch or two taller than me, we are similar physically in a lot of ways. We walk similarly and share some other habits of movement. When Casino Royale came out, my best friend said that except for the blond hair, Craig and I could be mistaken from behind, especially in the scene where he walks up to the Aston Martin at the hotel. I, too, was shocked at how much Craig's movements and posture were like mine. He is more muscular than I am, but I also have wide shoulders for someone my size. I recall getting jackets tailored back in the day and because of the shoulder-to-waist ratio, it was tough for tailors to get the fit across the chest and abdomen so it didn't bunch up. And I bought expensive suits and worked with some of the better tailors in the area. I remember asking one of them if I should just have the suits custom made, and he told me I would essentially have the same problem. It wasn't a matter of the tailoring but of the body type, as I tapered not just from shoulders to wait but from chest to stomach. Add in Craig's additional bulk, and I can see how it would be a problem. I'm curious, too, as to whether Craig's suit fabrics have a little stretchable fabric in them.
Though Craig's suits have problems in SF, the suits in QoS fit very closesly and don't have the same fit problems, so there is no excuse for the suits in SF. I can certainly understand why your tailor couldn't fit a ready-to-wear suit to your athletic body. And I can also see how you may have the same problems in a made-to-measure suit. But you should not have had these problems in a bespoke suit. You may need extra padding in places to fill in crevices, but bespoke tailors should be able to fit a suit to Daniel Craig.
The cuts are different though between the suits in Quantum of Solace and Skyfall -- definitely much looser and more to what would have been common in 2008. But the suits have definitely gotten tighter in the intervening years. That tightness is going to make things crease and wrinkle more.
Craig's suits certainly have gotten tighter, but my point is that the suits in QoS were already tight, and someone with Daniel Craig's physique can wear a tight suit and have it fit well. I honestly will never see the point in something tighter than skin tight.
That's the first I've seen Tom Ford wearing something too small for him. I listened to him talk about what a perfectionist he is, and now I wonder what his excuse is for this.
It's the way men's fashion has gone. I don't care for the ultra-tight look either (though I was initially happy to see the fitted suit come back), and like I said, not all styles are for everyone. Now that the Bond films are "A films" again, they're working hard to be cutting edge in some way, and I suppose the thought is that they are so fashionwise. To the Millennial and younger generation, the ultra-tight suit is the right look, mostly because it's current, and that's who the Bond films are mostly aimed at, even though to a Gen-Xer like myself, the extra tight suits vacillate between looking quite appropriate and looking silly.
But it really is fashion-forward today for the suit to be tight to the point of wrinkling, even while standing still, at least among young people. The styles today are, in their own way, as off-putting and ironic as they were in the 1970s. Nerd glasses, loud, clashing patterns and colors, "too small" fit and style. It's not athletic or tapered but literally shrunk-looking. That's among those who consider themselves quite fashionable. For someone more conservative, as with the 1970s, more traditional colors and fits are available, though adapted to the current overall stylings. Tom Ford, and I'm assuming with Daniel Craig's input, is trying to make Bond seem more cutting edge than conservative, as he has generally been presented in the past.
It's as simple as that. I get the point people are making that a well-tailored suit should be able fit tight without wrinkling, but like Gassy man says, the contemporary look for young people is that suits fit tight EVEN to the point of wrinkling. Bond's suits in SF are cutting edge while still evoking the classic Connery look. I'm probably biased as a young person who prefers the tight to the point of wrinkling look, but in the end it's all a matter of taste. Seems to me that most of the arguments that tight suits that wrinkle are empirically poorly fit don't really hold up in light of the contemporary fashion trends.
Bond's suits in SF are cutting edge while still evoking the classic Connery look.
Can you explain how the SF suits evoke the Connery look? Connery's suits are full-cut and have a considerably different style. The first two suits have similar cloths to what Connery wore, but Craig wears them so much differently.
Bond's suits in SF are cutting edge while still evoking the classic Connery look.
Can you explain how the SF suits evoke the Connery look? Connery's suits are full-cut and have a considerably different style. The first two suits have similar cloths to what Connery wore, but Craig wears them so much differently.
I dunno, the shirt collars and skinny, solid color ties and the colors of the suits I guess. I just know that when I first saw SF my immediate thought on the suits was that they reminded me of the Connery era.
Just wanna add, seems to me that we've pretty much exhausted this argument about the SF suits. I take full responsibility as I think my comment spurred the argument in the first place, but I think that even if we continue to stray from the original premise of the post, there are plenty of other things we can discuss about Bond's wardrobe over the years in general.
Just wanna add, seems to me that we've pretty much exhausted this argument about the SF suits. I take full responsibility as I think my comment spurred the argument in the first place, but I think that even if we continue to stray from the original premise of the post, there are plenty of other things we can discuss about Bond's wardrobe over the years in general.
For what it's worth, I think you're correct in that they wanted to invoke the 1960s Bond styles but with the update to the ultra tight look. Certainly, the thin ties and white pocket squares are right out of the period, and the color of the gray suit in particular harkens back to the early Bond films -- the combination much more so than in any Bond film we've seen since the period. Even the display of Connery from Goldfinger wearing a copy of the iconic suit and next to the Aston Martin is similar to the publicity shot of Craig in the gray suit and next to the same car.
Bond's suits in SF are cutting edge while still evoking the classic Connery look.
Can you explain how the SF suits evoke the Connery look? Connery's suits are full-cut and have a considerably different style. The first two suits have similar cloths to what Connery wore, but Craig wears them so much differently.
I dunno, the shirt collars and skinny, solid color ties and the colors of the suits I guess. I just know that when I first saw SF my immediate thought on the suits was that they reminded me of the Connery era.
But the shirt collars are the complete opposite of what Connery wore, and Craig's ties are not solid colours.
The Aston Martin pose, however, definitely evokes Connery. But as Jany Temime said, she wanted Bond to look very 2012. Connery's clothes didn't even look very 1960s. They looked more late 50s than anything else.
Just wanna add, seems to me that we've pretty much exhausted this argument about the SF suits. I take full responsibility as I think my comment spurred the argument in the first place, but I think that even if we continue to stray from the original premise of the post, there are plenty of other things we can discuss about Bond's wardrobe over the years in general.
For what it's worth, I think you're correct in that they wanted to invoke the 1960s Bond styles but with the update to the ultra tight look. Certainly, the thin ties and white pocket squares are right out of the period, and the color of the gray suit in particular harkens back to the early Bond films -- the combination much more so than in any Bond film we've seen since the period. Even the display of Connery from Goldfinger wearing a copy of the iconic suit and next to the Aston Martin is similar to the publicity shot of Craig in the gray suit and next to the same car.
I thought the same thing as well, regardless of fit I think he looked very 60's throwback in SF.
Actually, the Skyfall suits are closest to Lazenby's suits. Those have a much stronger 1960s look than Connery's suits do since Lazenby's suits have a much trimmer cut.
Lazenby does not wear the white pocket square and the lapels are wider. Nothing in Skyfall is an exact copy, but I'd still say they're meant most to evoke the early Connery era.
Lazenby does not wear the white pocket square and the lapels are wider. Nothing in Skyfall is an exact copy, but I'd still say they're meant most to evoke the early Connery era.
Yes, there is no pocket square and the lapels are a little wider in OHMSS, but the cut is the most similar. Lazenby's jackets had a slim and slightly shorter cut, and his trousers didn't have pleats. Connery's suits had a much fuller cut and the trousers had forward pleats. Lazenby also wore narrower collars like Craig. I look at the whole rather than the parts. There's a lot more to a suit than the lapel width.
Sure, but the details that many if not most people will light upon are the tie, color, lapels, and pocket square. I'd argue that the white pocket square alone puts them closer to Connery. As before, none of the suits in Skyfall are an exact copy to anything, but in terms of flavor, definitely the Connery era.
Sure, but the details that many if not most people will light upon are the tie, color, lapels, and pocket square. I'd argue that the white pocket square alone puts them closer to Connery. As before, none of the suits in Skyfall are an exact copy to anything, but in terms of flavor, definitely the Connery era.
Okay, I'll give you that. I happen to look at the cut of a suit first, and the cuts of Craig's and Connery's suits are extremely different. I wonder how many people see how similar Moore's suits in TSWLM and MR are to Brioni suits, or how similar some of the suits in TLD are to Connery's suits.
Comments
The patterns for Connery's suits were lost many years ago, at least as far back as when Anthony Sinclair shut down in the 80s. The CR suit has a completely different cut from Connery's suits (I can explain in great detail if necessary), so writers saying the CR suit was based on the GF suit probably all got their information from the same incorrect source, or something was exaggerated along the way. Besides, a pattern for Connery's suit would be completely useless for anyone else who isn't exactly the same size and build, and Daniel Craig is considerably smaller than Connery.
Tom Ford is not the one pushing for the tight suits, it is Craig and Jany Temime. Tom Ford likes his suits to be trim, but he doesn't like suits to look like they are too small and thinks they look like they are trying to cut costs. This is something he said before Skyfall, so he may have changed his mind, but since his own suits apart from the Bond suits don't follow this, I'd still assume he prefers properly-fitted styles.
Suits will always wrinkle when moving (that's perfectly acceptable since it can't be avoided), but Craig's Skyfall suits wrinkle when he buttons them whilst standing straight. Because most fashion designers don't want to put in the effort to make their slim suits fit properly, that's why we have poor-fitting suits in adverts.
Though Craig's suits have problems in SF, the suits in QoS fit very closesly and don't have the same fit problems, so there is no excuse for the suits in SF. I can certainly understand why your tailor couldn't fit a ready-to-wear suit to your athletic body. And I can also see how you may have the same problems in a made-to-measure suit. But you should not have had these problems in a bespoke suit. You may need extra padding in places to fill in crevices, but bespoke tailors should be able to fit a suit to Daniel Craig.
I do think Craig and whoever he is working with believes he is being fashion forward with the ultra-tight suit. Even the Tom Ford collection in 2015, though, shows the suits fitting similarly; here is the designer himself sporting one of his suits:
While the trousers are definitely baggier -- and Ford doesn't seem to have Craig's more muscular body type -- the jacket fits similar to Craig's.
And I've often thought that the suits had some sort of stretchable fabric added in some key spots.
Craig's suits certainly have gotten tighter, but my point is that the suits in QoS were already tight, and someone with Daniel Craig's physique can wear a tight suit and have it fit well. I honestly will never see the point in something tighter than skin tight.
That's the first I've seen Tom Ford wearing something too small for him. I listened to him talk about what a perfectionist he is, and now I wonder what his excuse is for this.
It's as simple as that. I get the point people are making that a well-tailored suit should be able fit tight without wrinkling, but like Gassy man says, the contemporary look for young people is that suits fit tight EVEN to the point of wrinkling. Bond's suits in SF are cutting edge while still evoking the classic Connery look. I'm probably biased as a young person who prefers the tight to the point of wrinkling look, but in the end it's all a matter of taste. Seems to me that most of the arguments that tight suits that wrinkle are empirically poorly fit don't really hold up in light of the contemporary fashion trends.
https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/wish-i-was-at-disneyland/id1202780413?mt=2
Can you explain how the SF suits evoke the Connery look? Connery's suits are full-cut and have a considerably different style. The first two suits have similar cloths to what Connery wore, but Craig wears them so much differently.
I dunno, the shirt collars and skinny, solid color ties and the colors of the suits I guess. I just know that when I first saw SF my immediate thought on the suits was that they reminded me of the Connery era.
https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/wish-i-was-at-disneyland/id1202780413?mt=2
https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/wish-i-was-at-disneyland/id1202780413?mt=2
But the shirt collars are the complete opposite of what Connery wore, and Craig's ties are not solid colours.
The Aston Martin pose, however, definitely evokes Connery. But as Jany Temime said, she wanted Bond to look very 2012. Connery's clothes didn't even look very 1960s. They looked more late 50s than anything else.
Yes, there is no pocket square and the lapels are a little wider in OHMSS, but the cut is the most similar. Lazenby's jackets had a slim and slightly shorter cut, and his trousers didn't have pleats. Connery's suits had a much fuller cut and the trousers had forward pleats. Lazenby also wore narrower collars like Craig. I look at the whole rather than the parts. There's a lot more to a suit than the lapel width.
Okay, I'll give you that. I happen to look at the cut of a suit first, and the cuts of Craig's and Connery's suits are extremely different. I wonder how many people see how similar Moore's suits in TSWLM and MR are to Brioni suits, or how similar some of the suits in TLD are to Connery's suits.